How do you stab the axle into the wheel hub? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

SD Blue · #1 12-22-2013, 09:21 AM

Ok, I'm getting a little frustrated and decided to sleep on it overnight. I can't seem to get the axles positioned to insert them into the wheel hub. I've got the wheel and the brake calipers removed but I need ~1" more to get it to go in.

Right now, I've got the differential mounted on the subframe but not to the rear differential mount as I had to drop it a little to get the axles to go into the differential. They are now inserted and clipped.

Maybe the overnight break will help me see things in a different light. Is there an ideal position the differential needs to be in, or wheel carrier, to get the axles to slip into the hub?

Rockyriver · #2 12-22-2013, 09:38 AM

Did you look in the tech section here?
Maybe this will help.

PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Axles

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vstech · #3 12-22-2013, 10:06 AM

it's tight, but the hubs need to be dangling, and the diff needs to be jacked up SOLID against the floorpan...

SD Blue · #4 12-22-2013, 10:33 AM

I'm going to remove the rear differential mount and jack it up to see if there is enough flex in the subframe to give me the little bit more I need.

vstech · #5 12-22-2013, 11:06 AM

oh... be sure you totally compress the axles... there is a lot of slop in them, and if you are dangling them, they get long...

also, pull out on the spindle... helps to have a helper.

The Gears · #6 12-22-2013, 02:18 PM

I do the axle insertion into the wheel hub on each side with the diff on a floor jack. After the insertion is started I raise the diff into position and finish the installation. Don't forget the axle bolts.
Years back with my first 240 I made a plate from a 6" long piece of 1" x 3" x 1/8" angle that adapts to the floor jack and bolts to the two lowed holes on the diff. Makes it real easy to slide the diff with axles around under the car.

SD Blue · #7 12-22-2013, 09:47 PM

I finally got the axles to insert into the hubs! However, I had to backtrack and lower the differential, insert the axles and raise it into place. What a PIA. The frustrating part is the differential mounting is precise enough that all four mounting bolts have to be inserted in unison or not at all. You can't start two and then rock it to insert the others. Working on cardboard in an unpaved driveway just added to the frustration.

My hopes were being revived. I've been trying to install a 2.47 differential (85/560 SEL) and annular axles (87/420 SEL).The diffential is in, the axles are bolted, the brake calipers are reinstalled, the wheels are mounted and alas.......the differential driveshaft yoke is a different size! From what I can tell, it takes a special socket to remove it as well. Nuts!

Please tell me it is just a matter of swapping the yoke from the previous differential to the one I just installed!

vstech · #8 12-22-2013, 10:01 PM

that is all you need to do... it should be held on with a 30mm 12point socket... deep of course... get the torque specs for the nut... of course, it may be a preload spec... so you may need to measure your preload before you remove the nut, and reset it when you've swapped the yoke...
you could also steal the driveshaft from the donor car, and forgo the yoke swap...

SD Blue · #9 12-22-2013, 10:15 PM

Hmmm....30mm deep? That is special in itself. I'm guessing 3/4 drive. I have a 3/4 drive set but no deep sockets.. Oh well, what's another tool.

I thought about the driveshaft swap but this is off an SEL from a PickNPull. If it is even there, isn't the length different for an SD vs an SEL?

What do you mean by "preload"? I've heard the term before but never knew what it was.

vstech · #10 12-22-2013, 11:16 PM

mine is a 1/2" drive. works fine.

charmalu · #11 12-23-2013, 01:13 AM

Sam, here is a few threads on the Friction Pre-Load on the Pinion Nut.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/233540-pinion-seal-replacement-how-determine-friction-load.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/performance-paddock/81784-setting-12-point-nut-diff-pinion-flange.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/318195-pinion-bearing-nut-preload-question.html

Hope these help.

Charlie

MBeige · #12 12-23-2013, 01:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

it's tight, but the hubs need to be dangling, and the diff needs to be jacked up SOLID against the floorpan...

I remember having to do this as well before. It's an odd geometry but this did the trick. Removing the axles is the opposite.

SD Blue · #13 12-23-2013, 02:10 PM

Thanks Guys!
I found a 1/2" drive 30mm deep socket at Northern Tool. Titan Axle Nut Socket — 30mm, 1/2in. Drive, 12 Point, Model# 15230 | Axle Nuts Sockets| Northern Tool + Equipment

The information about pre-load is pretty simple, now that I know how it's done.

Looks like it's a couple of tools for a Christmas gift to myself.

BWhitmore · #14 12-23-2013, 02:57 PM

Pre-load is the amount of twisting power or torque (usually measured in inch pounds or whatever the metric equivalent is) to actually turn the differential pinion. If you have a foot pound torque meter (with a dial), you can get pretty close. Using a click type torque wrench makes it a little tougher.

charmalu · #15 12-23-2013, 09:46 PM

This is the type of Torque Wrench you need.

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Charlie