I am getting some water in my rear area and since it is right where the top of the door is I am guessing it is the seal that needs replacement.

I went to the dealer and it is about $100 for a new seal.

My question is when I pull the old seal and clean the channel what kind of sealant do I use to secure the new rubber?

I've never replaced a door or window seal.

Before going through all that, are your dust boots in decent shape around the tailgate shocks?

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hum.....
1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed

I'll post some photos in the morning.

Sorry for the delay in posting photos. I got too busy....

The boots look ok to me.

I cleaned the channel of the debris - there is still some green in there, but it is better.

Right side | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Left side | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

middle | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

you should upload the pics to the forum, so they won't go away when your flickr account changes...
I tried to do it for you, but you have the images protected...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I did not see a button to add them - normally I would.

Uploaded....

Sorry for the brain fart.

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I just went out and checked the car and there is a lot of moisture at the very top of the tailgate.

Since water always runs down I am pretty sure it has to be that gasket seal. The area around the tailgate shocks looked pretty dry.

So if I buy this new gasket for the door - what kind of chemical sealant do people use and what is the best way to remove what is there - scrape it off or use some chemical cleaner?

your seals are chewed up in places and they look pretty compressed compared to mine.. i'd try to replace them and see if it helps. btw. love the red interior

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hum.....
1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed

Exactly which seals are you talking about?
If it is the seals in the corners that is the area that is actually dry.
The middle is where I am seeing moisture. And it is covering the inside of the window.

Funny thing about the red interior. I may switch it over to black this summer. Right now I have gray seats in the front. The original seats were pretty trashed and they tried to "fix" the passenger seat and just messed it up. I am looking into rebuilding the original seats. I have a lot of 124 seats and have been experimenting with them.

Enough water got in that it froze now and I cant get the tailgate to open because it is frozen shut........

I am not sure if you can tell but that is ice all over those windows - on the inside.

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Easy job. Remove the old tailgate seal and clean any residue from the old contact cement. Apply any type of automotive seal cement or contact cement for rubber seals. Available at any parts store. Follow directions, usually you need to apply a thin coat to the seal channel and the mating surface of the seal, let dry until tacky, and then another light coat of sealant on the channel and then carefully fit the seal into place. It just fits into place, there are no other bonding agents other than the sealant cement, no hidden clips or what not.

Given your icing situation, you will need to do this job at room temperature in oder to do it right, so you will need to garage it in a warm place.

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Tonight I am going to back it down into my carport and put a small space heater in it to dry it out completely.

The problem with the car right now is that the turbo is passing oil into the exhaust - I need to get the turbo rebuilt. I am hoping to take the spare turbo that I pulled this summer to the shop in the next couple of weeks. I want to be driving this car soon.....

I just did my rear hatch seal a few weeks ago (before it got too cold). The old one came right out. It was very compressed in most areas, and I was getting moisture in several areas, especially on the driver's side lower area - and it was getting wet in my storage bin as well. I scraped rust and other undesirables away after the old one came out. the Despot actually sells a proper 3M "automotive rubber" spray-on adhesive - i think it was about $10, maybe $15 max. I followed the directions on the can and installed the new hatch seal (i couldn't find anyone but adsitco who had it; and yeah, I think it was about $90) without any problems. Our November rains have come a little bit late this year, but thus far, nice and dry around the rear hatch. I definitely should've done this repair a long time ago. Also...and I don't know if you experience same - my passenger side rear door also seemed leaky. The carpet down there would be fairly damp after each rain. adsitco also had the rear door seals for our cars - i spoke to Peachparts by telephone, and they did not stock this item either. $80 well spent and now my car is dry again. what a difference! i might do all the other door seals next summer.

hope that helps!!

josh

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Cantabridgian

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1987 300TD Black/Palomino 120k on donor engine (thank you CS), 305k on everything else

MISSED 1985 300CD Blue/Palomino 250k lovely but had to part with it; now wife has Jetta TDI, you know how it goes

These replies have been very helpful. I backed the car into the carport tonight. Hopefully I'll replace the seal later this week.

I attached a photo showing the oil that spilled out of the exhaust from moving the car about 15 feet. I need to get the turbo rebuilt. That and this seal issue is hopefully the last things and then I can make this my daily driver.

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