Drop it on the stomach... Pretty much how I put transmissions in (in reverse).

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Thanks for all the responses. After thinking this through, I'm glad to be going for the annular style axles. With these, I can at least unbolt the axle from the differential side and drive it out of the hub. Even then, there is always the problem of dealing with spring pressure. Not to mention the limited space. Are these vehicles raised? With what? If not, I'm not sure I could even get under there because of the spare tire well. I'm not obese but 48" chest and the effects of being a good cook, sure don't help. When bringing a friend was mentioned, were you talking about a skinny one?

I don't know how you could safely remove the homokinetic style without a jack. I've replaced the differential mount and the drop when the bolts are removed is very prominent in my mind (my jack wasn't fully up against the differential). I realize this was with the homokinetic axles attached and the car on ramps. I later realized that ramps weren't the best approach for this, as the springs are compressed. But still, the car needs to be raised.

I'm sorry to go on about this but it is a 2 hour drive to the Pick N Pull lot that has what I need and trying to figure out how to go about this in a reasonably safe manner. You don't always realize how much you rely on good tools until you are in a position of trying to do something without them.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

I've never had a woman help me drop a MB diff or axles....

I usually stack tires under the car on both sides in front of the rear SUB frame; then remove the whole sub frame. I'd rather do that and drag it out from under the car then be under the car.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

the pelvis method really works if the car is not far off the ground. Havent been to a picknpull yet, so not sure how far off the ground these cars are, so it may not be feasible, but for narrow spaces, it does work pretty well, especially if the surface is mud or snow underneath the car. Also knees work pretty well. My process is this-

First you get rid of the axles, and you get all the nuts loose above so a few turns will have them off, and remove two from opposite corners. I usually remove all 4 individually first, then hand screw the ones I want to keep up there back on before completely removing the other two. The idea is to get the diff hanging there where a few seconds of work without tools will get it free. Then using your knees or gut, you push up on the diff so its fully supported by you, and unscrew the other two nuts, and then you can lower it controlled with your hands.

The process also works for MB manual transmissions, which I think are about the same weight. The diff is heavy, but not too heavy to hold in your lap, you just don't want to drop it on yourself, thats when you are in trouble.

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

lol

I agree, I don't like being under the car, the only times ive done this has been either on a car with my jack stands already set up, or a car sitting on a bunch of laying flat wheels and definitely not going anywhere

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

The first one I removed, someone needed a rear trailing arm. This is a good way to hold the car up. I was hoping the hydraulics would not fail.





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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

The yards down here have a big cat running around to pick up/flip any cars. There are a bunch of two-rims-welded-together-stands in the yard for support.

I saw a guy getting chewed out for putting an engine on one of their loaner carts (too heavy) so definitely ask and ye shall be spared the yelling and upcharges.

If you need hands I'm sure $20 would convince any random patrons to help you out

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

PNP has the vehicles on 3 stands. the stands are the steel wheels welded together, IE one flat on the ground, and the other sitting upright welded to the flat one.

There is plenty of room to get under the vehicles. the rear stand is positioned under the spare tire well. the vehicles are fairly stable.

Don`t worry about the rear springs, you do not need a spring compressor to remove these, and you won`t be removing the shocks anyway. If you were removing the springs, remove the shocks, remove the calipers and hang on the sway bar, or in PNP just cut the brake hoses. remove the sway bar links, remove the diff mount, and they will fall out when the assembly drops down.

When I am removing the 4 13mm diff mount to body bolts. remove 3 and leave the one rear one closest to the side you slide under from. then keeping your head out of the way, remove the last one. this way your body/arm/hand isn`t under the assembly as it drops down about a foot.

With the shocks still attached, this will keep it from coming down all the way. with them removed it may come down farther. it will wake you up when it drops. surprise, surprise.


Sam, if you haven`t done it before in the yards, it can be scarry thinking about it, and or reading how or what your read here. Once you do it, it really isn`t all that dad.

Iam heading over to San Jose (In the next few minutes) to drop a Differential out of a Euro 250CE with the 3:58 Diff and pull the 150mph spedo.
It has electric front windows but manual rear windows, which I haven`t seen. going to pull the rears, which are rare to see.
This also has a 4-spd manual, starter is on the wrong side, but I did get the shifter and blower motor switch.


Have fun, and be safe.


NOTE:

Damn you guys type fast, read post 17, then posted this and we are at post 22. Iam either a slow typer, or slow thinker.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

If you look at this picture, you can see the axles are clear of the hubs, and the assy is all together.

what I mentioned above, remove the hub bolts, drive the axle out with a brass drift.
Remove the driveline.
Remove the diff mount.
Remove the 4 19mm nuts on top of the sub frame. and the assy should fall down with the axles attached.




Looking at the picture, there really is not a whole lot holding this assy to the body.


Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I see that you are west of Fort Worth. I am located in south fort worth and visit the yards on ocassion. If you ever need a hand give me a call and I will help you out if I am free. Also, be sure to sign up for the toolbox rewards card. It is free and has several perks.

Thanks Charlie! it's good to know they have the cars raised on something stable and it sounds like they usually have additional stands available. I've replaced rear shocks, differential mounts, subframe mounts, driveshaft and spring pads but always with a good floor jack and jack stands. Once the car is in the air, it isn't too bad for most of these. That is why, for the life of me, I was having trouble figuring out how to do this without a jack.

I'll probably be striking out to do this tomorrow. Hopefully, all goes smoothly without danger.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Remember before anytime you decide to go under a PNP car on the stand, give it a good push up and down, and side to side to make sure it is stable. You don't want to be under an unstable car with you trying to break free a stubborn bolt.



.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Yesterday I dropped the Differential out of a 84 280CE, worked out pretty much as I mentioned up above.

Remove the 13mm bolt in each Hub. Put trans in gear or apply the Parking brake to keep wheels from turning.

Use a brass Drift and drive the Axles out of the Hubs.

Remove the Flex Disk bolts at the Differential. 15mm and 17mm
Might have to apply the Parking brake or put Trans in gear a few times. so some crawling out from under the vehicle a few times.

Loosen the 46mm Driveline Nut.

Remove the 2 13 or 14mm bolts for the center support Bearing.

Use a Pry Bar and break the bond of the Flex Disk to the Diff, and pry the DL off then slide the DL to the rear and out. Could leave it in, I removed it to get it out of the way.

Remove both Calipers, 2 19mm bolts, and cut the Brake Hose.

Remove the 4 13mm Differential mount bolts to the body. The assembly will drop some, keep Head out of the way.

Remove the 4 19mm Nuts, 2 from the rear and 2 from the front side that bolts the Diff to the Sub Frame.

Use a Pry Bar to wiggle the Diff lose, and she will drop like a 100lb Rock with the Axles. I was on the front side when I was using the Pry Bar. might be safer than from the rear side, but what ever works. each time is a little different.


Be sure to have a Ratchet with a flex head when getting to the two forward 19mm Nuts for the Diff. I needed a 18" breaker bar to loosen them.

A large pair of channel Locks will loosen the 46mm Nut on the DL.

I think the 2 large bolts in the end of the Diff mount are 22mm, I didn`t have that Socket with me. they may or may not charge you for the old mount.

Loosen the 15mm Diff cover bolts while it is still in the vehicle, easier than when it is on the ground. crack them loose, but still leave them or 2 at least to hold the cover. sometimes they don`t drain the Diffs. better to remove the cover once it is out of the vehicle. Not fun laying in oil.

Then with a hook, maybe needle nose Vice grips, pull the 2 "C" clips that holds the Axles in the Diff. there will be a hole in the tang on the clip. lay a rag over the Diff so they don`t go flying two cars away.

Pull the Axles out. Be sure to remove the Axle Spacer and slip it back in the Diff. It wont fall out, the Seal will keep it in. they say these are side specific.


Since this was a Gasser Coupe, I had to remove the Exhaust heat Shield. Several 8mm sheet metal screws and it drops down out of the way.


Have a fun safe time.


Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Let's say you put a bunch of lobotomy patients in a room and told them to come up with a system of junk yards. You would get Pick-N-Pull. Now, staff each location with said patients and throw in a bit of racism, then, you have Pick-N-Pull as it stands today.

I have never been to the Fort Worth PNP but I know the ones in Dallas are like walking into a combination of Harlem and Mexico city. I get looks and hear comments all the time because I do not fit in at all. I also see a lot of padding at the register. More so than the guy in front of me. They WILL charge you for EVERY nut and bolt! That is, if they don't like you.

If you are not a CHL and do not carry everywhere already, I suggest you pack a little heat when you go. I have seen some really shady scenarios at PNPs in the Dallas area that will peak your SA for he rest of the day.

As far as pulling a diff, just put something under it so the dirt does not get in anything. Let it drop; you won't damage it.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Come to Balamer. Everyone in the yards are friendly, I've lent tools to other guys and hever had any of them disappear. People tend to get along when everyone is packing a breaker bar :p

The cashiers have the usual pawn shop bitterness to them but you've got to remember they deal with people stealing crap and lying all day long. The booked price list is $1/bolt here but they usually let me go at $0.25 per, which is nothing compared to buying new grade 8 metrics.

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment