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  #1  
Old 01-27-2014, 10:02 PM
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connecting block

I have heard mention of a small block with black lid held on by tabs on the passenger side fender well. It's where the starter solenoid wires etc. terminate. It can be used for a momentary switch hook-up for service like valve adjustments. I was checking and I don't have it, that I can find anyway. Wondering if it was not on all the last W123 240D's or not?

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Last edited by whunter; 01-28-2014 at 08:34 PM. Reason: added and activated signature
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:43 PM
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From what I recall, my 83 240D (which was the last 240D sold in the US) did not have that 3-point terminal block like its big brother the 300D.

I am pretty sure the flow was key -> NSS -> starter solenoid.

The 240D is pretty much wide open in the engine bay and you should be able to hook a remote starter switch to the solenoid trigger terminal and main battery terminal no problem.
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2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

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1987 300TD sold to vstech
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:05 PM
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Kind uh how did you know that '83 gone but not forgotten 240D you owned. That it was the last one sold in the good 'ol U.S. of A. Oh! Thanks for the assist there. I placed the momentary-switch down on the starter solenoid, and the + on the battery. It's not a issue like you implied. It's sooooooo nice to have the room there in the 240D. The 2.6 190e was brutal for me.
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:10 PM
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Rebe sent me the following by PM. In the interest of helping others that may have this problem in the future, and so that others can share their knowledge, I am copying and pasting his question and my response into the thread he started about the starting system on his 83 240D with MT.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebe
I did work on climate controls and lights inside of 83 240D. When everything was back together all the lights work, turn signals etc, horn. I changed two bulbs in the tail lights with the 5601 I believe. They lighted up ok. When I went to start the car the glow plugs light, but no crank. I have hooked up a momentary switch to the starter & the car starts up. So, no elect. going to the solenoid. The back up lights work, and I presumed that was the switch by the shifter. This is a manual transmission. I guess, it has a safety switch like a NSS on the manual. However, the drawings are so vague on the manual ... and if so not for sure where it is. In all the work I did I fail to think I disconnected anything to take away the starting power. I, also, went back and replaced the bulbs in the stop lights with the origninals still no go! Any thoughts would be appreciated. I have a hard feeling that I caused any issues with the wiring on the ignition switch. It looks like there might be a connector between the NNS someplace going to the other points.
In a 123, the main power flow is Battery+ -> Starter (big nut) -> light switch terminal 30 -> key switch terminal 30.

When the key is in position III (crank) then terminal 50 is live. This has a white/purple wire leading down from the switch to connector C146. It is a 4 position connector on the side of the console where the driver's right knee would be. The 4 wires on it are:
pin 1 - black/yellow/red: +12 V from fuse 14 (live only when key switch in pos II or III). This feeds the backup light section of the NSS on an A/T car.
Pin 2 - gray/yellow: to C104, pin 6, this is the big connector near the steering wheel that connects everything in the rear of the car to the dashboard harness. This line is the other side of the backup light section of the NSS on an A/T car.
Pin 3 - White/purple wire from key switch pin 50, this is the start command down to the safety side of the NSS on an A/T car.
Pin 4- 2 purple wires, one goes to the starter solenoid and the other to the glow plug relay. This is the other side of the safety switch on an A/T car.

On a M/T car, there is no NSS. C146 has a 4 pin plug going to the shifter. Pins 3 and 4 have a simple jumper to complete the start command signal. Pins 1 and 2 go to a position switch on the shifter that is closed only when in reverse.

Long story short: I suspect when you were working in the dash area that you inadvertently unplugged C146 and interrupted the path to your starter.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #5  
Old 01-28-2014, 08:31 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebe View Post
I have heard mention of a small block with black lid held on by tabs on the passenger side fender well. It's where the starter solenoid wires etc. terminate. It can be used for a momentary switch hook-up for service like valve adjustments. I was checking and I don't have it, that I can find anyway. Wondering if it was not on all the last W123 240D's or not?
As per your PM.

There is no NSS on the manual transmission 240D.

If it is not a disconnected wire..

98% odds your MB# 1264620730 Steering Lock - With Ignition Switch & Vacuum Valve has failed..

Ignition Cylinder Tumbler replacement; mixed diesel/gas
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/142232-ignition-cylinder-tumbler-replacement%3B-mixed-diesel-gas.html#post1065596


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  #6  
Old 01-29-2014, 03:47 PM
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Well, I did find a wire in the bottom of the console below the radio with a female end not connected. It has two wires to it. One is red and the other is white like with a possible purple stripe on it. It traces back to the left side top of console. I have checked all around in the bottom for a vacant wire to plug into, but I have come up with none. There is a two wire connector that plugs into the backup light switch. I was hoping for a jumper wire as you mentioned Jay Bob that was apart.

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