New to me 1982 300SD...sat for 10 years! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

indybenz · #1 12-04-2013, 01:44 PM

I recently became the proud (?!) owner of Goldie that I paid a very very very nominal amount for as they owner needed it to 'go away'. She sat for 10 years with the power sunroof slightly open (it's closed now) and slightly covered with plastic and duct tape and ???. Needless to say, she's got some rust damage I can see, and perhaps some I cannot see. Mostly, the biggest problem is that the trunk wheel wells are rusted through and only held together by the rubber undercoating, and the windshield seals are completely dried and cracked and must be leaking. I will say that I'm impressed the heat/defrost still work and the main crank gasket does not leak, so there isn't oil covering every accessory under the hood like on my daily driver 83 300D!

I'm curious what folks here would add to what I've done already to get her to a decent working condition. This is not going to be a show car. I simply want her to go, shift, and stop when necessary, and have defrost for cold days. I'm a simple guy, what can I say?

So far I have:
1. bled brakes until new fluid came out at each caliper
2. drained coolant and added new coolant (not MB, just whatever 50/50 mix)
3. changed oil/filter
4. added fresh diesel (to whatever garbage was in the tank) and ran it using the makeshift 5 gal plastic tank rather than the stock one
5. changed fuel filter (primary was fine, canister was replaced)
6. purchased B2 piston (trans filter/gasket also) to hopefully remedy tranny issues
7. I plan on doing a valve adjustment, timing chain check, and compression test
8. visually (not with a pic or anything yet) inspected the 'common' rust areas and structurally it seems sound. At least it's 65% better than the car I'm driving now...which says something but not much ;-)

So I'm not a super meticulous guy, but I think I've covered most of my basics for safety related issues. What am I missing? Suggestions?

TnBob · #2 12-04-2013, 02:01 PM

Sitting for 10 yrs means you will be needing to flush the fuel tank.

sassparilla_kid · #3 12-04-2013, 02:33 PM

I say drive it like you stole it to get that engine good and hot, to break any carbon loose

JamesDean · #4 12-04-2013, 02:59 PM

Ha, my one 300SD is the exact same color! What color is your interior?

A lot of rust can go hidden on these cars. The best approach is to just start with a wires wheel and clean off the undercoating in suspect areas.

I've got a few photo albums that show where mine rusted.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/288453-300sd-rust-restoration-project.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/304380-300sd-rust-restoration-project-2-a.html

Also you should check out FixMyRust.com and Klokerholm, both have some replacement panels that you might find useful.

JamesDean · #5 12-04-2013, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by indybenz

So far I have:
1. bled brakes until new fluid came out at each caliper
2. drained coolant and added new coolant (not MB, just whatever 50/50 mix)
3. changed oil/filter
4. added fresh diesel (to whatever garbage was in the tank) and ran it using the makeshift 5 gal plastic tank rather than the stock one
5. changed fuel filter (primary was fine, canister was replaced)
6. purchased B2 piston (trans filter/gasket also) to hopefully remedy tranny issues
7. I plan on doing a valve adjustment, timing chain check, and compression test
8. visually (not with a pic or anything yet) inspected the 'common' rust areas and structurally it seems sound. At least it's 65% better than the car I'm driving now...which says something but not much ;-)

2. You should use Zerex G-05, available from Napa for like $12-15 per gallon. I think you only need two. Its the same as the MB stuff.
5. You should probably replace that filter after like 500 miles, it'll probably be stuck up with whatever is in the tank. Might also want/need to change/clean the tank stainer.
6. There is also a spring kit available that might help with whatever issues you are having. Superior Transmissions make it I believe.

8. Most common areas:
1) Sway Bar Exit Holes
2) Under batter/fuse box area
3) Subframe/body tube/horn area
4) Jack points
5) Rear Wheel wells
6) Under rear window in trunk

9. you said window seals were shot on the front /back? If you have the rear replaced, use MB for the seal, not aftermarket.

indybenz · #6 12-04-2013, 11:28 PM

2. very good to know thank you!
5. just cleaned the tank strainer on my 300D (actually, it wasn't very dirty *at all* which surprised me), so I know how to do that!
6. ten 4
8. my 300D has all of those problems except the one under the rear window. I have purchased but not yet used MiraclePaint (from Bergsma at **************). We'll see how far that little can will get me.
9. I have a name of a guy that might do the glass for me. If I can avoid having it done, I'd prefer to just leave it for now. But I don't know safety/leak-wise the proper course of action. I could try to do that myself, but the thought of breaking one/both front/back is too much to bear.

Cleaning the fuel tank (somehow) is on the list.

Drive it like I stole it...you just sassin' me?!

I have not yet learned all the official colors, so I'll say the interior is 'dark brown' :-) The car obviously was very damp inside for a long, long, long time. The mildew smell is quite apparent. I'm considering doing what I did with the 300D and just taking out most/all of the carpet and sound deadening to check for rust and eliminate some of the smell (I'm terribly allergic to mold so I have to be careful about that...boo hoo ;-) )

Thanks everybody for the assistance/ideas/advice!

JamesDean · #7 12-05-2013, 12:18 AM

We had safe lite do my dad's 300SD. They did a OK job on the rear but the front glass started to leak after a year or two. I'd recommend taking it to a better glass shop. Safelite was like $350 for rear with new glass.

Here are a few pics of my 82 300SD. I believe the interior color is called Brazil.

indybenz · #8 12-05-2013, 12:35 AM

That's it! Same color interior. Although mine is quite faded and there is a debate as to whether the greenish tint is mold or it's just faded or ??? Pics to follow in the relatively near future. Thanks so much JamesDean for the advice. I looked at the entire 300SD rust repair thread and am emboldened to do the floor pans in my 300D. I have access to an old stick welder, but I may cough up the chump change for a new flux welder from Harbor Freight to have experience with that as well. Some students from the local technical high school who are doing much of the welding as they are certified and have experience, at least classroom experience. This will be an opportunity for them to get 'real world' experience before they actually get their first welding jobs. Cheers!

jake12tech · #9 12-05-2013, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by indybenz

That's it! Same color interior. Although mine is quite faded and there is a debate as to whether the greenish tint is mold or it's just faded or ??? Pics to follow in the relatively near future. Thanks so much JamesDean for the advice. I looked at the entire 300SD rust repair thread and am emboldened to do the floor pans in my 300D. I have access to an old stick welder, but I may cough up the chump change for a new flux welder from Harbor Freight to have experience with that as well. Some students from the local technical high school who are doing much of the welding as they are certified and have experience, at least classroom experience. This will be an opportunity for them to get 'real world' experience before they actually get their first welding jobs. Cheers!

The greenish tint is because it's faded. The brown carpets tend to do that with sun and age. I'd use the stick welder. I'm not sure how well the Harbor Freight would hold up in such situation.