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#1
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stuborn bolt
I'm replacing my door check straps right now. Passenger side is finished with minimal problems. Drivers side now I have the pannel off the door now there is just one bolt holding the door check strap to the car and its stuborn as hell. how can I get it off?
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W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex Recent work: Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts Replaced positive battery terminal Replaced negative battery terminal and cord New Duralast Battery My car needs work. |
#2
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Is it a regular six sided bolt head ?
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#3
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I think its six sided and I don't have a big assortment of tools to work with either.
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W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex Recent work: Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts Replaced positive battery terminal Replaced negative battery terminal and cord New Duralast Battery My car needs work. |
#4
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Are you worried about rounding it off... or just finding enough power to move it ? You got the other side off ok,,,? Greg
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#5
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both the bolt is kind of in a reccessed part of the door and Its old so it is succeptable to rounding off.
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W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex Recent work: Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts Replaced positive battery terminal Replaced negative battery terminal and cord New Duralast Battery My car needs work. |
#6
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wd40 or liquid wrench?
those have always worked for me.
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2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT -Silver/Black "Siegfried" 1982 300D - Silver/Blue "Ralph" -For Sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=852260 1989 VW Diesel Jetta Blue/Blue "Bodo" RIP |
#7
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I'm using WD-40 for it I'll just go back at it tommrow
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W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex Recent work: Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts Replaced positive battery terminal Replaced negative battery terminal and cord New Duralast Battery My car needs work. |
#8
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Another thing if you're using crappy tools your going to have a problem with rounding of heads and things of that nature.
Go get your self a good set of Craftman wrenches and/or sockets and you won't have to worry as much with rounding off the head.
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2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT -Silver/Black "Siegfried" 1982 300D - Silver/Blue "Ralph" -For Sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=852260 1989 VW Diesel Jetta Blue/Blue "Bodo" RIP |
#9
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There are some wrenches and sockets that do not have straight surfaces between the corners... Sears may have some also... seems I saw some there... they are designed to that pressure is placed more on the straight side of the bolt head as compared to near the corner... I am pretty sure Snap on has them also..... they can be a real treat for using on really stuck nuts and bolts. Often penetrating oils do not reach the threads you need them to... sometimes it is worth , on a vertical surface like you are dealing with, building a small dam with PlayDough,,, and filling it with penetrating oil and leaving it over night...Then on any stuck bolt... when you do get it moving ,,keep spraying P-oil until you get it all the way out... loosen it until it gets hard to turn,spray the threads you have exposed, tighten it again.. this way you carry some P-oil into the threads...and crush some of the rust.... Greg
CarolinaMBZ , in this next post, is referring to the fact that a 6 point socket is much less likely to round off a bolt head than a 12 point.... Last edited by leathermang; 03-22-2002 at 01:28 PM. |
#10
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Are you using a 6 point or 12 point tool?
This can also make a significant difference on potential for rounding fasteners, but also of course is dependent on clearance issues for rotating tool.
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2008 GL320CDI 6K 1970 280SL 112K 1982 240D 210K (Sold) 1973 220D 220K (Sold) 1967 200D 160K (Sold) 1992 400E 139K (Sold) 1988 300E 148K (Sold) 1987 300D 257K (Sold) 1991 300E 108K (Sold) 1987 300E 131K (Sold) 1978 300D TMU (Sold) 1980 300D TMU (Sold) MBCA Member |
#11
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The tools leathermang (Greg) refers to have the corners drilled out so there is no way to apply a load to the corner of the hex headed fasteners. I invested in a set of these when I started knocking the corners off my oil drain plug on the 190E 2.3-16. For some reason this car has a relatively long plug (about 3/4" of threaded length or more), and it used to get stuck quite often. The tools are much less prone to problems with stuck fasteners.
Good Luck, soak the area with penetrating fluids as you are, and use a good wrench. Jim
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Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep) |
#12
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assuming you have the exactly correct socket, use a pipe to extend the leverage on the handle of the driver. there are many bolts on my can that I can't get enough leverage on without using an extension. Its amazing what a lever will do.
I haven't yet rounded one off. I have, in the past on other machines, broken the bolt completely off. Then must drill out and re-tap.....not as bad as it sounds. Nic |
#13
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If you round the bolt off, you can do several things:
-use a cutoff saw and either cut off the head, or slot it (so you can use a big screwdriver to remove it). -if you can fit a small pipewrench into the area (clearance?), its jaws create their own friction and do not require the six bolt faces to still be intact -weld or glue a cheap socket (or the like) to the bolthead. Use a decent hardening epoxy, as the epoxy will fill in the spaces that the rounding destroyed. -use a bolt extractor (drill a small appropriately sized hole in the bolt first) and use the reverse threaded extractor and wrench to remove the bolt. Be careful here, as if the bolt is really tight, you may crack off the extractor. Since the extractor are usually a harder metal than most/all common drill-bits, you are stuck. -drill out the bolthead and threading with a sized drill-bit that is just slightly smaller than the hole threading. remove remaining metal with a pick or the like. That's just about all I can think of at the moment. Good luck! Adam ATLD |
#14
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Adam
What a super idea about glueing a socket on the bolt head! You could use JBWeld for the epoxy, and I am sure this would be preferrable to breaking off an easy-out! Also, if you have room for a manual impact tool, these are very handy!
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Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
#15
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ED, I can see from your signature where you learned about the manual impact tool.... the only way to get some things off on those two wheelers...
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