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  #1  
Old 08-27-2013, 11:02 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 61
Wagon SLS return line issue

I have a 85 300tdt Wagon with the SLS system. I just bought this wagon a few weeks ago & I am sorting out all the hack repairs the former owner did to this car. The High Pressure Hydro Line for the sls was spraying all over the place & luckily I have a parts car of the same year that I replaced it with now that works & my SLS system was working for a few days.

Now I find SLS fluid all over the ground & its leaking out of the Return line just next to the passenger side motor mount. Not that I should be surprised but the former owner evidently broke the line when they installed a different engine(that is what it looks like what happened) & they "fixed" it by slipping on some hose over the Return line & a couple clamps. Well the hose is blown open now.

On to my question: Is the Return line under high pressure? Could I use a high quality hose & clamps to fix this side?

Which Fix sounds best? (NOTE: This is the "Return Line NOT the High Pressure side)

#1: Slip hose over the broken line with clamps

#2: Purchase Cunifer lines & fittings.

#3: Have a local parts house make a flexible custom rubber line all the way to the control valve in the back

#4: Have a local parts house Make a custom line to the break point & flare it ?

Thank You in Advance for your input!

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  #2  
Old 08-27-2013, 10:57 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 591
Yes, it's still under pressure as it returns after going through the SLS valve. How and to where would the pressure dissipate??

Also,
#5- Order a metric size O.D. stainless steel coupler from Grainger to fix the break. That's what I did to repair a rusted out area in the ASD line for a 95 E300.
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  #3  
Old 08-29-2013, 07:49 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 61
I know what you mean but the rate of flow going back into the bottle does not seem to be too much.

I fixed it running new 1/4" line re-using the fitting on the bottle end & buying a 12mm 1.0 pitch threaded adapter on the other. Lucky for me there is a union by the bottom of the exhaust downpipe where I was able to disconnect so I didn't need to make a run all the way to the back. I purchased 12ft & had the brake shop make the bubble flare for me. I wish I had purchased 9ft as I had to make some loops. I will shorten it later on when I have access to a quality flaring tool. The type of line I used was like the Cunifer stuff you hear about (copper/alloy) DOT approved for brakes & Very easy to work with by hand with no worry of kinking

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