actually... this is not so.

cleaning and greasing the slides on the calipers and the edges on the pads is to prevent sticking pads... not to stop squealing.
squealing is caused by the pads vibrating on the rotor/caliper piston... that's what the rubber/plastic/epoxy pad or backing on the pads is for. to seal the pad to the caliper piston.
cleaning the edges where the pads touch the frame of the caliper is very wise to prevent stuck pads/ or uneven braking.

I haven't used locktite on my caliper bolts in years, but then again rust can accomplish the same thing.

The bolts are always nearly impossible to remove later anyway, so I never bothered. Sounds like a good idea though. I may go through and coat them after wire wheeling off the rust next servicing

blue loctite, not only keeps a bolt from vibrating loose, it also seals out rust, making it easier to remove in rust prevalent areas...

That's right. I have seen one pad completely worn down by a sticking floating caliper. And it didn't make a sound until metal hit metal.

Also if your caliper is not in its proper orientation (like when the bolts are loose) it also causes uneven pad wear. It trashed the pads on that side and necessitated an unplanned brake job.

Just did my fronts again yesterday afternoon for the 4th time. Always need a breaker bar to get them off.

Original bolts - I clean them on the bench grinder with a metal brush attachment then apply a liberal amount of thread sealer blue to the last inch of the bolt and torque to 115Nm.

I've got a collection of new bolts that come with various parts but none of these new bolts are near the quality of the originals.
I just make sure that any new bolts are not a higher strength grade otherwise I will use them. ie if my original bolts are grade 10.9 and the supplied bolts are 12.9 I'll use them instead.

I do not reuse nuts if they are the kind that make their own thread for 'once use only'