Maybe there is an upside to being furloughed. Lookie what I found at the Pick & Pull - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pwogaman · #1 10-01-2013, 08:48 PM

In case you can't read that, it is a #17.

So, I've got some work cut out for me. The weather is supposed to be perfect.

Junkman · #2 10-01-2013, 08:59 PM

I was 15 & not working. Dad said "enjoy it, this will be your last for a long time". Fortunately, I've managed to do a lot of playing.

vstech · #3 10-01-2013, 11:11 PM

... buy a HIGH QUALITY XZN 8mm socket!!! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE HEAD WITHOUT ONE!!! I recommend KLANN official tool, but snap-on or Mac pro tools will suffice.
also, bring several cans of brake spray to get the bolt heads CLEAN!!! and DRY!

pwogaman · #4 10-02-2013, 03:57 AM

I got my XZN tool directly from Mercedes, so no skimping there. It worked great on my 602 head, even through the cam shaft tower retainers. I learned my lesson with the cheapie XZN tool on the rear axle CV joint bolts; I'm not going there again.

Good idea on the extra cans of brake cleaner. I already had planned on bring some BP Blaster for the exhaust manifold bolts and other dirty exterior fasteners.

Unfortunately, I don't have a chain pin pusher for the timing chain. As far as the chain guide pins, I don't have a proper puller either, and my success with the 10mm bolt and washer method is mixed, so I was thinking of just leaving the pins in and taking a hack saw to the timing chain. It is crude, but it should be effective.

Skippy · #5 10-02-2013, 05:16 AM

Quite a find. I've only ever seen one 124 in a junkyard. It was a 260E with 300,000+ on it that looked like it been rolled off a cliff.

vstech · #6 10-02-2013, 07:24 AM

yeah, I mention this because I had to leave a #22 head on a car at the PNP due to stripped head bolts... SOOOO frustrating! they crushed the car...

charmalu · #7 10-02-2013, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwogaman

I got my XZN tool directly from Mercedes, so no skimping there. It worked great on my 602 head, even through the cam shaft tower retainers. I learned my lesson with the cheapie XZN tool on the rear axle CV joint bolts; I'm not going there again.

Good idea on the extra cans of brake cleaner. I already had planned on bring some BP Blaster for the exhaust manifold bolts and other dirty exterior fasteners.

Unfortunately, I don't have a chain pin pusher for the timing chain. As far as the chain guide pins, I don't have a proper puller either, and my success with the 10mm bolt and washer method is mixed, so I was thinking of just leaving the pins in and taking a hack saw to the timing chain. It is crude, but it should be effective.

Good find.

Be sure to take along good U.S. made Hack Saw blades. I was cutting off the Radiator support in PNP to remove an engine. We went through 4 Blades. The teeth just seem to break off.

.....or just have plenty of the cheap ones.

Charlie

Simpler=Better · #8 10-02-2013, 11:32 AM

Bolt cutters should go through the timing chain easily, or pry a link apart with two screwdrivers.

daw_two · #9 10-02-2013, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwogaman

Unfortunately, I don't have a chain pin pusher for the timing chain. As far as the chain guide pins, I don't have a proper puller either, and my success with the 10mm bolt and washer method is mixed, so I was thinking of just leaving the pins in and taking a hack saw to the timing chain. It is crude, but it should be effective.

The washers that are on the exhaust manifold bolts along with a bolt and washer from the valve cover (I think) can be used as a pin puller for the timing chain GUIDE. Also, you will need a LONG allen 5mm (I think) to undo the bolt under the timing chain. Removing the timing chain guide helps.

cooljjay · #10 10-02-2013, 04:13 PM

PNP engines are so cheap, I would just pull the whole engine myself.....then fighting a head removal in the yard....

pwogaman · #11 10-02-2013, 06:37 PM

Well I went to work on getting the head out today. It is the real deal alright.

Everything was going smoothly and it is just about ready for the plucking.

There is just one problem however . . .

ONE STINKING BOLT DECIDED TO STRIP!!!!!!!!!!

Given that it does not look like my furlough will end anytime soon, I might just take another stab at it tomorrow. In the mean time, that bolt is swimming in BP Blaster overnight.

I am open for suggestions, but keep in mind that I have no power or compressed air source available. I'm tempted to try filing a groove with which I could try torquing with some form of straight edge. And if that does not work I could just keep filing until the bolt head is gone. I will bet I could get that done before Congress gets its act together and lets me get back to work.

jbrianfoto · #12 10-02-2013, 06:46 PM

Man - That SUCKS ! Did it turn at all before it stripped? I'll loan you all three of my cordless DeWalt drills - maybe you could drill it out as far as possible - then see if you can knock the head off with a chissile? I'm on the essential list - otherwise I'd come help you. Did you end up cutting the timing chain? I wonder (since I just did this) - if you could just remove the chain tensioner form the side of the engine, then remove the timing gear bolt, then the gear could just pull off?

pwogaman · #13 10-02-2013, 08:27 PM

It didn't budge at all. I smashed up one chisel today, but it was a wood chisel and evidently not a big enough hammer. Maybe I'll bring along some heavy metal chisels and punches and a bigger hammer.

Simpler=Better · #14 10-02-2013, 08:47 PM

HF has a hammer driven screwdriver impact, use that with a left ahdned screw extractor

Impact Screwdriver Set with Case

and one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=extractor

Stretch · #15 10-03-2013, 01:29 AM

Cordless drill - cutting oil - cobalt drill bit - very slow speed - patience

Drill the head off