Im always worried about lifting from or using jackstands on the boxed structure under my w123 cars. If for nothing else, than that I want to protect the rubberized undercoating that is bonded, and jackstands can do real damage, metal flexing or other things aside...

My cars are totally rust free and in perfect shape. The rocker points are fine... Question is, what is the risk of using them, especially for the long-run if supporting the car in an elevated manner for repairs?

When MB was actively selling and servicing these cars at the dealerships, where did they place their lift points and did they use any special adapters?

I like the concept of this tool from ECS tuning - meant for BMWs.

Home Page ES#259909 Rocker Jack Pad Adapter - 001852SCH01A



Thing is, it strikes me that rocker points are really only meant to lift 1/4 of the vehicle, or less mass (considering that three wheels would be on the ground), and who knows how string the welds and connection points are for these.

Long story short, is it safe and reasonable to lift up an axle or all four corners and support from a tool like Ive shown?

Thanks!

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

I would recommend using a floor jack and jacking from the steel sub frame on each side - front and rear, the support the car using jack stands on all four corners near the point where the jack pad contacted the sub frame. I would use the jack points only in case of emergency where a floor jack is not available.

On the 126, and most likely same on the 123 the rocker lift points are tied into the same structure as the factory lift pads that we all normally use for lifting/jacking.

Here is a shot down the rocker of my one 300SD, you can see the lift point assembly down the far end of the rocker.


On that same 300SD the rear lift point sheet metal had all but disappeared so we had to rebuilt. We used a 1/4" steel plate to re-create the factory lift point and then sheet metal to surround the area. Its not very pretty at all but its very strong.

As you can see the rocker lift point is just above the factory lift point.

I dont really see why you could not use something like that concept device. You would have to make sure that the rod used it overly strong and the welds are very good too.

__________________
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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

I've jacked up my signature car many times using 3/4" bolts in the jack points. I wouldn't recommend that with a rusty car.

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'83 300D, 126K miles.

I don't think the W123 has those pads... only the W126 does.

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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

The W124 does too.

I use the crossmember for jacking and the frame rails for jack stands in the front and the diff and control arms for jack and stands in the rear. This is only on my W123.

I agree. I know my father's w210 has round rubber points which are VERY convenient... Alas none on my w123s.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

My issue with this, right or wrong, is that the subframe, like other suspension parts, is held together including rubber mounts and bushings. Jacking on the subframe or mounting on the subframe bolts I imagine may create extra stresses on those rubber mounts, and Id hate to damage them since the job is a real pain...

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

And in the rear, if you're going to drop the sub-frame to do a bunch of work on it, where do you put the jack stands?

__________________
1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

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Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!

Well, the FSM indicates that the proper way to raise the car is with jack-up shoes, similar to the one shown in the first post. Part no. 123589116300, available through PP for a mere $627.25 ea. That's a lot of Harbor Freight jack stands.

I've never had a problem raising my cars by jacking under the transmission support crossbar and placing jack stands directly under the jack points, with a small chunk of 2 x 4 softwood covered by a piece of an old tire sidewall for a cushion. Rear jack up similar, with the jack under the differential. Additional precautions should be taken on the infrequent occasions that raising all 4 wheels at once is required.

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'79 240D

^ I also use that jacking procedure.

No pads on a 123.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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83 SD

84 CD

I always use wood but not 2x4 soft wood. I've had that split between the wight of the car an the jack stand. No good!!

I been using and reusing the same pieices of wood for years.

About a 5"x5" square of 3/4 inch PLY wood. Not OSB. works great.
Flexes with the contours but does not break.

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Current fleet
2006 E320 CDI
1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped

former members
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro"

The MB price has gone up a bit here on Pelican Parts.

MB part# 123-589-11-63-00 refers to it as a Supporting Plate.

Pelican lists it for $661.75
Benzpartswholesale.com $457.20
MB Parts Center $382.00 MSRP price



Benzpartswholesale is the MB Dealer in Monterey, Ca.

Knowing MB pricing, how mucha ya wanna bet that is only for one? Ya need 2 of em.


I made my own set for much much less.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

On my 97 SL320 and 97 C280 I lift the front using the cross member under the engine, then support the car with cloth covered jack stands on the frame rails under driver and passenger feet.

The rear is lifted by placing the jack directly under the differential and car supported on the round lifting pads. I've taken old school made from 1 1/4" pipe adjustable jack stands and made a new center post with a large dished washer welded to the top. This prevents the stand from slipping off the pad.