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  #1  
Old 12-12-2013, 06:41 AM
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Clutch Issues

I'm having a clutch issue not terribly unlike the one in the thread below.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/347106-strange-manual-transmission-behavior.html

The clutch doesn't release fully when the car is cold. It gets better after it warms up. It worked fine for the first three years after the manual swap, and continued working well even when the old clutch master was leaking externally onto the floorboard. I replaced that master cylinder in September about 2000 miles ago, but was unable to get it to bleed. I had a shop do it, and it worked okay for a little while, but then started feeling like it got another gulp of air in it. I had them bleed it again recently, but they were unable to get it to work right, with a large free travel of the pedal with very light effort before anything started to release. They suggested a possible failing master cylinder. It seemed odd for a less than three month old MC to be failing, but after reading the other thread, I think this may be the case. There is no external leakage. The other thing is that the slave cylinder is about seven years old. Is there a good way to tell whether it's the master or slave that's bad?

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83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
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88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
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  #2  
Old 12-12-2013, 06:52 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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If the slave is leaking it should come out and drip down so a visual examination should reveal it if that is the issue. Your friction point should be fairly close to the top of the pedal travel....perhaps starting about 20 to 25% from the top of the total travel.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

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  #3  
Old 12-12-2013, 09:37 AM
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I would just replace the slave, since its fairly cheap and easy.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #4  
Old 12-12-2013, 09:49 AM
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Bleeding the clutch is quick and easy if you can find a good squirt can. The first one I bought at Harbor Freight leaked like crazy.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #5  
Old 12-12-2013, 01:05 PM
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My first thought was maybe moisture in the Slave could have froze. Since you are having this cold spell there. But you said you had it bled recently.

Could be the MC leaking internally.


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #6  
Old 12-13-2013, 06:01 PM
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Here's what I'm trying: I put a drop light with a 60W bulb under the master cylinder when I first got up. It should heat the master with minimal effect on the slave. I figure if I have a fully releasing clutch when I leave to go to work in about a half hour, I will have identified the problem. The other problem is that I can't find the receipt for the master cylinder. I haven't checked the trunk yet.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
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