Oh man that is absolutely beautiful, what a score!! You have found yourself a wonderful classic. I am glad to see it's gonna get back on the road, I will be following this thread.

As far as the pull knob goes, if you want a new one got to a Carquest and give them part # P3057-51764-OES (Starter Pull Switch Knob). That is a WorldPac number but the 2 companies work together as one.

I am with Phil, what a Gem!

Starting to work on the 220D. A few questions,

-What is the best method to drain the old fuel from the tank? The center of tank has a drain plug with a large Allen hex. Also a fuel line near front of tank. What is best?

-I've changed the engine oil and filter, how do I change the injection pump oil?

-I am going to remove the valve cover and lubricate the cam before starting. Are there torque specs for installing the valve cover? I have a new gasket.

I have both fuel filters. I was thinking of replacing the fuel in tank, then starting car. Then I will replace fuel filters. Just want to purge the fuel lines with fresh fuel and let the existing old filters catch the dirt/crud in lines before I install the new filters.

Can I get a battery for this vehicle at any auto parts store or is it difficult to find?

thanks

Gravity drain the tank, or maybe get a cheap fuel siphoning pump from Harbor Freight, and remove as much as possible via the installed fuel lines, and then maybe through the fuel tank level sender opening (top of the fuel tank), and very last open that drain on the bottom of the tank. If you can't source the big hex wrench, you may be able to get a pipe wrench to grab the outer edge. You'll be surprised as the amount left in the tank that will come out, be prepared for a big mess.

Primary concern is not bad fuel in the tank, but water which has accumulated in the bottom. You don't want that water to get sucked up and pass through the injection pump and the injectors, it may damage both.

Once you get it open and drained, apply heat with heat lamps or a hair dryer or some such, and try to drive any water in the tank out. Blowing air inside with a leaf blower will also help.

Can't drain the oil from the injection pump I think, I suspect that you just open the fill and add oil until it runs out? Need to read either the owner's manual or the factory service manual.

Valve cover torque specs - probably very low like 10 ft-lbs - just tight enough so it doesn't leak! Seriously, install new gasket and snug it down evenly, start the engine and if it leaks, tighten up a little more. No need to obsess about it.

Battery should be available at any good auto parts store.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

The best way to change the oil in the injection pump is to siphon out the old oil and fuel that will be in there, and then add new oil until it just starts to run out the overflow hole in the side. Think that hole may normally be plugged, it is on the engine side of the pump. This is a routine maintenance item, due to the fuel that gets into the oil reservoir during normal operation.

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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

Did you start it yet?

Looks like beautiful car.

I removed the valve cover and lubed the cam, chain, etc.. Cleaned cover, installed new gasket and re-installed.

Siphoned the old oil/fuel from the injector pump and added new oil as you guys noted.

Siphoned the old fuel from the tank through the filler. I did not remove the drain plug or the sending unit.

Just need, new battery and new fuel then I will attempt to start.
Picture attached. Valve cover looks nice and clean!

Attached Thumbnails

 

Man, that's really beautiful.

I want a 220D someday...

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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

After putting in the new fuel, it would probably be a good idea to loosen each of the hard lines at the injectors one at a time and using the primer pump clear the whole fuel system. It is very possible that there could be some atmospheric condensate or even entrained water from the old fuel. It would not be the best for any of that to get thru the injectors or the injection pump when it is running.

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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

Can the primer pump push fluid through the IP hard lines? I have never tried it, but that doesn't match my understanding of the system. I was under the impression you needed to crank the engine to flush the hard lines.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

I would totally put a carpet dash mat over that.

Believe it or not the dealer batteries are some of the best available and comparable in price to a Bosch.

Sorry to be slow getting back to you on this one. By opening or cracking the hard fuel lines at the injectors, you will be able to push the fuel up to that point. In order to push fuel thru the injectors, the injection pump needs to be operating either by having the engine or starter motor running. I suspect that not all of the injection pump will be flushed this way, but fuel will come out of the hard lines.

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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

You made a terrific find with that one owner car. Looks like a keeper to me. What are the miles on it?

Actually, I believe I'm the third owner. From the records that came with the car, the original owners lived in Sarasota, Florida. Then the car was brought to CA in the late 1980s. Has 129,000 miles.

I'd pay admission just to see a car that well preserved, without any special procedures ever done to it besides being garaged.

Nice garage space for the 220D you have there in the one pic!

FWIW, being garaged seems to do a lot of good for an aging MB. My last MB I bought new 15-years ago was garaged since day 1, and only spent nights out-of-doors while travelling a little bit over the years.

One of my Brothers now owns the car ('99 E300 131K miles) and it is only driven a couple times a week, and never in wet weather - and always spends it's nights garaged. He may own it for many, many years as he loves old MB diesels too!

Our Parents started buying MB diesels new in '69 with a 220D - that's our starting point lineage being raised with 'em.