Newbie question here thanks.
 

I just bought an 83 300TD with 199,xxx miles on it. It starts and runs well, getting up to speed well, but sometimes the engine revs between shifts, like it's not wanting to engage the next gear. Also, when you apply reverse from park, there is a pretty good delay before you feel it engage. Finally, it suffers from a lumpy idle, sometimes making odd thumps, like a misfire in a gasser would sound and feel like.

It starts immediately, even after sitting a week or more, and smokes only slightly on cold start after sitting a bit, once warm the exhaust exhibits no visible smoke at idle, if revved there's a small hardly noticeable puff of black, I can see no smoke when driving no matter how hard I load the engine.

Potentially relevant known issues:
1) air cleaner was just rattling loosely attached to the turbo, this have been corrected with new bracket, rubber bushings, heat shields, and rubber seals on the U shaped plastic pipe at both the air cleaner and the turbo, so it is tight now but who knows how long it was run this way.
2) The primary filter, looks nothing like the ones I see in pictures. It's not clear, and it appears to be the small brass type thing, it's very odd. I have not idea, when the fuel filters were changed. The primer pump has this strange plastic thing on top the looks like a big hex nut.
3) the engine mounts are obviously crushed to ruin, the engine actually appears low in the bay, and appears slight out of line (not perfectly straight nose to firewall).
4) the temp gauge seems to run right at what looks to be 90 C, and climbs to what appears to be 100-110 C, when loaded on a long grade. Both seem high to me. When coasting down a hill, the temp drops to just above the 80 C mark.

Any insight much appreciated.

Typical neglected car....can't really give advice but to start the process of fixing the neglect....new fuel filters, new primer pump....valve adjustment....coolant flush, new fan clutch....oil change, o ring replacement....transmission service, new shifter bushings, fix vacuum leaks, check dowden cable...new motor mounts ASAP!!!.....just start going down the list and replacing parts....no easy fix for the issues, beside a few weekends of wrenching....and maybe 500$ in parts...

Bingo to cooljjay, and I'll correct that to Bowden cable ;).

crazy4diesel: Where do you live? A local member might be able to provide help/advice. If you live near me I'll borrow you my valve adjustment wrenches and give you a valve cover gasket (I have spares).

Sweet what's the prize :P

take pics of the filters, and the car and post them here.

a fluid and filter change could help your transmission flare. drain the torque converter too. there is a drain plug in it for this!

the shaking should be smoothed out considerably with a set of LEMFORDER motor mounts...
it's good you mounted the air cleaner, but the U tube needs soft seals in it, so check them, and replace if hardened, or damaged.

as for the misfire feeling, it could be air from leaking seals on the fuel filters etc, or it could be weak injectors (check with member Greazzer on here for tuning them) but first thing on that front should be the valve adjustment. it's really simple to do with the right tools.

oh, and Welcome to the forum!

Wow, that's incredible, what a great offer. I wish I could take you up on it, I'm in the Los Angeles area though.

Yeah, I kinda figured there would be some deferred maintenance and some "handy man" special fixes to deal with. My first clue was the air cleaner rattling around. When I went to fix that I discovered the bracket had been replaced once before, but because they didn't want to move the turbo oil feed line, then cut the rear part of the bracket off, so it would fit under the line, I guess thinking 2 of the mounting points would be plenty. I couldn't understand it really, the oil feed line was the easiest part of the job IMO.

I don't mind the work, and some parts, I do just hope to learn enough from those who are experienced to avoid pitfalls, and help figure out what to replace.

Thanks

Thanks, I did do both those rubber seals, the one at the turbo was so hard I hard to take it out in pieces.

I'll get some pics up tonight of the oddball filter, I've seen the clear one before, so I'm kind of confused by what I see on this car.

I think the first step is the valve adjustment, have to find those special wenches it looks like. Followed by a serious steam clean of the engine, and chassis. Then fluids, and motor mounts...would it be worth while to just pull the engine?

If you're up to the task of puling the engine and have the equipment, I think it might be worth considering. If you've got everything out in the open its really easy to do a thorough cleaning and replace stuff that can be a pain in the car. Same for the transmission - pull them together. You'll also get a chance to really clean up the engine bay too.

Most will probably take tho opposite view, but during my swap I had the engine in and out so many times I can practically do it in my sleep - 4 hrs out and 5 hrs in.

I don't think its necessary to pull the engine, you will just have more work for your self....now if the trans needs to be replaced, you might benefit from that....but just the normal maintenance items....there is no need....there's a reason they don't remove your engine to change the oil....

Do the motor mounts first!!!!!!!

If you plan to drive the car and not use it for yard art....these are a high priority as this will cause more issues....the broken air cleaner mount is an indication, the motor being crooked in the bay is another indication....the trans mount is also probably gone now...

Here's the pictures, sorry wasn't a hex nut looking thing but a raised lines on the top of the knob made it look a little like a nut.

There's one close up of the filter and one further away.

+1 on the motor mounts. If you let them go too long, the power steering belt can saw through an oil cooler line. Bad day.

After that, look to do valve adjustment and a transmission service. The special valve wrenches are available from this site. I think I paid $90 for my set, and they paid for themselves the first time I used them (vs the cost of paying someone else to do the work). Fuel filters are also a simple stupid that will cost under $20 in parts and take a half hour of your time if you go slow.

Ordered the motor mounts and the trans mount, I ordered the fuel filters, but the primary filter is totally different, from what is in the pictures I posted here. Do I just install it with new fuel line? Any ideas on what size? Couldn't find the valve wrenches on this site.

That's probably the original primary filter, just install the new one in the same direction....can't remember the line size.....simply take a piece of the old line to the auto parts store and ask for a foot of fuel rated hose that size...

Lifetime supply of WVO.