Steering Box R&R DIY - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pj67coll · #31 08-13-2017, 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edmundito

Do I have to take off the ignition switch or remove the whole steering column to remove the gear box? I need to replace the gasket on the oil filter housing, and there's a bolt that holds the housing which is close to impossible to take it out if I do not remove the gearbox first. The gearbox gives me less than 5mm clearance to stick an allen wrench, but I need more than this clearance to take the bolt off to be able to remove the housing.
Do I have to really take off the gearbox to get the oil filter housing off?
and to change the oil cooler lines, do I have to lift the engine, according to my observations, is it all of this necessary??????, beacuse the steering pump pulley robbs against the upper oil cooler line and is about to cut through it. I am in a big mess, I cannot believe these dumb german engineers on how they put this car together!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Having to take off gearbox to remove the oil filter housing gasket....
any help would be gladly appreciated....

The steering pump pulley rubbing against the oil filter hose has nothing to do with the steering gear or oil filter housing. The engine mounts have collapsed and need replacement.

As for the question regarding the steering gear box and the oil filter housing, I'm afraid others will have to chime in there.

- Peter.

unkl300d · #32 08-13-2017, 03:07 PM

Edmundito, look up the member, 'Sixto'.
PM him your question. He is has alot of expertise with the 300SD.

rotorguy · #33 09-30-2018, 10:05 AM

bump

rotorguy · #34 11-17-2018, 04:04 PM

martureo are you able to re-seal a box out of a 1991 R129 500SL?

JHZR2 · #35 11-17-2018, 05:51 PM

I think Id like to do this on at least one of my boxes, maybe more in time...

But I thought that rebuidlign would reduce/remove the ca. 1in of play in the box to something somewhat less. My read is that one may still need to tighten down the rebuilt box.

So how do you decide if/when you want to rebuild the box versus just tightening the one you have?

rocky raccoon · #36 11-17-2018, 08:28 PM

The W123 steering box adjustment is for friction, not play. Overtightening will result in a non-return to center and excessive wear.

JHZR2 · #37 11-17-2018, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocky raccoon

The W123 steering box adjustment is for friction, not play. Overtightening will result in a non-return to center and excessive wear.

Ok, but will the rebuilds noted here reduce play? I guess that's my fundamental question. I guess some use the adjustment to help slow/reduce the play as a bandaid.

So which does the rebuild do?

martureo · #38 11-17-2018, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Ok, but will the rebuilds noted here reduce play? I guess that's my fundamental question. I guess some use the adjustment to help slow/reduce the play as a bandaid.

So which does the rebuild do?

Yes. And no.

A rebuild (what I do and what C&M hydraulics do) is clean, replace all the seals and return the box to the best adjustment possible. If your box is worn it'll stay worn, there's simply no replacing hard parts (they aren't available and would be $450+ minimum). But, a rebuild might make the box operate a bit smoother and feel like a newer box.

When I break open a box I let the customer know if it's too wallered out to be worth resealing.

Just FYI, I charge $165 for a rebuild, $75 for a core and $55 shipping to CONUS.

Clemson88 · #39 11-18-2018, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edmundito

Do I have to take off the ignition switch or remove the whole steering column to remove the gear box? I need to replace the gasket on the oil filter housing, and there's a bolt that holds the housing which is close to impossible to take it out if I do not remove the gearbox first. The gearbox gives me less than 5mm clearance to stick an allen wrench, but I need more than this clearance to take the bolt off to be able to remove the housing.
Do I have to really take off the gearbox to get the oil filter housing off?
and to change the oil cooler lines, do I have to lift the engine, according to my observations, is it all of this necessary??????, beacuse the steering pump pulley robbs against the upper oil cooler line and is about to cut through it. I am in a big mess, I cannot believe these dumb german engineers on how they put this car together!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Having to take off gearbox to remove the oil filter housing gasket....
any help would be gladly appreciated....

You do not have to remove the steering column, ignition to remove the gear box. You do not have to remove the steering box to replace or remove the oil filter housing.

You do not have to remove the gearbox to change the oil cooler lines. You do not have to remove the oil cooler housing to replace the lines. The oil cooler lines are a real pain in the neck but if you're changing that collapsed engine mount you'll find it a bit easier.

The DYI section on this forum has good instructions on the details of lifting the engine and doing what you need to do to get your SD going. Make sure you follow the instructions.

milktoast · #40 06-13-2019, 07:54 PM

i just sent you a message...

Do you still offer to rebuild a steering box?

I have a 1976 300d that I'd like to rebuild.

Thanks
Jason

Proctor750 · #41 04-17-2023, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martureo

A rebuild (what I do and what C&M hydraulics do) is clean, replace all the seals and return the box to the best adjustment possible. If your box is worn it'll stay worn, there's simply no replacing hard parts (they aren't available and would be $450+ minimum). But, a rebuild might make the box operate a bit smoother and feel like a newer box.

I was on the phone with the C&M folks and I was under the impression they have access to and do replace the internals of the boxes. It would make sense seeing as the cores they get are surely worn and adjust screws wound out. They would have to replace the hard parts.

Edit - disregard, I checked and confirmed no new internal "hard" parts but rather using the best of what comes in from cores.

martureo · #42 04-18-2023, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Proctor750

I was on the phone with the C&M folks and I was under the impression they have access to and do replace the internals of the boxes. It would make sense seeing as the cores they get are surely worn and adjust screws wound out. They would have to replace the hard parts.

Edit - disregard, I checked and confirmed no new internal "hard" parts but rather using the best of what comes in from cores.

Yeah, C&M has been around long enough to have purchased the available "hard" parts years ago, but they also have a large number of good cores to get parts from.

Even if things like the working piston or pitman arm were available from MB they'd be about twice the cost of a reconditioned box from C&M.

Proctor750 · #43 04-18-2023, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martureo

Yeah, C&M has been around long enough to have purchased the available "hard" parts years ago, but they also have a large number of good cores to get parts from.

Even if things like the working piston or pitman arm were available from MB they'd be about twice the cost of a reconditioned box from C&M.

Awhile back in "Stretch's" thread he mentioned you could still buy them in europe although at a premium. Still, could be worth it as the cores degrade over time.
https://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/303379-what-feeling-will-properly-adjusted-w123-w116-w126-power-steering-box.html

Do you use Dex3 or febi PS fluid?

martureo · #44 04-18-2023, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Proctor750

Awhile back in "Stretch's" thread he mentioned you could still buy them in europe although at a premium. Still, could be worth it as the cores degrade over time.
https://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/303379-what-feeling-will-properly-adjusted-w123-w116-w126-power-steering-box.html

Do you use Dex3 or febi PS fluid?

I use PS fluid as I've had customers who wanted clear fluid and those who wanted transmission (red) fluid. Its easier for me to use the clear PS fluid and have the customer fluid change colors than to use trans fluid and have them complain that their PS changed colors.

I've even had customers say they wanted to use hydraulic fluid (like that used in the SLS).

Sreyes1103 · #45 05-13-2023, 08:53 AM

Can someone advise :-)

I put in a new steering box today and adjusted the firm nut so it should easier to turn the wheel. I put the adjuster clockwise in increments to see if it would make the steering looser, but no matter how far I put the 6mm nut in, it’s still super firm.

The whole front end is new as well. I don’t have a reference on how loose the steering should be. Any help would be greatly appreciated