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#1
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ball bearing / vacuum question
I found some small ball bearings when I drained the oil on my '87 300 SDL. I have 9 and I am still trying to fish the others out to see if I can find all 12 as I understand there are 12 in the vacuum pump. I have had no vacuum issues and I still don't although I haven't driven the car since I found the ball bearings. After doing some research here I am still a little confused. If I still have good vacuum, can I assume correctly that the vacuum pump has been replaced by the previous owner but they didn't take the time to fish out all of the bearings and plastic pieces? How can I be sure that my pump is ok? Do I remove the pump? Is there a way to tell if I have the new style that doesn't fail easily? Should I remove the oil pan and try to clean out any plastic and other trash that may be there from the vacuum pump failure? I want to do what is right because I want to drive this car many more years. Thanks in advance for your help. You folks are always a big help!
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#2
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It sounds like you're finding remnants of a prior pump failure. You can remove the side compartment of the oil pan to fish around with a magnet. You want a pump with a roller that looks like this -
There's an interim style pump with shields over the bearing balls. I don't know if that style pump has a history of failure. Sixto 87 300D |
#3
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Sixto,
Thanks for the reply and the picture. We have had a bad winter storm, for here anyway. When it thaws out I will use your magnet suggestion. Is there anyway to tell which vacuum pump I have by looking at the outside of it? I know it has a Mercedes stamp on it and there is a cover on it that looks like it can be "popped" off. |
#4
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Removing the cover will not reveal the bearings. You'll need to pull the pump off the engine to do this. Not particularly difficult, just remove the vacuum line and then the allen bolts holding it to the block. Make note of the orientation and re-install it the same way. You'll just need a new gasket.
__________________
1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
#5
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If the front plate of the pump doesn't have 4 screw heads, you don't have a new style pump. If it has 4 screw heads, it's very likely a new style pump but the screw heads are no guaranty. There's a date code on the pump that's about impossible to read installed -
Maybe you can take a shading to read in better light. Having the date code is one thing, knowing what it means is another. I suppose you can poll the forum for date codes earlier than yours on new style pumps. Sixto 87 300D |
#6
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Lower oil sump
If you haven't already, drop your lower oil pan to see what else is in there. It's not hard to do. Get a new gasket and a couple of extra bolts to replace those you will lose. You will lose your new oil change but it is better than having pieces and parts loose in the sump.
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#7
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Thanks again Sixto and the other two folks that posted!
This should get me on my way. Mine doesn't have any screws so I guess I still have the old style pump. Looks like I should get a couple of gaskets so I can pull the pump and the oil pan. |
#8
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Mind the vacuum pump gasket you buy. Early engine serial numbers require what's called a dam gasket. The lower quarter of the gasket is filled in. If you don't need a dam gasket, you have a choice of metal or fiber gaskets.
Sixto 87 300D |
#9
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Here's one for you, a pump with late style front cover but early style roller bearings - '84 95 W126 W124 Mercedes OM603 OM602 Diesel Engine Vacuum Pump P N 0002303065 | eBay
You can see the date code of 93 T 236. Sixto 87 300D |
#10
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Thanks again for both of these replies.
Have great day. PH |
#11
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What about THIS one?
Quote:
I've read (maybe not absorbed fully) too many threads on vacuum-pumps at this point. Seems in particular that Sixto & gsxr speak with authority, certainly on a simple question like mine: do I indeed have something to fear from my vac pump, 1983 300SD (OM617), as pictured? If it matters, it's stamped with the Pierburg name/logo. I can pretty easily pull the pump at this point if need be to look for the roller/camfollower per Sixto's photo, but I can't well afford a "replace it just in case" pump right now. A little help? Make sure no plastic-caged bearings? Really necessary to pull it? Thanks - Dave
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'83 300SD - daily driver '97 Dodge Cummins '60 & '64 Minis ...etc... |
#12
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Quote:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/339870-more-than-you-likely-ever-want-know-about-om61x-piston-vacuum-pumps.html (links to other threads too)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#13
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Here is your other thread.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/361937-still-more-vac-pump-id-confusion.html Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#14
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It might be beneficial to remove the Vacuum Pump to inspect it and also the cam area on the Timer; to make sure cam area was not damaged and someone put a New Vacuum Pump over that.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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