Oil pan gasket, split upon installation. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

crazy4diesel · #1 01-31-2014, 07:58 PM

Hello all...

Hoping you can help me figure out why this would have happened? Is it because I used gasket sealer, or is it because the pan is bent?

I slowly tightened the cap screws all around crisscross method, then torqued to 10 Nm (7.4 lbFt), same crisscross method. When three of the screw points split the gasket and forced it out, seems a foregone conclusion this will leak as it is.

ROLLGUY · #2 01-31-2014, 08:23 PM

I have never seen that happen. I only use sealer on the pan side (if I use sealer at all), and NEVER silicone. Silicone is very slippery, so that might explain the gasket spitting itself out.

crazy4diesel · #3 01-31-2014, 08:26 PM

It was just gasket sealer, the kind you brush on, like varnish. Very light coating, and allowed it to get sticky first.

BWhitmore · #4 01-31-2014, 08:28 PM

Could the gasket be old stock? I had this happen recently on a valve cover gasket.

ROLLGUY · #5 01-31-2014, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

It was just gasket sealer, the kind you brush on, like varnish. Very light coating, and allowed it to get sticky first.

Sorry, it kinda looked like red silicone. BWhitmore might be onto something though.

sixto · #6 01-31-2014, 09:58 PM

Time to calibrate your torque wrench?

Sixto
87 300D

crazy4diesel · #7 01-31-2014, 11:26 PM

I suppose there's a 1 in a 1000 chance it's the torque wrench, but since the other 16 nuts seem to be fine, not sure that's be the culprit, but anything is possible.

xaliscomex · #8 01-31-2014, 11:46 PM

Installed gasket on my oil pan without sealer. No oil leaks. Not one drop. I did some research on wether or not to use sealer and got mixed results from different forums. Even the classic center was unsure. I opted not to use the sealer. 1979 300sd w116.

steeleygreg · #9 02-01-2014, 07:17 AM

I'd agree with checking the torque wrench. This appears to be a classic bulge of the gasket from over-tightening.

gatorblue92 · #10 02-01-2014, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steeleygreg

I'd agree with checking the torque wrench. This appears to be a classic bulge of the gasket from over-tightening.

X2

I think they are over torqued. I would also check the pan itself now since it may be bent.

Stretch · #11 02-01-2014, 07:39 AM

I think you should check the oil pan - that's a good start

When using the torque wrench did it feel more than 10Nm?

But actually it looks to me like you didn't get the holes lined up when you installed it - it looks like you might have had the bolt under the gasket and then you pushed and snap...

I've been using Hylomar gasket dresser on my M102 recently and it does go pretty sticky like fly paper - if you're not careful it will stick to the bit you don't want it to which when you pull it to where you want it to go it can cause it to rip. Put on too much of this gasket dresser and it will make the gasket wet and then you've got a weaker bit of paper to play with...

97 SL320 · #12 02-01-2014, 10:04 AM

On the steel pan side, did you use a hammer / flat punch to flatten holes? Steel pans tend to dimple on the gasket side around the bolt holes. If they are used with a new gasket this will happen.

If using sealer, put is on the gasket, slide around the metal, remove then let dry a few min. If you only put it on the metal the gasket does not have time to absorb sealer and it will slide. Installing dry is usually better.

Proper torque is in the screwdriver range, don't tighten directly to the spec, run the bolts in and creep up on the torque like bolting on a cylinder head.

crazy4diesel · #13 02-01-2014, 11:21 AM

Thanks all, I'm suspecting this was a combination of a PO over tightening and bending or dimpling the pan to stop an oil leak, and the sealer maybe not being fully set yet (I'd applied it only to the gasket, but I'm starting to think it's not necessary and in fact a bad idea on such a thick gasket).

When I torque anything I go slow back and forth all the around something, just like the standard for head bolts, heck I even tighten the valve cover the same way, a bit anal I know, but it's what I do. The wrench is relatively new, and always clicks when I expect it to...and it did in this case too.

Do you all think a new pan for 23 bucks would be worth it? I didn't get one in the first place, because I've always been of the camp that nothing is as good as OE, and I couldn't see anything wrong with this pan, but now it's on there I can see a slight wave between the bolts.

Stretch · #14 02-01-2014, 11:40 AM

Place the pan on a flat surface to check it.

Modern glass is probably going to be flat enough for this check. I'm all for saving money(!) Check before buy...

gatorblue92 · #15 02-01-2014, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

Do you all think a new pan for 23 bucks would be worth it? I didn't get one in the first place, because I've always been of the camp that nothing is as good as OE, and I couldn't see anything wrong with this pan, but now it's on there I can see a slight wave between the bolts.

I got one for my old 300D and it cured 90% of its oil leaks. Well worth the money.