That I removed on Saturday.

Note the lovely, even corrosion on the exterior. The beautiful plastic impeller. The sleek design (about 1/3 smaller body and slightly shorter than the Meyle I put on).

The Meyle was larger, much heavier and had a metal impeller with deeper vanes. (Sorry, I did not think to snap a pic of them side by side, as I had just finished two delightful hours in combat with the alternator bolts.)

It has no markings but I looked around online and it matches the pics of the URO product.

Attached Thumbnails

     

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

URO: Providing the very best examples of what should not be bought.

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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles
1992 750il / 17k miles - project car

You may be interested in this news report:

A.P.A (aka URO) now OE supplier to Mercedes!

I have bought several URO parts. But not mission-critical parts. Not OE quality, but they worked out OK.

I did buy a water pump for my 107 recently. Interestingly Meyle were cheap, but US Meyle distributor suggested I buy something else! I bought a LASO - Not cheap at $150, but better than OE at $500! Meyle was $75.00.

It's hard to know what to buy, but for some parts, URO/APA seems to be the only alternative to OE.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

here is the meyle water pump with cast iron vane new uninstalled that I have, I installed one as well to replace a cheapo aftermarket on the right.

Next to it is a stamped metal POS I pulled off mine. I didn't know that URO had plastic pumps, but at least its closer to the correct design than this stamped steel no name brand that was on mine. Wish I knew what that was, so we can avoid it too.

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

I would guess that's a GMB you had. I had to search through pics to identify mine, as it has no markings except two numbers that don't return to anything through Google. I remember this one because it's the only one I saw with those vanes.

By the way, the URO unit is also sold branded Beck & Arnley. Interesting that you mention URO pumps and plastic vanes, as the photos with the parts listings online clearly show a metal impeller for both the URO and the Beck & Arnley.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Yeah, Mercedes is accepting much lower quality on many of it's newer parts, and accessories. I saw the new GLA at the Frankfurt auto show, and was blown away by how cheaply it was built. Right down to the hood-prop, I was not impressed. Sad stuff.

Concerning the Impellers. The original Water Pump that came on the Volvo had a Cast Impeller.
The Replacement Water Pump was from a reputable Company but it had a Stamped Impeller. The Stamped Impeller has cause absolutely no issues.
Meaning it does not matter what the Impeller is made of as long as it works.

I once got a Rebuilt Water Pump for a Gasser and it had a nice Cast Impeller.

After a week or so the temp started to rise. I tested the Thermostat and it was OK.

I removed the Water Pump and found the Impeller was loose on the Shaft???
So you never know what evil lurks.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

APA/ÜRO should NEVER EVER EVER be considered as an alternative to OE parts.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

+100.

There are almost always other brands as alternatives if you check multiple vendors. Yes, believe it or not, not all interweb vendors offer the same brands... just because you don't seen anything but Uro and Vendor ABC doesn't mean you won't find other brands at Vendor XYZ. Gotta do your homework. And if there really is nothing else available, buy OE.

Y'all have seen this thread, right?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/open-discussion/295958-dang-you-uro.html

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

True, but working adequately so as not to show a problem, and working as well as original are in two different categories.

In the above pic between the cast vane and stamped vane, the stamped vane has half the impeller surface area, and would move that much less fluid in one revolution.

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

A plastic impeller is not necessarily bad....if its made of a high grade plastic it could be just as good as a cast piece, and won't corrode. With the water pump the critical part is the bearing/seal, if thats good then I bet it would last just as long as an older heavier one.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I have bought some URO parts for non mission critical areas like trunk gasket and sway bar link but I'm not sure I could bring myself to pull the trigger on a URO water pump. I don't much like walking. I'm too fat.

I would guess that, as well. I just put on a GMB (made in Italy) that had a similar stamped impeller on my VW.

It seems to cool just as well as the unknown brand I tool off that had a cast plastic impeller. I would agree that cast metal is tits. Stamped metal may be second best - probably less efficient in moving fluid, but reliable. There is an outside chance that the plastic could slip on the shaft or deteriorate.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

This from an unrelated conversation elsewhere, just last night, with someone who used to work for a now-defunct web vendor: It isn't just that URO offers tantalizing low list prices. The URO stuff has a huge margin between "list" and wholesale, viz other brands.

The vendor in question apparently started pushing URO about a year before he sold out his business. As an example, he was buying URO balljoints for about $3 and retailing them to customers for $19-$23. No wonder companies want to sell the junk. Even though the price point is low, they can still achieve great markups.

When you look at a $3 cost, and you consider that chinese part had to cross at least two and probably three sets of hands before reaching the vendor, each of whom had to make something out of the deal... and how far it had to be shipped to get here... what do you think the original factory FOB price was... 25 cents?

That scares the bejeezuz out of me.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

This is my real beef with the likes of Febi and even Lemforder sourcing in China. They do it and the price of the part stays the same or even increases. The huge cost savings goes in their pockets, not ours. We get junk at the same price and then need to replace it twice as often.

Double penetration!

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)