What I have here is one of five fuel injectors I got from a junkyard OM617. When I tested it, it would not pop. I took apart the fuel injector and found out the needle valve will not come out even when lubricated with Liquid Wrench. I put the needle value stem a vise lined with wood and the needle valve would not break loose from the nozzle body.

Please take a look at the picture of the nozzle. It is bluish. According to this thread, http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/238060-pintle-seized-injector-nozzle-why.html , the heat shield was not replaced which caused the fuel injector to overheat and seize up.

How can I get this needle valve out?

OR

Is this a piece of junk?

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I don't think you will get it out without it reflecting some damage. Replace it.

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Jim

If it is rust in place it is no good.

If it is just dried up Fuel holding it it might be OK.

You can use a propane torch to heat up the outer part of the Nozzle and quickly put it in a Vice that has Aluminum or Coper Jaw Shields and try to pull the Pintle out.

You are going to have to judge how much heat is needed.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I wouldn't even bother...I would box them up and send them to member jamesdean....his prices are great....and his work even better....so why rebuild them your self anymore...

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Do you mean greazzer? jamesdean does cruise control

This has to be a DIY infraction. Shame on You.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

oops I sure did....thanks for correction

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You're welcome! He has done my 240's and has my 190's now.

He just did the ones out of my 300D. I got them back and they look FANTASTIC! Can't wait to get a day off of work to actually install them......

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

If you have the time, just hit it with PB Blaster over and over, and after about a few days, put the nozzle in a vice. Then, CAREFULLY, get a pair of vice grips and try to turn the pintle. If you get the pintle to spin, you should be OK. Put the vice grips perpendicular to the nozzle body and not up and down. However, that greenish blue color is indicative of high heat. I would guess that nozzle is toast, HOWEVER ... I actually have a number of nice Germans which have that heat colored effect, and they pop perfectly. So, it's worth a few minutes of your time as you never know.

The rainbow is conclusive proof = it is junk.

An ultrasonic cleaner might free it up, if you have nothing better to do.


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ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
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Technical Quality Auditor.
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1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

That is the way I read it.

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Jim

"The rainbow is conclusive proof = it is junk"

Not 100% accurate. If you have the time, I would give it a whirl. The age and wear and miles are a greater predicter of a worn nozzel. That heat colorization, if that is a word, suggests it's toast, but it may not be. Percentages are not on your side, unfortunately but a few minutes may be worth it.

When I get my euro back....he will be getting mine....installed rebuilt injectors with monark nozzles....but I was told by a shop one wasn't firing correctly...

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Throw it in the trash. You time is more valuable than fooling around with an injector nozzle that won't fire properly even if you unstick it. The nozzles are machined to very fine tolerances and if it is stuck, it has a major problem.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge