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  #1  
Old 01-30-2014, 07:57 PM
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drivers side running tail light not working

I have a 1984 300d and the drivers side running light it not working.
I've changed the bulb but I'm not getting power to that light.
I've attached 2 photos showing what part of the connection I'm testing.
It works perfectly on the passenger side but not the drivers side.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Pete

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drivers side running tail light not working-20140130_150518_resized.jpg   drivers side running tail light not working-20140130_150554_resized.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 01-30-2014, 09:30 PM
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Fuse

If I remember correctly, I think it was my driverside tail light out when a fuse was blown. Is the light on your gear shift out too?
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  #3  
Old 01-30-2014, 09:33 PM
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Sorry, wrong side

I guess it was my passenger side that was out with a blown fuse.

Check out this Fuse diagram.
http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn447/Jeremy5848/1985%20Mercedes%20300D/W123Fuse.jpg
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  #4  
Old 01-30-2014, 09:52 PM
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I'm pretty sure the fuses are all good but I will double check tomorrow.
Thanks for the reply.

pete
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2014, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petecooke View Post
I'm pretty sure the fuses are all good but I will double check tomorrow.
When two windows wouldn't work (driver & right passenger), I checked that fuse and it looked fine. I sanded the fuse ends and holder, coated with silicone grease, then the windows worked. Same deal a week later with the sun-roof. I knew the problem was "too much supply resistance" since I measured at the window switch and saw the 12 V supply drop to <1 V as I tried to operate either window. I think there are quality and cheapie Euro fuses sold and I probably bought the later.

Interesting that M-B ran separate wires for L & R to the rear running lights. That must have been a safety concern so you at least have one light burning.
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  #6  
Old 01-30-2014, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
When two windows wouldn't work (driver & right passenger), I checked that fuse and it looked fine. I sanded the fuse ends and holder, coated with silicone grease, then the windows worked. Same deal a week later with the sun-roof. I knew the problem was "too much supply resistance" since I measured at the window switch and saw the 12 V supply drop to <1 V as I tried to operate either window. I think there are quality and cheapie Euro fuses sold and I probably bought the later.

Interesting that M-B ran separate wires for L & R to the rear running lights. That must have been a safety concern so you at least have one light burning.
Same for the window switches, they fused them diagonally I assume so only one window would be operated at a time on that circuit. They thought well usually you roll down windows in pairs, the two fronts then the two rears. That way the both circuits are active with only one window motor operating at a time on that circuit. They really put a lot of thought into these cars.
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  #7  
Old 01-31-2014, 01:09 AM
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You would have to pop the connector open....but I think that is the ground wire....there are two chassis grounds hid in the trunk....one behind the passenger tail light and one under the antenna motor...
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:25 AM
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I've had intermittent brake light issues in both cars.

Seems if I hit the black socket holder, the light comes on. Must have been a worn plug.
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  #9  
Old 02-01-2014, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
... I sanded the fuse ends and holder, coated with silicone grease, then the windows worked. ...

Interesting that M-B ran separate wires for L & R to the rear running lights. That must have been a safety concern so you at least have one light burning.
Please don't sand or otherwise abrade the fuse clips. This destroys the plating and it will corrode worse in a short time. The silicone grease mitigates this somewhat but it will still cause trouble long term.

Best thing to use on corroded fuse clips is Brasso or Tarn-x applied with a Q-tip.

MB did put a serious amount of thought into safety when laying out what loads on what fuses for reasons like you describe.

However I cannot fathom what they were thinking with having unfused power from the battery, straight to the light switch, then to the fuse box. I cannot get away with that in my world of industrial controls.

The 124/201s are like that too. I wonder if they were having problems because when they got to the 210, they went to a whole new power distribution scheme and had probably 100 fuses in the car in 4 places.

I'm not sure I found all the fuses yet in the ML320.

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2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

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