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#1
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Running into some glitches pulling the engine from my 1984 Mercedes W123 300D Turbo
Here they are:
1) On the passenger's side of the passenger compartment, there is a little thing about the size of a control arm bushing that has two line running to it, one from the coolant temperature sensor and another one from the firewall (maybe?). When I tried to take off the hose running from the temp sensor to this thing, coolant started to leak out. I quickly snugged it back on before anything more than a few drips made it out, but how do I drain my cooling system? I ask this because there is no radiator in the car and I don't know how to drain the coolant when the radiator is gone. Also, what is that thing that the hose runs to? I'll post a picture of it tomorrow. 2) I removed the three bolts holding the driveshaft to the front flex disc and backed off the monster nut on the driveshaft such that it is completely disconnected from the front half, (is the front half called the propeller shaft?), but I still can't get the front half to back up from the tranny one bit. I'm wondering if it's tuck on to the (original) flex disc and jut needs a hammer & chisel at the point where it meet the flex disc. What do you guys think? Thanks! -Jooseppi
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes 1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
#2
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For the first question, there is a drain on the block. See this thread:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/185383-pics-83-300d-block-drain-plug-removal.html Can't help with the second Q.
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#3
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there is a small collar on the yoke that the drive shaft mates to. sometimes you need to pry the crap out of it to get it to break free. did you mean the passenger side of the engine compartment? that may be the aux coolant pump
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0o==o0 James 4:8 "...let us put aside the blindness of mind of those who can conceive of nothing higher than what is known through the senses" -Saint Gregory Palamas, ---Discourse on the Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord God and Savior Jesus Christ Centrally located in North East Central Pa. |
#4
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Did u take the mounting bolts off the center support bearing? That should give room to pry it back. Mine didn't take much to move it back.
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84 300sd 2.47 dif 360k 26 mpg needs lots of love given to me in pitty 89 civic hatchback auto 140k 33mpgs soon to be low to mid 40's been in the family since mile 1 85 300d with unknown knock. driven over 30k with knock and still going. sold for $800 |
#5
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Quote:
As a last resort you might have to pry the metal parts in the flex disc away from the propshaft yoke. This will probably mean it is best to replace the flex disc - if you have to damage anything damage the flex disc and not the propshaft yoke. When you put them back together use anti-sieze. I put my propshaft back together and then had to take it off the car about 2 weeks later and they were stuck in as bad as they were previously!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#6
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Kroil seems to work wonders on stuck nuts and bolts.
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1985 300D 198K sold 1982 300D 202K 1989 300E 125K 1992 940T "If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it" "The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not." |
#7
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+1 for Kroil
On a scale of 1-10 for effectiveness wd40 = -1 3-n-1 oil 2 PB blaster 4-6 AeroKroil 10 Whenever I am up working at vstech's he is never more than arms length reach from that little orange can.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#8
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I have Kroil, and it is always around whenever I am working on anything with rust... I have used a bunch already. I continue to be amazed by the amount of people who continue to reach for the WD-40 instead...
__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes 1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
#9
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On my W201 I had to resort to disconnecting the middle propshaft joint (the big nuts) and then taking out the engine + transmission + the front half of the propshaft all in one go! Once I got the engine almost out I had more space to work on that stubborn flex disc : yoke problem.
If I was Ed China and I had a 2 post lift my life would have been made easier - sometimes there's just not enough room to work under a car on axle stands.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#10
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Item #1
monovalve maybe ??
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#11
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I would remove the other three bolts from the front flex disc and beat on the disc with a hammer. Shouldn't take much to knock it off of there.
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#12
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...I am sure we all know about the 5-attachment limit...
Edit... and of course I posted this BEFORE I posted the post that the attachment is for... I blame the cat for trying to sleep on the keyboard while I try to type on it for distracting me...
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes 1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." Last edited by Mölyapina; 08-26-2013 at 10:07 PM. Reason: My itchy posting finger |
#13
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All right, so today I disconnected everything from the transmission -- except for, as I just realized, the shifter linkage! Bad, bad! I thought I was done with that transmission foolishness! -- and have left the following things to do:
I also have two questions -- first, I met up with JB3 and he gave me two W123 seats with good bottom cushions, a bunch of Palomino interior parts, and a cheap Harbor Freight welder (wasn't expecting that... -- THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING JOHN!!!), and he confirmed my suspicions as to where the dreaded Allen head bolts are supposed to be. I don't appear to have those bolts. Here is what I have: Top: Bottom with the nut smack in the center: Bottom with the nut in the far top left of the picture: The bottom one appears to be a 10 MM nut instead of an Allen. I assume that this is just late-run weirdness, (my car was delivered on August 23rd, 1984), and that the pictured bolt is indeed the one that I should be undoing. The other question is basically a cry for help as I don't know how to disconnect the shifter linkage. How do I do that? I assume that there is a nut where the linkage meets the tranny, but it looks hard to get to -- I haven't been able to see it well enough yet to determine that yet. Other misc notes: Here is that funny thing that I was asking about that Zacharias was suggested might be the aux coolant pump: Two notes from this picture: first, it is a pleasure working on a parts car, as I was able to cut the PS line after it wouldn't come out, and second, I decided to disconnect the vacuum line here instead of the pump, as it seemed more accessible: This is me & the car. I am tired .
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes 1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
#14
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That first picture is your engine shock. You will have to hold it with a wrench and remove the nut from the bottom. There should be a flat spot on the shock that will allow you to grab it. Make sure that it doesn't turn while you remove the nut. As for the coolant running out of the aux. pump, just place a catch bucket under it. It will drain out eventually. You can also undo the block drain from the passenger side near the exhaust manifold.
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#15
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Did you find the allen head screws for the motor mount? The other mount you are refering to is an additional shock absorber for the engine. You may still need to loosen and remove the allen head screws from that engine if they have not already been removed. There are two of them. I can see the hole in the bottom of the crossmember were the allen head bolt can be removed in your first picture. They are sometimes packed with dirt and are hard to see. Make sure to clean the dirt out so that the allen head can fit the hole cleanly with no chance of stripping the allen head. It is a bugger to remove these bolts if you strip the head.
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