82 617 turbo. I was doing fine until #2 exhaust (which was the fourth valve I did).

The cap on the valve spring was turning, with the other valves I was able to use a homemade tool to grab it enough to turn the bottom nut down without the cap turning, but this one was tight.

I finally took the injector out to get room to get a vice grips in, and got it. Now, I was putting more side stress than I like on it, but it work and I turned it down, and then was able to lower the top nut clockwise quite a bit, but never got ANY valve clearing. I must have moved it 5 full turns or more.

I was afraid to go anymore because the lower nut was getting tight, like there wasnt threat left (I've never seen one of these valves out).

I even thought maybe I broke the damn valve stem with side stress and that was causing the clearance not to change, so I rotated the engine by hand to make sure. No jet of air out the valve area and no funny noises or stop at TDC .

Finished the rest of the valves and put it back together. Since I'm too stupid to do one thing at a time, I also changed the fuel filters and filled the new filter with powerkleen.

Started it up, I have more valvetrain noise, and gray smoke. Took it out on the road, drove about thirty five miles at varying speeds.

Shakey at idle, runs great off idle with lots more power, but even after 35 miles I've got the light gray smoke (especially at startup), and more 'clack clack'.

I've got the feeling that I somehow got the #2E rocker in a bind when I was futzing with the spring cap and now it's adusted to about a 1/4" of play...but I'm open to other thoughts..suggestions....kicks in the head.

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Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
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Did you bleed your injector lines after getting it put back together?
Is your turbo healthy?

Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

Are you sure, you got the valves right? You didn't think think an exhaust was an intake...or visa versa? The sound tells me you have lose valves still....I think you should open it back up and recheck the valves...and make sure the point of the can faces the oil squirter tube...

Diesel giants pictorial is pretty good....

Mercedes Diesel Valve Adjustment Procedure

Also when you replaced the injector, did you use a new heat shield and torque it to the right specs?

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I used DG's guide and cheat sheet. As long as #1 cylinder is at the front of the car I got it right .

#2E though I've got no clue on.

No.....didn't read an injector how to, I just unbolted it and rebolted it...I guess I need to read that next eh? Could that be my gray smoke?

<> Okay, I've read the how to and ordered the heat shield. While I'm doing that I'll dive in and re-check the valves, I expect it'll end up being #2E. Can't think of any reason why I'd turn that many turns and not get any gap at all.....

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay Are you sure, you got the valves right? You didn't think think an exhaust was an intake...or visa versa? The sound tells me you have lose valves still....I think you should open it back up and recheck the valves...and make sure the point of the can faces the oil squirter tube... Diesel giants pictorial is pretty good.... Mercedes Diesel Valve Adjustment Procedure Also when you replaced the injector, did you use a new heat shield and torque it to the right specs?

__________________
Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
Here's a sig line...
Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.

The only thing I can think of, is that the engine has been neglected and hasn't had regular valve adjust and hasn't seen a lot of high way driving in its life....this would cause the exhaust valves to cake with carbon....maybe there is such a build up of carbon in that cylinder that, it won't allow the valve to seat....in this case, you would know after some driving and rechecking the valves....if they are tight again....after only a few hundred miles....it would indicate carboned valves....my engine was like this....I have done at least 10 valve adjustments in two years and less then 3,000 miles....this last time, I actually had one valve that was still within spec....the exhaust were tight and the intakes all lose...

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On that first go-round, only one valve had any clearance at all for my thinnest feeler, the rest were as tight as a German virgin.

I'm going to check them again tomorrow just to make sure I *didn't* get mixed up, and to see if #2E found any clearance after that fast 35 miles with powerkleen in the filter.

Hoping my NAPA has the heat shield but not holding my breath, probably have to order it in .

__________________
Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
Here's a sig line...
Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.

I can save you a trip, Napa doesn't have them.....I was looking for some and didn't want to order them....I found that car quest was the only place I could find them at.....but then she had to pull the books out and order them....after all that, I found out it would have been faster to order them on the net...if you get the valve stuff figured out, I would recommend to send the injectors out for a rebuild...most people don't realize the FSM States to replace them ever 50k miles....some people have 200k plus on the originals..

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Do you have an VW Performance type shops. we have one here in town, and they have the heat Shields for the VW Diesel Rabbits.
Think I paid $1.50 each for them.

Some auto part stores are connected to World Pak and they can get the shields by the next day or sooner.


It`s interesting when looking up Heat Shield part #`s. shields for a 87 300D...
601-017-00-60 and prices are $1.25, $3.00 and $3.00 for MBZ

Look up heat shields, for a OM616 or a OM617..
617-017-03-60 and prices are $2.00, $2.75 and $4.00 for MBZ

Either one will work from what I have read. the 601-xxx is a 7.5mm hole and the 617-xxx is a 10mm hole in the shield.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Local Napa is claiming they can have in a day, this is the 7.5mm hole. That's plenty fast for me as it'll be a couple of days before I can even get all the valves rechecked.

I just bought the OMG expensive Hazet valve spring cap wrench, don't know how folks do without it, when one of those buggers is bound up getting a vice grip in there is more trouble than $120 for the three wrench Hazet set is worth. I'm still afraid I bent or goobered that #2E somehow farking with that cap, since the injector has to come back out I'm doing a compression test on it....hoping it's not Zero.

Guess if I did I'm into OM617 Head removal, sure glad I've got a shop crane. Of course then I'm into 'while it's out' having the head gone through and refurbed....maybe a timing chain, soon followed by ritual sanpaku.

<> PS....I think you hit it with the heat shield. blue white smoke continuously = air being sucked into system. I know I didn't tighten anywhere near 51ft/lb, and old heat shield, probably sucking and blowing out of that injector port.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay I can save you a trip, Napa doesn't have them.....I was looking for some and didn't want to order them....I found that car quest was the only place I could find them at.....but then she had to pull the books out and order them....after all that, I found out it would have been faster to order them on the net...if you get the valve stuff figured out, I would recommend to send the injectors out for a rebuild...most people don't realize the FSM States to replace them ever 50k miles....some people have 200k plus on the originals..

__________________
Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
Here's a sig line...
Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.

Answering my own post since it's been a couple of days. I'll have a compression tester and a set of new heat shields in my greasy little hands today. Compression tester to make sure there's still a valve on 2E before I try adjusting anymore. My set of 3 hazet tools will be here today as well so I can properly hold the spring cap.

The rest of my valves rechecked correctly, very closely to what I had set them at, slight changes from 35 miles of driving with a fuel filter full of powerkleen (carbon??).

Have a line on a local 300D (not a CD) but another 617 turbo car with 86k claimed close to accurate miles on it. A bit pricey but if I've got no compression in #2 I'm going to pick it up as a driver for now and eventual parts car.

SNIPPPERSSSS<<<>>>>

Oke. that third tool did the trick, even though it's not discussed in the DG how to (but is in the shop manual), if there is a really bound up valve spring cap like mine, you've gotta have the tool. Pressing a screwdriver against it didn't work, not really room for vicegrips, and wow did it make the job fast. 2E was VERY tight, I didn't do a compression test before, but I had to go quite a few turns to get gap.

Torqued my injector that I'd removed earlier with a new heat shield. Bled that line. Engine was just a sec slow to start and smoked like they were having a sale on Lucky Strikes at the old folks home. Took off for a drive, killed all the insects in fields with the cloud that came out. 20 minutes of driving later came back, engine nice and smooth, no smoke. Turned off the key, shut right down, started it up and it fired right on the click, no smoke, seems like a happy camper.

Now all I have to do is find out how to hook up a real tach so I can set the idle properly.....and then troubleshoot the cruise control.

__________________
Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
Here's a sig line...
Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.