Now you will do pictures of that won't you?

Got mine out with out special tools
 

Here's how I got mine out with out special tools - well a hydraulic press and three equal length bolts =>

Posts #350 and #351

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/341121-achtung-das-schweinhund-baby-benz-thread-24.html#post3266257

(does damage the dust shield slightly - but I'm working on a solution for that)

OH, YEAH... I got LOTS of pics...

Today, I got the car back up on stands, and pulled the axle stub out... completely rust eaten inside the boot... looks like it was driven in snow for 10 years, and corrosion has taken it's toll... the axle shaft was eaten at least 50% the 26mm shaft was MAYBE 15mm where it broke...

lesson learned... just because the boots look good, DOES NOT MEAN THE AXLE IS SOUND!!! also, surface rust can equate to SERIOUS STRENGTH SACRIFICE!!!

I'll post up the pics... they are gruesome!

Bump for pictures

ickky...:eek:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...2&d=1389421809

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1389421783

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...3&d=1389421868

Wow, really surprised! Never would have thought the axle could rust when it should be so covered in CV grease.

Is that right by the clamp on the differential side? (no grease?)

Blinking 'eck...

...that could start a panic!

THIS is why I'm in favor of OIL in a CV joint boot, NOT GREASE!

this joint felt PERFECT, zero play or binding, full range of movement. the bulge in the axle is where the small end of the boot clamp goes. so this rust is from SALT corrosion trapped on the inside of the boot. rust started the damage on the outside of the boot, then salt, trapped on the edge of the boot worked itself into the boot, and began the rapid failure of the shaft. the grease looks intact, the joint was not dry at all, all the rust is on the shaft.

Daaaang, this may be the one of the worst rust failures I've heard of. Beats my power steering line (on a 5 year old car) wicking salt under a clamped connector and bulging the hose enough with corroded metal to leak out the system in a week.

tonight, I opened 8 more 124/201 axles, and all of them had rust from severe, to mild...

this is HORRIBLE!!!

I recommend EVERYONE WITH A 124 or a 201 (or even a 210, since they use the same axles...) pull their axles, and clean out the rust, and apply some additional grease to the shaft, and install new boots... EVERYONE!!!

This was the outer, right? Maybe I missed it earlier. Can't remember how bad that is for a w124, might just find out...Thanks for the warning!

every single one I opened up, had plenty of grease on the bearing balls, but zero on the axle shaft. not even a slight trace of grease on the axle... every single one was dry with powdery rust on it.

6 months to the day later, my car is home
 

What a long drawn out saga.

Started with me bringing the car up to vstech's last August to change the flex disks.

Once we got the car elevated, we realized not only were the flex disks toast but also:
- the differential was bad, it was groaning
- the suspension links were bad
- the subframe mounts were bad

so I ordered up a bunch of parts and we got to work.

In between John's dad passing, the weather, and our work schedules, we finally got everything finished yesterday.

Nearly everything behind the transmission got replaced or rebuilt.
- New Transmission mount
- New Flex disks
- New Center bearing
- Differential from a donor car
- Axles - twice - regreased and rebooted from a donor car
- New subframe mounts
- Subframe dismounted and cleaned
- New Differential mounts
- New Suspension links (all 4 on each side)
- LCAs from a donor car, mine had damage from a prior bottom out incident
- New LCA bushings
- New Spindle bushings
- Wheel carriers from a donor car
- Backing plates from a donor car
- New wheel bearings (twice)
- New o-ring for ABS sensor
- New parking brake shoes
- kept existing rear brake pads and rotors and SLS shocks, they were still good
- 4 wheel alignment
- New brake hoses all 4 corners
- Brake flush
- Oil and Filter change

We ended up having to use the differential out of the 93 300D 2.5. The differential out of the wagon that we were hoping to use had gear wear and some significant play when you manually twisted it. We opened it up and the oil was skanky and stunk badly. Using the 93 diff was not my first choice but the best one available to us.

So we had to create a hybrid driveshaft, the front half is my original and the back half is from the 93 300D due to the flange size difference. This diff had zero play or backlash and the oil was clear and smelled well, like oil should. We went ahead and flushed it out and changed the oil, and put in Castrol Synthetic 75/140 gear oil. We got lucky, there is no vibration at speed even though we put two random shafts together at a random orientation to each other.

We got everything together just as it was getting dark last night. John and I took the wagon for a test ride and everything was great. Car now handles like it is glued to the road.

My wife and I went back to Charlotte today to bring the wagon back. It drove nice and smooth at 70-75 mph all the way back to Columbia (90 miles) with no problems.

It's now with me for the shakedown cruise around Columbia this week. If I am happy with everything my son plans to come down next weekend to get it. He's been waiting 6 months and is ready to have it back.

it's been fun... that car was on BORROWED TIME for a disaster...SOOO glad we went through it with a fine tooth comb... SOOOO broke after buying all the tools to work on that car... but I've got 6 others that will need the same work... and hey, there's the rental program!