240 D Clutch Replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

1983 Old Blue · #1 10-24-2013, 01:56 PM

I am getting ready to replace the Clutch, Pressure Plate, Release bearing and Pilot bearing in my 1983 240D.
1- Will I have enough clearance if the car is on ramps in the front or will I need jack stands, and/or will I need to also raise the back of the car as well?
2- Should I have a jack to support the engine once the transmit ion support is removed?

Anny help is appreciated

JB3 · #2 10-24-2013, 02:06 PM

id use 4 jacks for the room involved and ditch the ramps as A. in the way of your creeper, and B, less safe than a locked jack stand.
You will have to drop the front half driveshaft, and having room to do that will be convenient.

engine doesn't really need a jack, but I usually jam a piece of wood under the engine between the pan and subframe to let it sit on so it doesn't rip the engine mounts or twist them too bad when the transmission is out, and for no metal to metal connections.

Otherwise, you want that down angle as it will make install and removal quite a bit easier

Simpler=Better · #3 10-24-2013, 02:07 PM

1- More jacks are better. Once the transmission is free the rear wheels will spin freely.
2-You will need a jack(or ratchet strap up front), the motor mounts are only on the sides of the engine.

whunter · #4 10-24-2013, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1983 Old Blue

I am getting ready to replace the Clutch, Pressure Plate, Release bearing and Pilot bearing in my 1983 240D.

1- Will I have enough clearance if the car is on ramps in the front or will I need jack stands, and/or will I need to also raise the back of the car as well?

2- Should I have a jack to support the engine once the transmit ion support is removed?

Any help is appreciated

I am allergic to ramps below twenty ton for cars, to me it is a life/death safety issue = zero trust.

IMO you need a Minimum lift height 20 inches under body clearance for this DIY. Note: I prefer 24 inches.

These jack stands are tall enough for the job.
6 Ton Jack Stand Set

This jack is tall enough for the job.
Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton, Rapid Pump® Jack

FYI: I rarely need to support the OM616, it is well balanced on the mounts
You may need to dismount the throttle rod.

.

Stevo · #5 10-24-2013, 03:09 PM

You dont need to support the engine but the car needs to be fairly high to get the box from under the car. I leave the flex coupling on the box then wire the drive shaft end up out of the way then undo the two 13mm bolts holding the cross member to the body, leaving it and the mount on the tranny. Remove the clutch slave, wire it up out of the way without breaking into the hydraulics and you wont have to bleed the system later

I coulda learned that sooner

An impact wrench is really your friend when undoing the flex coupling bolts.

Dan Stokes · #6 10-24-2013, 06:43 PM

The guys have given you the highlights. If you look on my thread (I'm Back, ...... I forget the rest of the title) there are step-by-step pics of the actual clutch install. I didn't document the "taking the trans out" part as it's going behind an OM617 in an S-10 and I pulled the trans out of the 240D on the hoist. I didn't care about the driveshaft, etc. so I just pulled and yanked.

I think your car is old enough that a standard 35mm OD pilot bearing will slip right in there. It's an SKF 6202-2RSJ. My '85 flywheel needed a 34mm OD bearing. There's a thread on here about THAT debacle!

I used the LuK kit from Pelican. Everything looked great but I haven't run the truck yet so I can't say for sure. The pilot bearing does NOT come in the kit but if you'll go to your local bearing house they are around $4.00.. Just Google for "bearing suppliers" and your town.

Dan

charmalu · #7 10-25-2013, 12:22 AM

What I found about buying the Pilot bearing local is, NAPA wants $27, and Carquest wants $26, but would give it to me for $19. Both places have the Chicom bearings.

The SKF is around $7+ and the FAG is around $5+. Both of these are made in Argentina.

I just bought 5 from a site that has them for $1.50 each. should be in this week some time. OH, these are Chicom bearings.

I googled 6202zz which is the 15 x 35 x 11mm shielded bearing, and 62202-zz and seems to be the same bearing.

https://www.google.com/#q=6202zz

And Googling 6202-2RSJ
https://www.google.com/#q=6202-2rsj

I used www.vxp.com for some Japanese Nachi bearings for my Datsun 5-spd. had them in 3 days. they are the first one in the second list.

Charlie

Dan Stokes · #8 10-25-2013, 09:50 AM

I got mine here in town from a bearing supplier (Fensel Supply here in NC), NOT an auto parts place. They were $4. and change. Of course being local there was tax. Still, a good deal. And my SKF box says "Made in Argentina".

Dan

1983 Old Blue · #9 10-25-2013, 10:58 AM

Thanks fore all the help. I'm still shopping for the parts and comparing price and product. I have a friend that manages the local Mercedes dealership and can get approx. 45% off on genuine Mercedes parts. I don't have a pilot bearing puller and hope to use the method of filling the ID with grease and tapping a shaft in to remove the bearing. Anybody have experience with this method? I got my 240D for $500 with a blown engine 13 years ago and installed a rebuilt from Metric Motors. I should have changed the clutch back then when I had the engine and gear box removed but money was tight. Body work and paint was recently restored and with 228,000 miles the clutch is starting to chatter.
I can't start the project for two because of out of town company, just trying to get my ducks in a row.

Stevo · #10 10-25-2013, 04:45 PM

Thats a twin to my 79, love the blue, very nice. I couldn't get the grease thing to work, just made a big mess. My buddy has a puller that I borrowed last time.

Dan Stokes · #11 10-25-2013, 04:57 PM

Email sent.

Dan

Dan Stokes · #12 10-26-2013, 09:58 PM

Old Blue called this morning - we had a lovely chat. Nice to "meet" someone on the forum.

Dan

1983 Old Blue · #13 11-06-2013, 01:00 PM

Well I started the clutch job on Monday including getting the car up on jack stands and was able to complete the disassembly. I had to remove the center drive shaft support to be able to get the shaft separated from the transmition flex disk. One of the center support bolt was so hard to get out that I'm surprised that It didn't break. The parts were supplied by my local Mercedes Dealer (I get them at dealer cost, my friend is the General Manager) gave them my vin # and Chassis # to insure that the parts would be correct. The 240D used two different Release bearings depending on vin and transmit ion #. You guessed it, the release bearing was the wrong one. Had to wait till noon the next day to get the bearing from NAPA, made in Germany by Sachs. I spent all morning on the second day trying to get the pilot bearing out. I rented a puller from Auto Zone, no luck. I finally gave up and made the decision to leave the bearing in. It had been changed when I replaced the Engine with a full block from Metric Motors 40,000 miles ago and seemed to be ok. I know you're wondering why I didn't replace the clutch then when I had the engine and tranny out, no excuse just stupid. Re assembly was routine with the exception that I had to re- tap the bar that receives the center support collar bolt. By the end of the second day I was finished. Not bad considering the wrong parts, pilot bearing and struggling with the drive shaft center support.

Thanks again for all the help.

Simpler=Better · #14 11-06-2013, 01:09 PM

Glad it's together. Sounds like it went 50x smoother than most of my projects :p