I have an 85 300D and noticed today when I was driving it, whenever you turn to the left there's a popping noise coming from the rear end area. Almost sounds like it's in the trunk. Anyone have a clue where I should start or what I need to fix?

I only heard it for a moment turning right though and only once. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Start by inspecting your CV joints.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

How do I know if they're bad and how tough are they to fix? Thanks for the quick response also

I would also have a look at the sway bar links. One each side attached to hub. They wear out and even fall off sometimes. Look like this. Easy to replace.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Graham, does that piece snap on to a ball type thing? I noticed that I'm missing something on the driver side that snaps on to a ball and goes gown towards the hub. If this is the piece I need, what is it called, how much do they run and where can I get a set so I can go ahead and replace the other one. Thanks for the help

It is hard to see in that particular photo but the original sway bar links look like a mini-ball joint on each end (in this photo, it looks like just an elbow). The sway bar links connect the end of the rear sway bar to the hub. It isn't a part that needs emergency replacement.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

That whole thing is an assembly; not supposed to be in individual parts. It is one of the Cheaper parts to replace.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

At the factory:
The plastic rod and boots snap onto the metal balls using a high speed 20 ton jig and press machine.

They are trash if:
* The boots are damaged.
* The boots are leaking corrosion.
* The boots are missing.
* The plastic link is damaged.
* The plastic link is broken.
* The plastic link is missing.

The only part reused is the nut/washer holding it to the sway bar.

.

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Thanks for all the responses. Looks like I'll be replacing both just to be on the safe side and since they are the cheapest thing I will have changed out it's no big deal. Everyone sure has been helpful to a newbie who is still learning this ol tank lol. Thanks again guys!!

You have most of answers. As mentioned the links come assembled as a unit. Just unscrew the parts that are still on car and screw on new links. Been a while, but I think you need two wrenches. One to stop ball turning while you tighten with other.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Well I will put in my order for them today. What do I need to replace to take care of the slack I have in the steering?

It depends on what is causing the slack.

On top of the Steering Box is a Nut and Adjustment Screw to take up the clearance in the Steering Box.
If you get the adjusment too tight you will turn the Steering Wheel one way and it will stick momentarily cause you to jerk the Wheel to the opposite side and that side will sick; you will go back and forth like that until you give it some more clearance.
If I remember correctly this is one of the Times when turning the adjustment screw counter clockwise (anticlockwise) tightens the clearance.

If the Steering Box is adjusted safely block the rear Wheels and apply the Parking Brake. Have some one start the Car in Park and have them slowly rock the steering Wheel back and forth and watch which of the linkages moves before the Wheels Start to turn.

Not as easy to do; if by yourself Jack the Car until both front Wheels are off of the Car and grab the side of the wheels and rock the wheel and watch the Steering Linkages to see what moves easily before it bottoms out.
For more details
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

the sway bar links are really easy to replace, but i did have to remove the wheels (some people say they can do it leaving them on) because i found a lack of clearance for the wrench with the wheels on.

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1981 NA 300D 310k miles

I removed my wheels too, when I replaced mine.....was much easier...

On the steering problem, I know its a debate but I tell everyone to start by replacing the steering components first before adjusting the steering box.....only after you have replaced the tie rods, center drag link, idler arm and flushing/filter change on the power steering system would I adjust the box....just my two cents...

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Just noticed this thread in Vintage forum. May be of some help:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/345226-photos-replaced-w115-w114-rear-sway-bar-end-links.html

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5