How to determine true mileage? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Danman · #1 11-02-2013, 09:30 AM

I'm not looking to purchase but I found this ad and am intrigued. Not many pictures which is iffy, but led me to the question- are there certain places to look for signs of wear that someone could reasonably determine mileage to say the nearest 100,000 miles?

1984 Mercedes Benz 300cd Coupe

Phil_F_NM · #2 11-02-2013, 10:10 AM

All the parts that wear on the chassis can be replaced in a high mileage car. The real test is to do a compression test on the engine. If it has good compression, it could have over a million miles on the chassis and new suspension components and could last for a long time.

Get it up on the road and test accelleration and how it drives. The steering should be confident feeling and not loose. These steering boxes can deform holes in the mount over time.

Also check for rust. lift up floor mats, get under the car and look under the jackpoints and where the rear subframe meets the body. Check inside the wheel wells dilligently. The rear sway bar mount in the wheel wells can rot easily.

Check under the battery tray for rust. Also the hood mounting points and the pockets under the hood by the corner.

Check the sunroof (if it has one) for function and also check under the pillars at the rear of the car in the trunk. Lift up the trunk mat and check for rust. Also check under the spare tire. If the car has a first aid kit, lift it up and out to access under the rear window where you'll be able to feel around for corrosion.

Looks like a nice car from the photo.

Phil Forrest

rscurtis · #3 11-02-2013, 10:13 AM

Carfax is one option, but forensic evidence is best. When I bought my signature car with 101k on the clock, it jived with Carfax. The best evidence I found was an oil change sticker on the edge of the driver's door that showed 45K miles in 1991 when the car was in Florida. For that particular car, I would be more concerned with rust than mileage- and the fact that parts availability for coupe's is difficult compared to a sedan.

vstech · #4 11-02-2013, 10:51 AM

wow... the seller went all out on the details on the car didn't they?

and the only picture they post is with the rear window down... are they hiding the broken regulator evidence?

Dan Stokes · #5 11-02-2013, 11:18 AM

Some of most obvious signs are - well - obvious. Check the driver's seat for wear. If it looks perfect it's been dyed. Should have wear but not be trashed.

Also check the pedal pads. Again if they look fresh they've likely been replaced but if they're badly worn you can bet that the car has a jillion miles. They should look used but not shot. Some of really clever used car prep guys will scour salvage yards for slightly worn pedal pads so they can replace trashed pads but most aren't that sharp.

It's helpful if you can get to the car before it's been detailed. Once the engine has been "shampooed" (as they call it) it's harder to find oil leaks and the like.

I used to do used car prep for a Buick dealer. We're talking '63, '64. 65. 66. The dealer was very honest and wouldn't do these techniques - we just cleaned up the cars and put them on the lot. If the car was trashed or very high mileage they were wholesaled and if there was something wrong (like that leak I mentioned) we'd fix it. But you pick up these tricks by seeing what other places did.

Dan

Danman · #6 11-02-2013, 11:19 AM

Yea, pictures and details are sparse which raises a lot of questions. My 84 has 300k miles and only one small rust spot behind the wheel under the trunk. So around here, if the cars been in OK or Texas it's whole life, vehicles can have very little rust with high miles.

Carfax and compression check would be the most reliable I suppose. What parts exactly are harder to find for a coupe?

Danman · #7 11-02-2013, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Stokes

Also check the pedal pads.

Dan

I remember reading about the pedals pads somewhere. That could be a good quick indication. Especially if you have seen some high mileage pedals to compare it to.

GregMN · #8 11-02-2013, 11:28 AM

Forget about the car. You can check that out when/if you go see it.

Google the phone number.

You will find that the seller is not an owner. They are a flipper. They are selling MB's in OK and boats in Oxnard, CA.

vstech · #9 11-02-2013, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danman

Yea, pictures and details are sparse which raises a lot of questions. My 84 has 300k miles and only one small rust spot behind the wheel under the trunk. So around here, if the cars been in OK or Texas it's whole life, vehicles can have very little rust with high miles.

Carfax and compression check would be the most reliable I suppose. What parts exactly are harder to find for a coupe?

pretty much everything that is coupe specific. several million 123's made it into the country... the coupes are much more rare, and better cared for, so finding them in a parts yard is difficult to impossible.

front fenders, hood, seats, windows, dash wood, etc etc etc...

Danman · #10 11-02-2013, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregMN

Forget about the car. You can check that out when/if you go see it.

Google the phone number.

You will find that the seller is not an owner. They are a flipper. They are selling MB's in OK and boats in Oxnard, CA.

I had a suspicion! I've seen quite a few ads from Haskell OK, mostly diesel trucks.

97 SL320 · #11 11-02-2013, 01:56 PM

Ways to a catch a flipper ( dealer ) that posts in the By owner section.

I'm calling about the car.

I'm calling about ad on craigslist.

Is the title in your name?

Do you have any service history?

How long have you owned the car?.

Do a web search for the phone number.

As for car crapx, there are those that hold this as the definitive word on car condition. It isn't as only reported repairs show up and reported repairs are sometimes inaccurate.

My SL320 was tagged as having moderate rear damage somewhere along the way. In reality the bumper cover was changed and a 1/2" deep dent pushed out of the spare tire well. The bumper bar and styrofoam stuffer were untouched, hardly what I'd consider moderate damage.

Buy the car for what it is not for what the odometer / car crapx says. Always have a mechanic check the car over prior to purchase.

vstech · #12 11-02-2013, 06:39 PM

You can Google the VIN and find a lot about a car too

t walgamuth · #13 11-03-2013, 08:46 AM

coupes are identical in all mechanics. From firewall forward identical. Dash is identical. Trunk lid identical bumpers and lights identical. All other body parts are coupe specific including doors rear fender and roof with front and rear screens. seat sits 2" lower. The only thing that seems to wear more on the coupe is the window lift mechanisms.

vstech · #14 11-03-2013, 09:50 AM

front fenders are not identical...

scottmcphee · #15 11-03-2013, 10:24 AM

You can find age of car by cutting any unibody component in half and count the rings. One per year.