turbo R&R options
 

hi folks, i have a garrett turbo (T3, right?) on my '85 CA engine, with an apparent internal oil leak. i can't leave my car out of commission for weeks on end so i am thinking about buying a rebuilt one and then sending the old one in as a core. i don't mind being out a few hundred dollars for the duration as long as i can swap the new one in during a single session.

Q 1: does anyone know a business that will make this kind of deal with me?

Q 2: is there a different turbocharger that i should consider getting?

Most have the Garrett/Air Research Turbo but some have KKK Turbochargers.
So it would be a good idea to make a Good ID First.

At least for the Garrett in SF, CA, USA there should be Turbo Shops where You can get an exchange or the might even be able to rebuild the one you have in a Day; but You need to ask.

Another option is to buy what is called a Cartridge Assembly. That is the Bearing Housing and the Turbine and Compressor Wheels all assembled and rebuilt.

But, to exchange that you need to remove the Exhaust and Compressor Housing.
Sometimes the Bolts on the Exhaust Housing can be frozen in to the extent that sometimes they break off when you try to remove the. So that is something to think about.

If you buy a complete rebuilt Tubo You get a warranty.

If you get the Cartridge Assembly You also get a Warranty but they might try to claim you assembled the Turbo Wrong.

G Pop Shop in Arkansas does some decent work according to many of the forums; however, you will have to send them a rebuildable core ... Not sure anyone has a loaner core program ...

I'd be inclined to just go to a junkyard and grab one. It should cost about $90 unless you luck out and find a half-price weekend to your liking. Turbos are generally pretty bulletproof and you can check out the critical stuff right in the yard before you buy it - stuff like the compressor and exhaust turbine vanes, the shaft play and overall condition of the unit. You can also get a warranty for $27 if you feel you need that for comfort. Pulling one at the yard would give you practice in pulling it and give you first hand experience of what to expect.

X2, get one from PNP, the turbo`s are long lived and there are plenty of them that go to the crusher. any 300D or 300SD should work.
They all have some up and down play, forward to rear isn`t good.

300D 82 - 83 will work.
300SD 81 - 83 will work.

300D 84 - 85 have the ARV valve on the front
300SD the same.

There is also the 78 - 80 W116 300SD.

Charlie

If you can pull it off the car, you have the mechanical abilities to rebuild it. I have a series of videos on how to rebuild a similar turbo. The turbo I am rebuilding is a few times larger, though.


Banks Sidewinder TE06H Rebuild Part 1 - YouTube

Do You have specific information on the Bearing clearances, Torques and the spec on the Ring Groove area of the Exhaust Turbine on the Garrett T 3?
Stuff the OP would need to know to tell the Turbo needs more than just New Bearings and Seals.

No, I go off of feel and what looks right. If the ring groove is deformed or defaced, the shaft should be replaced. Most of the time, a turbo rebuild does not require replacement of major components. If the owner knows the turbo has been abused, then more work may be required.

The rebuild is for a TE06H turbo. The T3 should be very similar if not exactly the same. I posted the video for demonstration purposes only. I'm not trying to get scientific here. Replacing the seals and bearings on a turbo is not rocket science.

well thank you all for the feedback! i see i have several options, and i am willing to get my hands dirty, but once again i need to minimize the downtime. my car is parked on the street.

i had a look for turbo shops and they are all out in the suburbs - where the junkyards are too. i always assumed that shipping one would be cost-prohibitive...

pulling one would be kind of fun, but i am troubled by the idea that they are bulletproof. how can i avoid buying one with the same leaky seal inside? also, maybe i should prefer a KKK because of its easier boost adjustment?

Don't mess with a KKK, get a Garett. Go to the PNP and get a turbo that has good turbines and no end play and rebuild it with a kit off eBay or wherever - should cost $60 give or take.. That way you know it's good and you'll minimize downtime and cost...and probably have some fun in the process!

Heck get two rebuild kits and rebuild yours when you take it off and sell it to finance your replacement.

OK, but what about the difficulty in balancing the rebuilt turbo? several people have told me that needs to be handled by a professional.

if rebuilding one really is so easy, then perhaps someone on this forum would want to do it for me....? i'm stressing out about the beginning of the semester and my workbench is already covered in parts.

Just grab one at the PNP and install it...quit stressing. Check the end play and inspect the turbine vanes for any sign of damage. You'll be just fine.

Balancing depends if the turbo's wheels were balanced independently or as a set. I go over that in my turbo rebuild video. I marked both wheels before dis-assembly so that I could put them back in the same position they were initially. Torquing the wheels is important as well. In the process of torquing them, the balance marks move and you have to compensate for that.

If you buy the rebuild kit, ship me the turbo + kit and pay a small fee for my time, I would take on the job. I'm actually interested in making videos of the rebuild process for T3 and KKK units. I have a spare T3 but lack the kit and motivation to mess with it when I have so many other projects to do. Paying customers come first, though. Ask any of my injector rebuild customers.

Exactly. If the end play is almost non-existent and the turbine and impellers are in good shape, slap that sucker on and drive. Easy and quick solution. Most turbos I see are in good condition.

I beg to differ, if i had the choice between the two, I'd get the KKK. In my opinion the K26 triple K turbo is the best sized turbo for the stock 617. It will spool much faster than the Garrett TA03 which would result in better low end power and faster acceleration.





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The Garretts should be component balanced, so rebuilding your self should not be a problem. But if you want a professional to rebuild it, I recommend Performance Techniques in San Bernardino.

Performance Techniques - Turbo, Turbos, and Turbochargers - For all your turbo needs!


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i pulled another garrett this afternoon from a 126 in oakland. it was pretty difficult to reach some of the nuts. maybe crows-feet would have helped. i saw no damage to the impellers on either side, and there is no play in the shaft. a little plate is attached on one side saying it was already rebuilt at some point. i will let you all know how it goes.... thanks for the help!!

If you didn't get the turbo from another Cali, you are going to have "clock" it.
And if you didn't get a Cali, Did you happen get a Garrett without an ARV?


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a garrett, neither cali nor ARV: it's from an '82 300SD:
http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/WDBCB20A8CB032147

pardon my french, but what the hell is clocking it?

That is when you turn the compressor or turbine side of the unit to match up with the mounting configuration of the manifolds.

The most common thing to do is to use a Center Punch and mark both sides (match mark) of where the Exhaust and Compressor Housings come together so they go back in the and you don't have to fool rotating the Housings after the Turbo is assembled.

Sounds Good.. hopefully the housing won't be too fused together and have positioning pins to make it difficult to clock. You may have to hit it hard with a hammer to break it loose on the turbine side. Some videos of clocking.

How to clock your turbo - YouTube

How to Clock a Turbo - by TurboKits.com - YouTube



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No Pins to line up the Exhaust and Compressor Housing

I would suggest getting the turbine side lined up and removing the compressor housing before you clock it. If you start rotating it with a gasket that has been on it or 30 ears, you will probably destroy the gasket/o-ring. Best method after rebuilding is to use a new gasket/o-ring that has been lubricated and then you can clock the compressor housing. With the TE06H, there is a C-clip that you have to remove first before you can clock the compressor housing. Being that you are installing a turbo that may be from an earlier car, marking the CRH and the compressor housing may not help at all if you have to clock it to fit it.

The KKK turbo has several brackets that are bolted on to torque the compressor housing. Clocking is easier with that kind of setup. I'm not sure about the T3. I would have to look at mine again.

I figured there is no pins, but I've seen them before on another turbo which makes clocking difficult. So if the turbine housing is not heavily corroded and fused with soot, it should be a fairly easy clock.




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Has any member installed a non cali turbo on a cali car?

right on, sounds easy enough. ordering new gaskets....

Yea; I just finished a turbo rebuild on the 300D. The T3 has 3 brackets (2 bolts each) that holds the compressor housing tightly to the center bearing housing.

here's how far i have gotten. these male bolts on the outlet flange are 4mm longer on the turbo from the cali engine (left) because an additional bracket (lying in front) is used. can i swap these bolts in any way? as is, only half the nut will engage on the threads and i don't want to try grinding every surface down to gain half millimeters. please advise.
http://www.lithic.org/tmp/SAM_1891.JPG

i am also considering reinstalling it without that bracket. the turbo wouldbe supported wholly by the test pipe and exhaust accordion (which about 4 inches back is bolted to the intake manifold).

Like I said in the other thread, I think you need this bracket. There is too much engine vibrations that leaving it off would cause issues. You will need the proper length studs.

junkyard turbo installed and working! thanks for the help, all.

Glad to hear it!