Autolite.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

I hear you on that. I only pull out injectors if I absolutely have to, as early on in my diesel ownership I got a major lecture from veteran marine diesel tech on exactly what you are saying.

However, for some odd reason re/re of injectors was the very first DIY job I did on my first SD (didn't know that the new injectors would be loud initially, so I almost died of fright when I started it up after). For that reason, I guess I have it my head that it's a routine task, so while I avoid it, I don't get bothered about it (apart from being OCD on how I thread on and tighten the metal lines).

Our difference in perspective is interesting. For me the fiddly aspects of reinstalling the glowplugs far outweighs any concern I have about pulling the injectors. I absolutely loathe doing the plugs, most of all trying to get those damnned little retainer nuts started on the threads (with my lumps of fingers).

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Not to seem overly thick, but how exactly do you do this? Cause I do think it might be a good idea to not be soaking the cylinder with fuel as you do this?

Tell us more about the adapters you've made, and why.

My kit came with glow plug hole take-offs, with a schrader valve and a clip on connector for the guage hose. Is this what you've made?


Hassle of re-priming the om603 injectors (too much cracking and cranking required) makes me favour and use glow plug holes for comp. test. It's not that bad taking the intake manifold off to get at them. 5 empty holes as I'm testing the 6th ensures no-start.

But it doesn't guarantee it won't fire.

Once I compression tested a VW TDI, through the GP hole, leaving injector and supply connected... and the damn thing fired strong enough to blow out the schrader valve in the adapter.

So ya, even if you are testing via GP holes, it's a good idea to cut fuel across the whole lot. It would also prevent a lot of mist spraying out the other unoccupied GP holes, which happens. Filled my garage with mist.

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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Autolite glow plugs? Is that what you use? The problem is the user hole, not the GP hole.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I forgot to mention that I took those 8 mm nuts off and tossed them, put quick connects on the wire ends so they can be removed and put on in seconds (with long nose pliers).

GP's 1 thru 4 can be removed quickly easily (w/o removing the inj hard lines) if you use the right tools. loosen them with a long 12 mm box wrench first, then use 1/4 drive ratchet with wobble and universal + extensions to spin them out. #5 takes longer with a 12 mm gear wrench.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Why? To make compression testing a breeze instead of a PITA chore.

I took a HF kit and used just the gauge and the Schrader ends and highly modified them with quick couplers and a flexible hose so it is easy to set up and does not leak down! After I finish cranking, the needle stays put instead of bleeding down like the stock HF setup.

JB3 took a video of it. Can't find the link right now.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Absolutely no problem pulling hard lines, then GPs if there is an adapter for compression tester as long a planned reaming is due. As for Autolite GPs NFG 4 failed within 6 months compared to two years for three on the Bosch. Is there any experience with NGK's? I wouldn't try any other brand but Bosch unless they were not available.

I used the HF tester and went through the GP holes. I left the injector lines in place, just cracked open the lines at the injectors so fuel would flow out instead of being injected into the cylinders. Yeah, it kind of made a mess. Worked great though. Total time to test all five cylinders, 20 mins or so, my first time doing it.

I really like the quick-connect idea. I put spade terminals on all my GP lines instead of ring terminals. Ring terminals are undoubtedly more secure, spade terminals I can leave the nut on - just loosen it a bit and slide off the terminal.

Twenty minutes for five? I wish I could crack the hard lines, remove 5 GPs, install compression tester fitting, crank engine enough on each cylinder, record readings and replace GP's in that time. I couldn't do that if I begged my wife for help.

I had plenty of practice removing GPs by then, even if it was my first time compression testing. :-)

My leak down tester came with several fittings - one of which fitted the glow plug holes

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Compression test is not something you do everyday, so having a custom designed quick connect is a lot of work but little gain. It is not easy to use GP holes with an OM60x engine, OM617 may be. I think it all comes down to how easy to access the 'holes', injector or GP. Obviously using the GP hole is simpler as there is no heat shield or return hose to replace. You can also ream out the GP carbon. I have never done it thru GP as most of my engines are OM603.

I use a string to tie down the stop lever to stop fuel squirting out, it is simple to do and no mess. Remove all injectors and spin the engine 10-12 revolutions per cylinder and the note the number. It works well for me but every members have their own preferences.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Autolite tips break off. I dunno i guess 6/half dozen.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Thank you everyone! I'll probably go the glow plug route, basically I'm comparing two engines to decide upon one. They both start and run well, but without the time to know oil usage its seems this is the best way to decide.