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  #1  
Old 08-24-2013, 10:11 PM
Mölyapina's Avatar
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Running into some glitches pulling the engine from my 1984 Mercedes W123 300D Turbo

Here they are:

1) On the passenger's side of the passenger compartment, there is a little thing about the size of a control arm bushing that has two line running to it, one from the coolant temperature sensor and another one from the firewall (maybe?). When I tried to take off the hose running from the temp sensor to this thing, coolant started to leak out. I quickly snugged it back on before anything more than a few drips made it out, but how do I drain my cooling system? I ask this because there is no radiator in the car and I don't know how to drain the coolant when the radiator is gone. Also, what is that thing that the hose runs to? I'll post a picture of it tomorrow.

2) I removed the three bolts holding the driveshaft to the front flex disc and backed off the monster nut on the driveshaft such that it is completely disconnected from the front half, (is the front half called the propeller shaft?), but I still can't get the front half to back up from the tranny one bit. I'm wondering if it's tuck on to the (original) flex disc and jut needs a hammer & chisel at the point where it meet the flex disc. What do you guys think?

Thanks!

-Jooseppi

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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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  #2  
Old 08-24-2013, 11:24 PM
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For the first question, there is a drain on the block. See this thread:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/185383-pics-83-300d-block-drain-plug-removal.html

Can't help with the second Q.
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
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  #3  
Old 08-24-2013, 11:40 PM
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there is a small collar on the yoke that the drive shaft mates to. sometimes you need to pry the crap out of it to get it to break free. did you mean the passenger side of the engine compartment? that may be the aux coolant pump
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  #4  
Old 08-25-2013, 03:12 AM
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Did u take the mounting bolts off the center support bearing? That should give room to pry it back. Mine didn't take much to move it back.
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84 300sd 2.47 dif 360k
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  #5  
Old 08-25-2013, 03:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
...
2) I removed the three bolts holding the driveshaft to the front flex disc and backed off the monster nut on the driveshaft such that it is completely disconnected from the front half, (is the front half called the propeller shaft?), but I still can't get the front half to back up from the tranny one bit. I'm wondering if it's tuck on to the (original) flex disc and jut needs a hammer & chisel at the point where it meet the flex disc. What do you guys think?

Thanks!

-Jooseppi
The propshaft yoke to flex disc connection can corrode. If it does they can be a bugger to get apart - especially if you are crawling about on your belly under the car.

As a last resort you might have to pry the metal parts in the flex disc away from the propshaft yoke. This will probably mean it is best to replace the flex disc - if you have to damage anything damage the flex disc and not the propshaft yoke.

When you put them back together use anti-sieze. I put my propshaft back together and then had to take it off the car about 2 weeks later and they were stuck in as bad as they were previously!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 08-25-2013, 05:48 PM
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Kroil seems to work wonders on stuck nuts and bolts.
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1985 300D 198K sold
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  #7  
Old 08-25-2013, 09:14 PM
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+1 for Kroil

On a scale of 1-10 for effectiveness

wd40 = -1
3-n-1 oil 2
PB blaster 4-6
AeroKroil 10

Whenever I am up working at vstech's he is never more than arms length reach from that little orange can.
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2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
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  #8  
Old 08-25-2013, 09:31 PM
Mölyapina's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
For the first question, there is a drain on the block. See this thread:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/185383-pics-83-300d-block-drain-plug-removal.html.
THanks for providing the link and thanks for not providing it as a LMGTFY .
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogweed View Post
did you mean the passenger side of the engine compartment? that may be the aux coolant pump
That makes sense. I did mean the passenger's-side of the engine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by benzdude42 View Post
Did u take the mounting bolts off the center support bearing? That should give room to pry it back. Mine didn't take much to move it back.
Hmm, I'm not sure what you mean. I'll post a picture of the thing tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
The propshaft yoke to flex disc connection can corrode. If it does they can be a bugger to get apart - especially if you are crawling about on your belly under the car.

As a last resort you might have to pry the metal parts in the flex disc away from the propshaft yoke. This will probably mean it is best to replace the flex disc - if you have to damage anything damage the flex disc and not the propshaft yoke.

When you put them back together use anti-sieze. I put my propshaft back together and then had to take it off the car about 2 weeks later and they were stuck in as bad as they were previously!
I don't care one bit about the flex disc -- the tranny recipient has an almost-new flex disc. In fact, I don't care about the car -- it is a parts car! I was going to get a big chisel and a big hammer and hammer the life out of the thing 'til it comes loose . My father also offered that we have a come-along that I might be able to use to pull the thing out if I can find a mounting point on the driveshaft...
Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
+1 for Kroil

On a scale of 1-10 for effectiveness

wd40 = -1
3-n-1 oil 2
PB blaster 4-6
AeroKroil 10

Whenever I am up working at vstech's he is never more than arms length reach from that little orange can.
I have Kroil, and it is always around whenever I am working on anything with rust... I have used a bunch already. I continue to be amazed by the amount of people who continue to reach for the WD-40 instead...
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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  #9  
Old 08-26-2013, 03:29 AM
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On my W201 I had to resort to disconnecting the middle propshaft joint (the big nuts) and then taking out the engine + transmission + the front half of the propshaft all in one go! Once I got the engine almost out I had more space to work on that stubborn flex disc : yoke problem.

If I was Ed China and I had a 2 post lift my life would have been made easier - sometimes there's just not enough room to work under a car on axle stands.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #10  
Old 08-26-2013, 07:18 AM
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Item #1

monovalve maybe ??
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Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
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  #11  
Old 08-26-2013, 07:45 PM
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I would remove the other three bolts from the front flex disc and beat on the disc with a hammer. Shouldn't take much to knock it off of there.
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  #12  
Old 08-26-2013, 10:04 PM
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...I am sure we all know about the 5-attachment limit...

Edit... and of course I posted this BEFORE I posted the post that the attachment is for... I blame the cat for trying to sleep on the keyboard while I try to type on it for distracting me...
Attached Thumbnails
Running into some glitches pulling the engine from my 1984 Mercedes W123 300D Turbo-aiti-023.jpg  
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Last edited by Mölyapina; 08-26-2013 at 10:07 PM. Reason: My itchy posting finger
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  #13  
Old 08-26-2013, 10:05 PM
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All right, so today I disconnected everything from the transmission -- except for, as I just realized, the shifter linkage! Bad, bad! I thought I was done with that transmission foolishness! -- and have left the following things to do:
  • One A/C line
  • A/C Condenser (I am cutting the rad support, but there is little point to that if the condenser sits there in the way )
  • Drain the block
  • Disconnect the motor mounts
  • Disconnect two remaining coolant lines
  • Clean the garage so I have room for an engine

I also have two questions -- first, I met up with JB3 and he gave me two W123 seats with good bottom cushions, a bunch of Palomino interior parts, and a cheap Harbor Freight welder (wasn't expecting that... -- THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING JOHN!!!), and he confirmed my suspicions as to where the dreaded Allen head bolts are supposed to be.

I don't appear to have those bolts. Here is what I have:

Top:


Bottom with the nut smack in the center:


Bottom with the nut in the far top left of the picture:


The bottom one appears to be a 10 MM nut instead of an Allen. I assume that this is just late-run weirdness, (my car was delivered on August 23rd, 1984), and that the pictured bolt is indeed the one that I should be undoing.

The other question is basically a cry for help as I don't know how to disconnect the shifter linkage. How do I do that? I assume that there is a nut where the linkage meets the tranny, but it looks hard to get to -- I haven't been able to see it well enough yet to determine that yet.

Other misc notes:

Here is that funny thing that I was asking about that Zacharias was suggested might be the aux coolant pump:


Two notes from this picture: first, it is a pleasure working on a parts car, as I was able to cut the PS line after it wouldn't come out, and second, I decided to disconnect the vacuum line here instead of the pump, as it seemed more accessible:


This is me & the car. I am tired .
Attached Thumbnails
Running into some glitches pulling the engine from my 1984 Mercedes W123 300D Turbo-w123-engine-tranny-removal-009.jpg   Running into some glitches pulling the engine from my 1984 Mercedes W123 300D Turbo-w123-engine-tranny-removal-010.jpg   Running into some glitches pulling the engine from my 1984 Mercedes W123 300D Turbo-w123-engine-tranny-removal-017.jpg   Running into some glitches pulling the engine from my 1984 Mercedes W123 300D Turbo-aiti-015.jpg   Running into some glitches pulling the engine from my 1984 Mercedes W123 300D Turbo-aiti-020.jpg  

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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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  #14  
Old 08-26-2013, 10:50 PM
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That first picture is your engine shock. You will have to hold it with a wrench and remove the nut from the bottom. There should be a flat spot on the shock that will allow you to grab it. Make sure that it doesn't turn while you remove the nut. As for the coolant running out of the aux. pump, just place a catch bucket under it. It will drain out eventually. You can also undo the block drain from the passenger side near the exhaust manifold.
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  #15  
Old 08-27-2013, 12:32 AM
macdoe
 
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Posts: 759
Did you find the allen head screws for the motor mount? The other mount you are refering to is an additional shock absorber for the engine. You may still need to loosen and remove the allen head screws from that engine if they have not already been removed. There are two of them. I can see the hole in the bottom of the crossmember were the allen head bolt can be removed in your first picture. They are sometimes packed with dirt and are hard to see. Make sure to clean the dirt out so that the allen head can fit the hole cleanly with no chance of stripping the allen head. It is a bugger to remove these bolts if you strip the head.

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