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  #1  
Old 09-27-2013, 12:31 PM
thayer's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mt. Airy, NC
Posts: 891
83 300sd Blowing fuse #1

Hey Guys,

Fuse #1 is blowing when I turn the headlights on. The short is instant.

Here are the items on the fuse card

parking/tail light right, - out - Bulb known good by swapping
warning
buzzer, - Not Buzzing - this is the most likely culprit. Need to check that. I pull it when wrenching to keep ears happy
license plate/ - Didn't look
instrument - This is the cluster - Out

hazard warning switch - Illumination out - still functions
heater and ventilation controls/ - Illumination out - still functions
rocker switches illumination, - illumination out - still functions
(electronic radio illumination)

any thoughts besides that for the good of the group?


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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg
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  #2  
Old 09-27-2013, 01:18 PM
Waste_Gate's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Chapin, SC
Posts: 130
Rheostat

Pull your Rheostat and replace the fuse. I had the same problem recently on my 300CD. My neighbor told me my tail light was out so i replaced the bulb, no dice. Next day I noticed my gear shifter lights worked but none of the instrument or console lights would work.

I replaced fuse 1 and it blew the next day. I then removed the rheostat and replaced the fuse. The fuse never blew again.

I cleaned the rheostat and reinstalled it last month and the fuse hasn't blown. Give it a try.


Willson
85 300CD
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  #3  
Old 09-27-2013, 01:22 PM
thayer's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mt. Airy, NC
Posts: 891
The rheostat is a great thought. Because the stat failed earlier than my ownership of the car, I simply jumped it. That Jump could have broken off and caused the short. I have a great stat out of an 87 560 I'll pop in. Be nice to have it working even if max brightness is still too dim.
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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg
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  #4  
Old 09-27-2013, 01:29 PM
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Location: Chapin, SC
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Yeah let us know what happens.
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  #5  
Old 09-28-2013, 04:08 PM
thayer's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mt. Airy, NC
Posts: 891
well, I pulled the door switches, they were good.

Pulled cluster, everything was fine.

I didn't fix anything, but I did test it again, and it works fine.

I dislike that I don't know what the problem is. I say is because if I didn't fix anything then its highly likely that the problem will crop up again.

Well, on to the capacitors in the cruise amp.
__________________

77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg
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  #6  
Old 09-28-2013, 09:52 PM
Graham's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,393
I have a similar problem. I described it in another thread:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/337946-electrical-troubleshooting-85-w123.html

Car is W123, but probably quite similar wiring.

Lights did work for a while after replacing fuse, but tonight I once again had no dash lights.

There must be a short somewhere, but finding it is another thing.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
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