I'm finally back in a MB. I had a 77 300D while I lived in Hawaii, and got rid of it before coming back to Ohio.
My new girl is a brown 85' 300TD.

Problems I need to look into are the fuel gauge shows 3/4 full, and then next thing you know its down to 1/4.
Also, the radio doesn't work.. IDK if its a fuse or the radio is just kaput.
The car wouldn't start the past two days The guy I bought it from had to play with it and finally got it started, (I had to show him the block heater cord..he didn't know about it, after 3 years of ownership...)
Lastly, the driver seat is sagging and needs some rebuilding. Or replacing.

Glad to be back in a diesel!

Congrats and welcome.

No idea about the fuel gauge problem, but try searching the board here through Google (the built-in search engine is pretty useless): type the search terms into google followed by site: peachparts.com

There is lots of info on the net about rebuilding the seats. If want a quicker solution, you can try looking for a used seat bottom on the Used Parts for Sale and Wanted subforum here.

Post some pics. Never seen a brown TD....

Cheers

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Welcome to the Forum.

I looked for My Block Heater and did not find it. Several Years Later I found the Cord tightly wrapped and stuff up under the front Bottom of the Radiator.
However, I did not need it here in S CA.

I did not actually see the Block Heater until I removed the Manifolds and Turbocharger.

One of the Moderators orginized the Major threads into catagories to make it easier to look up various jobs.
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

It can be helpful to post the Milage and the general area you live in; especially concerning Hard Starting.
In the Cold Synthetic Oil is a big Help to the Cranking Speed and adjusting the Valves is a help at any temp.

Also concerning Starting problems. Saying a the Engine won't start does not narrow it down much. Engine Cranks but won't start narrows it down more.
I turn the Key an nothing happens or I only hear a Click also gives some clues as to what is going on.

This is not a recommendation to buy parts there but the Diesel Giant Website has a good pictorial on a fast check of the Glow Plugs under the title Glow Plug Repair.
Harbor Freight Stores sell inexpensive Digital Volt/Ohm Meters.

You likely know this from before but if you keep the Key in the Pre-glow position and ignore your Glow Plug Light you will get just about 30 seconds of Pre-glow time before your Glow Plug Relay Times Out and shuts off the Relay.
If you cycle the Key you can go for another 30 seconds of Pre-glow time.
That is handy when it is really cold or you have one dead Glow Plug.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The original Radio on mine has a Security Code and when the Battery removed or the Radio is removed you need to know the Code to restart it.

I don't know if this is the case with your Radio. When I got My Car the above was the Case. I repalced it with a cheap Cassette/Radio because I did not think it was worth the trouble to have someone reset the Code on it.
If you have never had the Radio Out it locks in and you need to use something to depress the locks.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Welcome to the forum

Clean out your fuel sender!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Welcome! I can almost guarantee the fuel gauge issue is an issue with the sender in the tank. Get a bottle of biobor from West Marine and put the prescribed amount in the tank and see if it clears it up.

X2 on the tank sender. This is pretty common to all cars, not just MB's. If it doesn't work at all that's a different set of issues.

The no-start can be a bit more involved. Assuming it cranks but fails to start it probably glow plug related and there are threads on this topic that far exceed my humble ability to enlighten you.

On the radio - pretty much any car audio center should diagnose that for free or cheap and recommend a fix. They do this all the time and it will likely be quicker and easier for you. Of course, they want to sell you a stereo and you might choose to go that way.

Dan

220k miles, columbus ohio.

The battery is at least 3 years old, and is 800 CCA.
The motor just cranks, and cranks, and cranks.

I'll go get the battery tested in an hour or so and report back, but I think that's the problem.

Glow plugs and valve adjustment would be the next place to go. Steer clear of Autolite's and Champions.

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'83 300D, 126K miles.

Autozone said battery was good but needed charged. We'll see what happens I guess. If the fully charged battery doesn't start the motor my in garage, its gonna be a GP/valve issue?

The previous owner said he hasnt had a problem with cold starts up until last week or so. It was his DD>

Yeah, GPs can be the problem, you can check the resistance with an ohm meter as a start.

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83 SD

84 CD

if the motor spins, but does not fire, and the air filter is clean, you need, heat, compression and fuel to start.
for heat, you need to verify if the glow plugs are heating up. the ohm test gives you an indicator if they are working, but physically hooking each one to a battery and watching them glow bright at the tip is the only way to know for sure. you can also unhook the large connector from the glow relay, then take a wire connected to the battery, and touch the nut on each glow plug and watch for a spark. that will show quickly if at least they are drawing amps.
if they all check out good, the next thing for hard cold starts is compression. disconnect the linkage, and remove the valve cover, and adjust the valves. you'll need bent wrenches to do it without removing the injectors or lines, but it can be done with patience with a pair of straight 14mm open ends. if you have a torch and a grinder you can make your own bent wrenches pretty easily. you'll also need a set of feeler gauges that has leaves for .004 and .012 inches (I find it near impossible to buy metric sized feelers) the above mention of DieselGiant.com is a good one, he's got nice pictorials on checking the valves, and the glow plugs. (many other nice tips on MB service too)

the next thing I'd check is the fuel filters. start with the clear one. is it clear or gritty? if gritty, or cloudy, change it. for the spin on, you should just change it, as there's no good way to check if it's clear or not. have a bottle of diesel or power service around to fill the filter before bleeding, so it is faster.
let us know your progress!
welcome to the forum!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Even though this was the PO DD, you have a car with unknown maintenance done to it except for what the PO told you.
You need to through the various systems to have a new base line to start from.

Adjust the valves.
Mercedes Diesel Valve Adjustment Procedure

Check out the GP`s
Mercedes Diesel Glow Plug Repair

Pull the fuel sender and clean it. Remove the First Aid kit and it will be right under it. Use a 46mm socket to loosen it. this thread is for a W124, but the same procedure for cleaning it. More links than you need, but will help the lurkers and Peanut gallery and noobies.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/231269-diy-w-pix-w124-fuel-sender-disassembly-cleaning-testing.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/277167-w123-300d-fuel-tank-sender-question.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/189366-fuel-sender-85-300d-cleaned-pics.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/136149-cleaned-fuel-sender-unit-300d.html


Replace the seat bottom if the Springs are broken. use a good passenger side W123 or even a w126 will swap right over. Just remove the seat tracks and back rest if a W126. The 126 spring box is the same and the 86 - 91 have an additional spring and the rubber foam pieces in the corner springs for more support.

I can`t help you with the Radio except to check the fuses for corrosion and clean the contacts. Do not use sand paper to clean the contacts. I read to use an eraser on a pencil.
I replaced mine in the 300D with an old Becker Analog, works every time. When 1/2 the owners manual is about operating the radio, I just said, "screw it" swapped it.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works