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  #1  
Old 01-16-2014, 08:46 PM
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blown head gasket........again!

Found out today I've got a blown head gasket
Just did this about 18 months ago. At that time
had the head checked for flatness & cracks and they did a valve job at the time, too.
A good shop recommended by GSXR and others in town.

Been losing some coolant. No overnight pressure in overflow tank--thought it was
just a leak somewhere. Did a coolant pressure test and it held pressure.

Did a leakdown test- no bubbles or sound in coolant
but air leaking between cylinders Also, air is leaking out the turbo from all cylinders.
Air is leaking from #4 to #3 a lot. But the air doesn't leak from #3 to #4--

Bad head?

Frustrated Jeff

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  #2  
Old 01-16-2014, 10:10 PM
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Is the Air leaking to the Exterior of the Head or leaking into the Cylinder?

I don't know all the details of the previous job so I might be suggestion something that you actually did or checked.

Was the surface of the Block checked to see if it was warped. And, was the Block surface in good shape and clean.

Were the Head Bolts reused?

Could the Coolant leaks be previous to the new Head Gasket issue?
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  #3  
Old 01-16-2014, 11:57 PM
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Air is definitely leaking into the cylinders on either side.

Checked for flatness & cracks when the valve job was done.

New head bolts, but as I was putting them in halfway through I
realized I forgot the washers!! So I pulled them out and put them back in
correctly. Maybe that's the cause of my problem?

Also, after the HG was put in, the car sat for a while before it was started
while I worked on other stuff.
Someone told me he likes to get the gasket in and start it the same day
and that makes a better seal?

Jeff
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  #4  
Old 01-17-2014, 12:08 AM
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before & after

Here are the photos of the head before and after the last HG leak.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/alternative-fuels/312161-inside-roosters-wvo-head.html#post2875270

Jeff
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  #5  
Old 01-17-2014, 04:18 AM
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Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster300SD View Post
Air is definitely leaking into the cylinders on either side.

Checked for flatness & cracks when the valve job was done.

New head bolts, but as I was putting them in halfway through I
realized I forgot the washers!! So I pulled them out and put them back in
correctly. Maybe that's the cause of my problem?

Also, after the HG was put in, the car sat for a while before it was started
while I worked on other stuff.
Someone told me he likes to get the gasket in and start it the same day
and that makes a better seal?

Jeff
Did you wait at least ten minutes between torque step 2 and 3, and again between step 3 and 4 ?
This is critical to allow the "torque to yield" bolts elongation/set time.

FYI:
On the cylinder head I torque, paint mark, torque, paint mark, torque, paint mark, etc, every fastener, using a different color for each step.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3008892-post11.html
This eliminates concern from possible "under" or "over" torqued fasteners.

I hope I am wrong (deceived by a poor quality picture).
Looking at your picture, it appears the cylinder head face was sand blasted ?
Most sandblasting aggregate is too aggressive for the cylinder head, and will remove metal in uneven patterns from the sealing surface/mating surface = ruin the smooth even surface = cause leaks.

Here is a head and block face cleaned the IMO correct way.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/325433-1985-300td-head-gasket-repair.html


.
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  #6  
Old 01-17-2014, 11:39 AM
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Hunter,
Yes, I did last two 90* turns with the wait time.
I used a tip from another member and put a dot of fingernail polish on each
bolt at 12:00 before the last two torques. Helps to keep you at 90* and
helps keep you in correct tightening sequence.

Five months ago went on a long 800 mile road trip to Mt. Shasta & back
with no problems.

Jeff
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  #7  
Old 01-17-2014, 02:56 PM
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Hmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster300SD View Post
Hunter,
Yes, I did last two 90* turns with the wait time.
I used a tip from another member and put a dot of fingernail polish on each
bolt at 12:00 before the last two torques. Helps to keep you at 90* and
helps keep you in correct tightening sequence.

Five months ago went on a long 800 mile road trip to Mt. Shasta & back
with no problems.

Jeff
I note that you did not answer about sandblasting the sealing surface/mating surface..

Unfortunately if the cylinder head face was sand blasted, premature gasket failure is a common result.

Most sandblasting aggregate is too aggressive for the cylinder head, and will remove metal in uneven patterns from the sealing surface/mating surface = ruin the smooth even surface = cause leaks.

Permissible roughness of parting surface
Lengthwise 0.08 mm
Crosswise 0.0 mm

************************

Here is more technical data on the topic.
cylinder head surface finish premature gasket failure:

http://www.aagaskets.com.au/PDF/AA004%20Distortion%20and%20Surface%20Finish.pdf

cylinder head surface finish is critical to gasket seal

http://www.engineaustralia.com.au/~engine/sites/default/files/SB024.pdf

Cylinder Head Resurfacing -Surface Finish & Gasket Sealing Theory : MA,CT,RI,VT,NH,ME,NY,NJ

http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/en-US/Technical/Documents/How%20To%20Prevent%20Head%20Gasket%20Failure%20-%20Improper%20Surface%20Finsh.pdf

http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/en-US/Technical/Documents/Surface%20Flatness%20and%20Finish.pdf

http://www.reinz.com/pictures/39-00331-00_PI_5_MLS-ND-e-low.pdf

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Resurfacing Cylinder Heads & Blocks - Engine Builder Magazine

https://www.google.com/search?q=cylinder+head+surface+finish+gasket+failure&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a

.
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1983 300D
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  #8  
Old 01-17-2014, 06:52 PM
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I will check and see if I can find out if they sandblasted it or not.
If they did, can that be fixed?
I know they didn't skim it.

Thanks,
Jeff
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  #9  
Old 01-17-2014, 07:11 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster300SD View Post
I will check and see if I can find out if they sandblasted it or not.
If they did, can that be fixed?
I know they didn't skim it.

Thanks,
Jeff
Resurfacing is the only possible answer.


.
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HV-A/C Climate Control.
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1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
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2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/
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  #10  
Old 01-17-2014, 09:56 PM
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Get it resurfaced?

Do you mean that they resurfaced it and that is the reason it failed--
or do you mean that having it resurfaced is the only way to solve my problem?

Thanks,
Jeff
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  #11  
Old 01-17-2014, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster300SD View Post
Do you mean that they resurfaced it and that is the reason it failed--
or do you mean that having it resurfaced is the only way to solve my problem?

Thanks,
Jeff
The PO said they did not resurface the Head becasue it was within spec.

Apparently Hunter PMed and ask if the sand Blasted the Head; I guess meaning the part of the Head the Head Gasket Seats on.

I am curious to see what the answer is as I have not worked any place where the sandbasted the Deck of the Head. That was done when needed with wet/Dry Sand Paper and a flat Block.

Also some shops have Basters that use coarse media (OK for Exhaust Manifolds or the exterior parts) and other have Blasters that use Glass Bead Media.
Every Place I worked they used glass Bead Media.

It has not been mentioned but once in a while the top surface of the Block is warped. Most People don't have a precision staight Edge at home to check the surface of the Block and you cannot always get away with not checking it.

It has not been mentioned if that was checked or not and the condition of the surface has not been mentioned.

I know on Gasser Engines you need to be carful to clean the crud out of the Bottom of the Head Bolt Holes and chase the Threads and use the proper lube so you don't get a false torque on them.
I have been I have only had a few Engines that needed the Head Bolts or Nuts tightend to some angle after torqueing them.
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  #12  
Old 01-17-2014, 10:37 PM
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FYI

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
The PO said they did not resurface the Head becasue it was within spec.

Apparently Hunter PMed and ask if the sand Blasted the Head; I guess meaning the part of the Head the Head Gasket Seats on.

I am curious to see what the answer is as I have not worked any place where the sandbasted the Deck of the Head. That was done when needed with wet/Dry Sand Paper and a flat Block.

Also some shops have Basters that use coarse media (OK for Exhaust Manifolds or the exterior parts) and other have Blasters that use Glass Bead Media.
Every Place I worked they used glass Bead Media.

It has not been mentioned but once in a while the top surface of the Block is warped. Most People don't have a precision staight Edge at home to check the surface of the Block and you cannot always get away with not checking it.

It has not been mentioned if that was checked or not and the condition of the surface has not been mentioned.

I know on Gasser Engines you need to be carful to clean the crud out of the Bottom of the Head Bolt Holes and chase the Threads and use the proper lube so you don't get a false torque on them.
I have been I have only had a few Engines that needed the Head Bolts or Nuts tightend to some angle after torqueing them.
The patten on this picture is where my concern came from

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2875270-post2.html

there was no PM involved, I still hope I am wrong (deceived by a poor quality picture).


.
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  #13  
Old 01-17-2014, 10:41 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster300SD View Post
Do you mean that they resurfaced it and that is the reason it failed--
or do you mean that having it resurfaced is the only way to solve my problem?

Thanks,
Jeff
If it was sand blasted = the only way to fix the issue is to (if possible) resurface the cylinder head.

IMO: At this point, the cylinder head MUST come off for any further diagnosis or repair..

.
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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
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Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/
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  #14  
Old 01-17-2014, 11:50 PM
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Just before head removal. Try getting a feel for how tight the head bolts are. If some are pretty loose they may have been too soft for example even though new.

Or good stretch bolts over torqued by a poorly calibrated torque wrench. This before the final partial final turns took them too far. Both senarios are unlikely but only takes a moment to check.

I think you also mentioned you took them to torque and then removed them to install the washers. Taking them to torque could have started the stretch process a little. When you retorqued them the second time after washer installation they may have stretched a little more. Then you applied the final stretches. This may have been a little too much.

I have limited experience but the stretch component must be carefully engineered in material wise. Once you reach a certain point they could continue stretching under working load later if their point of no return was neared. This is when a stretch bolt actually will stretch or elongate easier than before. Or under less pressure. If you define half way installed head bolts before removal to add washers may help. For example. Not up to initial total torque, up to initial total torque, total torque and first freehand partial stretch turn.
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  #15  
Old 02-04-2014, 03:19 PM
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Update

I pulled the head and took it to the shop.
No cracks but it is 4 thousands out of spec for flatness.
They are going to fix that and redo one of the valves.

Once I pulled the manifold, I could see there was oil & coolant leaking from
the HG. I'm going to clean out all the bolt holes with a tap before installing
the new bolts. I'm using a calibrated torque wrench borrowed from my neighbor who's a retired mechanic.

I'm going to surgically clean those mating surfaces.
Hopefully, this will be the last time for this head!!

Thanks for all the advice.

Jeff

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