I have a couple of vehicles I would like to install electronic lock kits into but I am not sure how to find one that is not a blatent security issue.

I see a lot of power lock kits available, however, the one thing that concerns me about these kits are the receivers - they look like they're mass-produced in china likely with no transmission code at all to differentiate one remote from another. Anyone who buys these kits would probably be able to get into the cars of everyone else who has these kits installed. In fact, I'm afraid that ambient signals within the same frequency will set the locks on the fritz.

Can anyone recommend a brand or specific product that I could hook up to the actuators? I don't want to spend too much no more than $40 for a receiver - I just want one that is maybe one or two steps better than the ones on eBay.

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1982 240D 4-speed
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 4.10 e-locker

I think even the cheap ones use internal codes. But if security is that big of an issue just use two units in serial. Unit 1 turns on power to the second one.

Edit: or better yet get one of the combo remote start/remote entry units - hook the remote start circuit to a relay in the door actuator circuit. Click the remote start, then click the door open button to actuate the actual unlock motor.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Are you trying to automate the 83 240D?

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

No, the vacuum central lock system in it just looks like a mess.

Maybe this is just me being nonsensical, but when I opened the hood of this car for the first time, I noticed a bunch of disconnected vacuum hoses, most of which were for the central locking - which I read on here can be a headache to diagnose. I decided that I want to relieve the vaccum system of central locking duties and just have it focus on the brake booster/engine shutoff (hvac too?).

There seems to be a lot of actuators/kits available for this sort of thing and my electronics skills and equipment far outweigh that of vacuum systems.

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1982 240D 4-speed
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 4.10 e-locker

240D only has a few vac lines

At the booster split there are several colored hoses:
yellow = reservoir (under back window) and another check valve to the gray hose for the master lock switch in drivers door
brown = shutoff (to key)
green = climate (one pod for recirculation, when ac temperature wheel on Max, there is a vacuum solenoid behind the dash)
white = transmission VCV and EGR control (the 5 way valve on top of the valve cover)

There are several threads on here with the vacuum system for a 240D.

I had some pics of my 240D that would have shown all this but they are gone.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Once I get a vacuum tester and see if the actuators still work, I might just sort out the existing system. If I have to replace any however, I'll keep looking into retrofitting it to electrical

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1982 240D 4-speed
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 4.10 e-locker

The system isn't bad once you get your head around it. And the parts don't cost that much, in the scheme of things...and many can be repaired.

I wrote this guide on diagnosing the vacuum door locks, using my '79 300D. Some of the plastic vacuum line colors may be a bit different but the concept is the same.

Mercedes W123 Vacuum Lock System Diagnosis Technique - iFixit

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

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Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!

I doubt there are many car thieves going around to early 80's MBs trying to hack the door lock signal.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

While I think your best bet is to fix the vacuum system, just for the record, my $17 el cheapo eBay system has a pretty sophisticated code system. The code is held in the transmitter and part of the installation process is to pair the transmitter and receiver. I've had mine installed for over a year with great results.

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

a mity vac is key.
its not that hard to fix
there are some good tutorials on the internets
that actuators are like 40 bones a piece
start the test at the two yellow ones in the engine compartment..see if they holding vac

Hey guys, got a vacuum tester, it looks like I have a couple of bad actuators. At this point I think I'd get the best value by getting an electronic kit. I miss having a car with remote locks anyways.

I ordered one off the 'bay with some nice looking hardware.

__________________
1982 240D 4-speed
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 4.10 e-locker

With us!

(And Results!)

Thanks!

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

I ordered one off ebay about 3 years ago myself. If it is delivered to you, let me know. Because I have not seen it yet.

Well it arrived and I installed a couple of them so far. Not bad!

Had it all wired up on the bench and it all seems to work. Not the quietest things. Came with decently adequate hardware.

Bit disappointed with the wire gauge of the wiring harness but shouldn't be a problem for momentary operation.



Front passenger door - easiest one, no bending required.



Rear passenger door - (the screw rubs slightly on the inside door panel, if this becomes an issue, I'll tack weld the rods together.)



The driver door will be the most difficult since there aren't any provisions for actuators, so I'll have to come up with a creative solution. Will update with the other two doors once it warms up in the garage.

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1982 240D 4-speed
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 4.10 e-locker

For the driver door, I had to build some linkages out of some old brake line

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1982 240D 4-speed
2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 4.10 e-locker