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  #1  
Old 12-02-2013, 07:40 PM
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$5,000 for a 300SDL?

With a $5,000 budget to buy a 1986-87 300SDL, what kind of condition can I expect? I'm planning to use this car as my daily driver (130 mile roundtrip 4 days a week) and need something reliable for a good highway cruiser.

I'm not real familiar under the hood, but I'm also not afraid to get my hands dirty and learn to do some of the easier maintenance. Knowing that "there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes", what am I in for? Is $5,000 a good budget to work with?

Also, how much would you set aside for monthly or annual maintenance?

Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 12-02-2013, 08:04 PM
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Location: La Conner, WA
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What area of the country are you located in?

-J
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.
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  #3  
Old 12-02-2013, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
What area of the country are you located in?

-J
I live in Michigan, but I also spend a lot of time in Austin, TX. I'd only be driving it in Michigan, but if there is a good 300SDL in the Austin/Dallas/Houston/San Antonio area I could always drive it back up north.
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2013, 09:00 PM
compu_85's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: La Conner, WA
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I moved from MI to VA 2.5 years ago

Rust will be a big issue on Michigan cars. They also won't hold up well to the salt, and you'll find they feature no-wheel-drive in the ice.

As people noted in your other thread these cars are getting old now, and lots of things need replacement. MB used a ton of rubber bushings in the driveline which are all going to be perished by now.

FWIW I paid $5500 for my SDL in 2008. I found hidden rust, and I've put probably another $3000 into repairs over the years. These are not the cheapest cars to run. Parts availability is also becoming a problem... you either have crap chinese parts that will fail in a month for $30, or OE Mercedes that will last but cost $160.

-J
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2013, 10:30 PM
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Location: Barrington, RI
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For $5000 you ought be able to get a very nice SDL without about 200k miles with everything and I mean EVERYTHING working and very minimal or no rust. If you find that car available, and you really like SDLs, you should be willing to pay $5k.

Over the long haul, I would plan on spending 15-20 cents per mile for maintenance and repairs (or less, to the extent you do your own work).
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2013, 10:42 PM
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Location: Barrington, RI
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And find a car in Texas if possible.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #7  
Old 12-02-2013, 10:44 PM
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Location: Chelmsford, Massachusetts
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Hmm. Some thoughts.

If you are down in Texas regularly, then I would definitely look there also. If MI is like New England at all, then most cars will have some rust somewhere. Of course, since you are looking for a pristine car, that will have a higher chance of showing up just about anywhere rather than in a specific region. A bad interior is not necessarily a reason to turn down an otherwise nice car, as swapping in a pristine interior is a relatively clean & easy job that can be done in pieces for >$1000 in parts.

How much work are you willing to do? Are we talking difficulty or time expended? Your costs will definitely go down as you do more yourself . I'm assuming that maybe 40% of shertex's expenses are due to using a mechanic.

How familiar are you with these cars? I'm assuming that you know something about these because you are not considering a 350SDL . Does a #14 head mean anything to you?

These cars are awesome, and if you want to and can reasonably put yourself into one, that would be great. We'll always here to help!

I know that Brian will ask you, but do you have a second vehicle?
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Last edited by Mölyapina; 12-02-2013 at 11:00 PM.
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  #8  
Old 12-02-2013, 10:51 PM
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Location: Chelmsford, Massachusetts
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daw_two has a 300SDL with 157,000 and a recently rebuilt engine & transmission. He's maybe asking a little more than I would give given the bodywork issues, ($4200, he lowers the price in the last post), but it's definitely worth a ping. A rebuilt engine with a #20 is a big perk, and Daw is a good guy.

Here's the listing: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=338498
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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  #9  
Old 12-03-2013, 08:37 AM
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They call MI the rust belt for a reason. If you are regularly in the south, I'd start my search there
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  #10  
Old 12-03-2013, 08:44 AM
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Location: New England
Posts: 979
Yeah, look for a W210 turbodiesel that's been in the South. Will be more economical to run.

These cars don't "run for ever" unless you apply endless $$$$.
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  #11  
Old 12-03-2013, 09:32 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Central Kentucky
Posts: 1,069
I have two, both '86s. Look for:
-little or no rust-anywhere, like where the front thrust rods bolt to body. Pull up the rear window gasket at the bottom outside corners and look there. Under battery tray and same place on the driver's side. In (under) the chrome center strip in the front bumper. In the trunk lid and around the taillights. Bottom of doors. Pull up the floor mats and padding. Have a good look at the fuel and brake lines. Under/behind the plastic body molding/cladding.
-#20 or better head. The '86 models seemed to last a bit longer since they did not come with the dreader trap oxidizer. They did however come with a #14 head and eventually they do all seem to crack. Also run the engine and look for liquid bubbling up arouind the injectors at the head. Usually means cracked prechambers. I'm just living with a bad one at this point.
-rubber front suspension parts have been replaced. There is a lot of rubber up there to give a nice ride I guess. it doesn't last forever. Most of it is not terrible to replace, just bite the bullet and buy the real MB parts. Become good friends with the parts manager at the dealership or shop other dealerships that advertise. MB of Westchester in Cincinnati will cut deals for MB club members and one of the guys there (Mike)is a 126 nut case like me. Also Tom Hanson at the classic center can get almost anything you need and is one of the best guys I have ever dealt with.
-Ball joints. Should be fairly new. They last awhile but are a bit of a pain if you don't have the magic tool ($$$$) to remove/replace them. I have done several sets by substituting (cubic) curse words for the magic tool.
-Rear axle shafts should not click or make any noise (listen taking off or in slow turns).
- rear lower control arms can rust. Check for rust hole in the bottom. Can be replaced with parts from salvage yard.
-Interior will probably be toast in the south and hot west. Should be able to replace from a rusted model from up north.
-Odometers fail (little blasted plastic gears), so verify mileage with receipts or such.
-All that said, for a long daily comute, a 126 is a great way to go. Quiet, very comfortable ride that will leave you rested when you arrive. If the cruise control works, even more so. 23-27 mpg was my experience at 70 mph. They seem to have a sweet spot for mileage so a little careful experimentation may find the best for you. One SDL I had seemed to do better at 80 vs 70. Made no sense at all but I was driving long distance several time a week when mom was sick and got a chance to check.
For $5000, you should be able to really pick and choose.

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