I changed my ignition switch, and am in the process of reassembling, but I can't get the wheel lock to disengage again. Per the FSM, I removed the lock cylinder (in pos I), loosened the collar between the steering column, and lgnition assembly, and then turned the wheel to provide better access to the screws that hold the switch on. Now, I can't get the wheel unlocked again. When I insert the cylinder into the assembly (and drop the little tab with a wire), it goes in in pos I (of course), but I can't get the steering lock to disengage. I have also tried to manually push the locking pin down with the key and cylinder in place, but I can't press it far enough to clear the hole. As it is, I can't turn the key at all when the cylinder is in place. The key cylinder is in good shape, and I don't really want to drill the pin out if I can avoid it.

What should I do?

This is in the 1979 240d

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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

Without the Lock Tumbler installed you should be able to stick somthing inside that substitutes for the Lock Tumbler like a Screwdriver or needle Nose Pliers and rotate the Steering Colum Lock. If you cannot do that something else is wrong.

I know in My case what I thought was a Lock Tumbler issue turned out to be the Steering Colum Lock was broken.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

What were your symptoms which caused you to do this? The locking bolt can become disconnected from the end of the ignition switch assembly. If that is the case, the wheel is locked and turning the key won't unlock it. In that case, the only way to remove the ignition assembly is to drill out that spring loaded locking pin.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I bought this set today of Diamond Drill Bits in a set of 50. maybe something might work drilling out the Pin?


50 Piece Diamond Rotary Point Set

$19.99 but with a 25% Coupon cameto $16.11.

I haven`t had to drill out one....yet.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

you should be able to remove your tumbler, and manually reach the lock key, and remove it that way.
I've got a 78 assembly sitting on the shelf if you need pictures or something...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I have some of those and it would take along time to grind of that bump of metal with them.
The little Dremel Tool type Cutoff Wheels are Faster and they have diamond Cutoff Wheels if that is what you prefer.

Actually 1-2 inch Grinding Stone on a 1/4" Drill Motor would do the job faster.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If the Lock Tumbler is removed and the Ignition Switch is also removed that eliminates them as the source of the problem.

If after that the Steering Colum Lock can not be turned you have some issue with the Steering Colum Lock mechanism.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I removed the tumbler and ignition switch and could not turn the assembly or move the steering wheel. So I drilled out the pin and removed the assembly. I used some needlenose pliers and pushed back the pin attached to the vacuum switch and was able to spin it on the bench. I put the new ignition switch in place and confirmed I could move the switch to all positions (also felt the proper resistance in the 'start' position.

I am doing this because of the problems I describe here:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/347779-starting-woes.html

But, once I got the assembly + new switch in place and plugged it back in, I tried to bump the starter to see if I fixed anything, and it is the same.

When I move the key to the start position, I hear a change in the tone of the door chime, but the starter does not engage. No click, nothing.

As I describe in the linked thread, I have a new battery in place (also tested it on the 1980 240D and it fired right up), and the starter passed 3 consecutive bench tests at an O'Reillys.

The alternator is also working (14.2 V when the car was running), but of course right now I can't get the starter to engage at all so that seems irrelevant.


Edit: also, I just checked the battery and the voltage was 12.2V across the terminals, 12.2 V from the + terminal to the body, 12.2 V from the starter to the - terminal, and 12.2V from the starter to the battery. So it seems like the cables are ok.
Edit2: also just checked voltage with the key in the 'start' position and it dropped from 12.21v to 11V while the key was in position. Went back to 12 v when the key was released.

Edi3: Well it was the starter after all. Switched starters between the two cars and the 1980 didn't start and the 1979 did. So the starter is bad, even tho the bench test passed it. Trip back to the O'Reilly's tomorrow to get a warranty replacement.

__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT