Hey all,

After sitting for about 7 years, finally got the 81 300SD on the road. All of the windows would roll down (front passenger is off track but tries to roll down) until recently. I used the front driverside and rear passenger the most. After parking it for a few hours, both of those windows stopped working.

I tested the switch by plugging in the rear driver's side cable to the front and it rolled down without a problem.

It's very strange that both of the windows that I used more frequently quit on me all of a sudden (or maybe it's not?). If the switches are good, should I be looking into replacing the motors or has something gone wrong with the wiring?

Thanks for your input.

Since both failed at the same time, look for a common fuse that failed. There is a cover on the firewall inside the engine compartment. Slightly different in an SD than my 300D.

Find fuse "b" in the fusebox and replace it. Clean the brass contact points.

Correct, the fuses cover diagonal opposites on these cars.

Fuse b operates driver front and passenger rear
Fuse a operates passenger front and driver rear

Inspect the fuses carefully, sometimes they develop hair line cracks and don't pass even though they look good.

And make sure the fuses are ceramic and copper. If you need some click on the parts link above, this site sells the right kind. It is good practice to re-fuse the entire box as preventative maintenance if the fuses have any significant age on them.

When cleaning the brass points on the fuse block use no abrasives. Use Brasso or Tarn-x on a q-tip and be sure to remove all residue with a clean q-tip dampened with water and dry thoroughly. If you abrade the contact points you will remove the plating and be left with a worse problem in a few months.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

AFAIK, the 126 has no "g" or "h" fuses.

You are right, I saw his user name 300SD90 and thought that he had a 90 SD which is like the 124 electrically. The 81 SD is like a 123 electrically and they only had the a-d fuses.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

You might want to delete post #4 to prevent confusion.

Didn't even think it'd be a fuse problem since I figured there would be one fuse for the windows or a fuse for the front and back, not diagonally. I'll definitely check that out.

Speaking of fuses, dash lights do not come on and fuse 15 (I think) keeps blowing every time I put one in. It's shorting out somewhere obviously. Any known issues that I should look for first?

If Your Fuse Chart is in the Lid of the Fuse Box what all does that Fuse Cover?

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

F15 provides power to:

Trunk Light
Power Seats
Warning System
Courtesy Lights
Automatic Antenna
Anti-Theft Alarm

The most suspicious is the automatic antenna. The grommet deteriates and water runs down into the works. Try unplugging it and see if there is a change.

The failed dash lights is either the bulbs or the rheostat. Sometimes just working the rheostat back and forth a little will clear the slight corrosion and get them to come on.

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Okay, I also have jumping gauges. The brake light is on but is intermittent. Most of the time the fuel gauge is at "R" and the oil pressure and temp gauges are erratic.

Loose wiring? Corrosion? I'm wondering if this is part of the dash light issue...

that are erratic find ground on a buss behind the instrument panel. Pull your gauge cluster and it is right there in front of you. Try clip leading the ground block to a good chassis ground point and see if it clears up most of your electrical issues. If it does, then simply imrove the quality of that ground block and you will be good to go.