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This project has to be a long term one for me as there is loads of stuff going on here that I don't broadcast over the internet - just take a look at the stunning speed at which I'm fixing that W201... ...as soon as I get some slack in my life I'll crack on with these important things too! |
Just in case anyone is following this - funola is on the case =>
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/349705-injector-line-pulse-frequency-help-needed.html |
TTT 3.11.21
I'm late to this party .
As an air cooled Mechanic I'm always more interested in dynamic timing . It appears the Gunson and Sealey adapters are identical but for the decals . ? Has anyone actually tried this ? . I'm game but the $ is a big deal for me on my fixed budget . TIA, |
Late to the game too. Just bit the bullet and orderered what I am gussing is a China-Clone Sealy Piezo pulse on injector line sensor /converter to timing light flash
AKA dynamic IP timing light. Anway.... I got sooooooo many variables that maybe off such as: engine has never run AFTER REBUILD but for more than few min by prev owner engine sat for YEARSS engine run by me..... at most 20min..... but HAS to be started with diluted start fluid when not hot ANNND...... SMOKES hence why wanting to get it timed ---- delivery valves cleaned and IP now pisses fuel out of top of IP on all 5 ---- Injectors all pffffff a mist.... didn't technically measure pop pressure cause that wont affect start... only driving performance IMHO??.... and start / basic running is priority right now. That and one was not misting at all at first.. Had to free that one up All new fuel system lines and tank pick up (this is in a Jeep) skeptical of MB fuel pump IP is sitting on engine with mark on IP and mark on front cover aligned. I have RIV port so will take bore scope and see what that tells me (thanks @Funola) soooo with nooo SOLID knowns...... cant measure first as a lot suggest. Thus clarify.... turbo engine with Piezo / Dynamic setting via timing light. Goal is 15deg BFTD at approx 1000 rpm? |
It was 10 years ago when I last used my diesel timing stuff. I have forgotten a lot since. I found the tools I made today (RIV timing light and IP turning tool). Forgot I also have a Mac tools ET18DPM piezo injector line pulse adapter which I bought to test the RIV timing light and also for use on my diesel Jetta (went to junkyard 5 yrs ago). I hooked up the ET18DPM (easy to do) to see if it still works. It does!
I found a note that says: "RIV timing light 15 degree ATDC , MAC tools diesel pulse adapter 17 degree BTDC" These are the numbers my 85 is timed to, with my tools. Are your glow plugs good? Have you checked compression? No air or restriction in fuel system? For a diesel to start and run well, engine timing and compression has to be within spec. |
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Gplugs.... another hmmmmm??? kept popping fuses on two different MB relays. AND on a ford style set up installed out of desperation-ish. Somehow I have voltage in my body. that issue appeared from no where. Was never an issue before. Was that why blowing MB fuse out of nowhere.... no clue. Found that after the fact. On the Ford relay and second wire harness to plugs... seems to be fine. Issue with Ford mayyy have been two small a fuse.. upped to resettable rated at 100amp. and no more fuse popping. Assume they work now for Volts drop to 11v when activating push button on dash.. Bought a clip on Amp meter to measure for sure. Had not yet cause its 90+ outside.... should not need GP anyway if all was working right. (full time dark-ish grey smoke when running says its not ) compression- engine is supposedly rebuild so it damn well better be good. but yeah we checked..... all in spec. Air- no restrictions ...... at moment no air cleaner on it. hmmm..... hmmmm. does raise a question... did Dirt Daubers climb thru Turbo and build nests behind it?? will dig into that (literally) Can I remove turbo w/out having to buy gaskets etc to look/clean in there? |
When was the compression test done and what were the numbers? From what I understand, your engine has not many hours running since rebuilt so it is not broken in? Plus it sat outside under a tarp for how long?
Was it hard to start when you bought it or is this after the engine fell over? edit: Don't know the answer to your turbo question. I think you should leave the turbo alone for now and concentrate on getting the engine to run well. |
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Tarp.... uggg.. time flys 4? years in a non finished project under hood, between Prev. Owner and myself. Bought it as a ... "I bet I gotta swap eventually spare" .... planned to swap after retire... but OM617 in Jeep Tricked me and went out sooner than expected. Then hmmm.. 1.5yrs under tarp at my place between start of removal(s) and swap / actually getting it installed in Jeep. (weather and career provided only 3-4 months/yr to do any work pre-retirement. Now weather is only limit [no garage. Am about as "under tree-ish mechanic-ing, as one can get here] so maybe 4-5 months/yr can work on it now, cause weather]. Also started building a garage before winter hit last year ) Started up first time..... May of this year. Never tried starting it before fall over. Though have video of it running from fella purchased the unfinished project it came out of (Land Rover Discovery) |
120's compression would explain the hard starting and grey smoke.
This is from AI overview which looks ok to me: mercedes om617 compression spec The Mercedes-Benz OM617 engine has a compression ratio of 21.5:1 for both naturally aspirated (OM61x.91x) and turbocharged (OM617.95x) versions, although there's some debate with older sources suggesting 21:1 for naturally aspirated engines. Some sources indicate 21.0:1 for certain variations like the OM617A. Compression Pressure (psi or bar): New Engine: A new or properly overhauled OM617 engine should have compression pressure between 320 to 350 psi (24 to 30 bar) at 80°C (175°F) coolant temperature. Minimum for Starting: For reliable starting, cold compression numbers of 220 psi or above are generally considered sufficient. General Guideline: A common rule of thumb for diesel engines is that each cylinder should have 300 to 500 psi, with all cylinders measuring within 10 percent of each other. Significant deviations can indicate internal damage. Important Notes: Warm Engine Testing: Compression tests on the OM617 should ideally be performed with the engine warmed to 80°C (175°F). Valve Adjustment: Ensure the valves are properly adjusted before performing a compression test, as tight valves can affect readings. Cylinder-to-Cylinder Variation: Consistency between cylinder readings is crucial. Differences greater than 15 psi (1 bar) can indicate issues. Low Compression: If compression is too low, it can lead to hard starting or poor engine performance. High Compression: Abnormally high readings could indicate excessive carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. |
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Eddies recollection is 300 on cylinders 1800 to 2000pis on pops using Pop tester on Injectors (127-137bar) |
300 psi is good. Was that on a warm or cold engine? You didn't do the test yourself 2 weeks ago?
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Timing LIght Convertor box was suppose to show up today. Stayed home all day phone in hand waiting for postal to ping me so I could sign for it. Never got pinged, never showed up. Past 10pm they changed the tracking to all new wording. and a notation it arrived in my home town at 8:30pm. where yesterday and this morning it said it was on the way.
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This timing gun can be used in ONE of my 2 cars, Guess which one!
This timing gun in the OP can be used in ONE of my 2 cars, Guess which one!
https://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...e6490-cars.jpg https://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/gregp1962-albums-repairs-picture6490-cars.jpg |
on the Sealy / Gunson what do you set timing light too.. (all of them seem to have settings for 4, 6, 8cyl
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