1997 E300D NonTurbo While fixing leak, overtightened the ip valves now it leaks a lot
 

I have read a lot on this website and this is my first time posting. I really appreciate all the useful information out there:) So this is my problem. What happened is I moved to Cali, towed my car behind a uhaul truck. After I got here, it started leaking fuel. I read up extensively on the problem and bought new o-rings and crusher seals. I changed them out and sure enough the o-rings were brittle and dry. Since I had just moved here I didn't have a lot of money so I couldn't get a torque wrench. I hand tightened it, I wanted to make sure it was a snug fit. Now I know I tightened it too much. I put everything back together and the small fuel leak turned into a lot of fuel pouring out the bottom of the car. I then removed everything on top so I could see where it was leaking and had my girlfriend turn over the engine. I could see fuel coming from the base of the valves. Is this IP toast? Can I rebuild it if it is? I read somewhere that if you overtighten you have a chance of warping the body. When I tightened it, two of the valves popped from overtightening. I retightened it again, but just before they popped again. Should I remove the valves and try everything again (this time with a torque wrench) or am I wasting my time and should get a new ip. I'll hate myself if I can't fix this:( Thanks in advance for replying! Happy Holidays as well. :D

When mbdoc talks, you listen! http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/173991-om60_series-ip-delivery-valve-reseal.html

Sixto
87 300D

Thanks a lot! Lots of good information on that pdf! I don't have time to review in depth, it's bedtime for me and the girlfriend. Will reply more later. Thanks:)

This is a link and pictorial on how to do the job. Pay particular attention to the torque specs. Good luck!!


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/211801-om606-engine-w210-e300d-td-delivery-valve-seals.html

a hydraulics technician once told me that whenever a copper washer is being used as the seal, first make sure its really soft (anneal it if not) and when tightening it before coming up to final torque - about 10% short loosen and tighten the bolt/nut about 5 times, then finally torque it down.

I also follow this on the oil sump washer and the ATF pan washer too. It doesnt even seep.

I have read up on the directions found on this website, even before I attempted the fix. What I need to know is, when I tightened them, two of the valves popped. I tightened them again and they seemed to pop more easily. The pop is what worries me a lot. Thank You very much Zulfiqar for your input. I will attempt your advice when I get the courage to work on this again:)

I'm thinking that the crusher seals is what is causing it to massively leak because I didn't do something right with them like Zulfiqar pointed out, they're not sealing right. I hope that's it:) Because otherwise I am afraid I have to get a new ip:/ The pops that happened when I tightened is what scares me. I tightened all six valves and retightened them like 4 times so there was probably a good amount of pressure being applied (I'm strong). I didn't know until I read more online that it's really easy to overtighten them. I just can't find anywhere online that someone has said anything about the "pop"

I'm not sure what POPPED means... do you mean the threads let go? did something CRACK?
I cannot imagine your IP is repairable... the tightening sequence, and spec is fairly strict. I wish you luck!

it just makes sense that I destroyed the ip but I'm hoping I can just buy a new set of crusher washers and o-rings instead of a new ip and do it right with the torque wrench, as well as the sequence

Thanks I'll need the luck vstech!:) There was no crack, it was a pop like it jumped a thread and reseated, it was a tight sounding pop, not a loose pop

I tightened it again and it popped again, more easily. So maybe it jumped a thread and damaged or expanded the metal so it leaks. I just hope it's the crusher washers

I suspect you may have cross threaded either the block and/or the stub. The injection pressure is high and I am afraid you are done for. Take a look at the thread of the stub and see if there is any damages. Try swapping different stub to another location and see whether it can be tighten good. Alternately is to use teflon tape as a last resort.

That is some really good information (and I thought I knew everything -haha jk). I'll definitely have to try that. I've never used teflon tape, only plumbers tape. That's real good advice, swapping the valves into the other holes and checking the threads for damage:D I hope someone else can have some more advice. I think I'll get the courage to try this again:)