Any other way to peen the master link on a timing chain???
 

I need to connect the master link on my 240D, and don't want to wait for the rental tool, etc.
Any way to peen over the pins using a hammer and anvil of some kind?

No problem. I use a large hammer as a backup on the back side, then use the ball end of a medium size ball peen hammer to peen the ends of the pins.

Additionally, you should feel of the side plate by rubbing your finger over it. One side you will feel the burrs, the other side will feel smooth. Peen the pins against the smooth side. There will be more area and the slightly radiused edge of the hole will accept the peened pin better.

Good luck,

Tandy and The Leather Factory carry a small ( four pound ) anvil used for lots of cool things like setting belt snaps,,, etc... which might be just right instead of a big hammer... usually , the bigger the backup the better... so more force is applied to the object being struck ....there is a rather funny site called Keenjunk.com which has a forum called the Junkyard.... which is good evidence that hitting on big anvils makes one really really want to type your thoughts on a computer screen... LOL... Greg

http://keenjunk.com/junkyard.htm

Ed,

I used the the method described by LarryBible, worked for me on my 240. I Used a pin punch type tool in my made in china assortment of chisels that gave me room to use the hammer and be more accurate at guiding the force...

The pins on the link just dont slide in, they are pretty tight, to push them in and to get the outer plate on I used a little vise.

Oh, also its nice to have a second person hold the face of a big hammer behind the link to prevent damage to the cam sproket.

Timing Chain Split link
 

Iv just changed a timing chain on a 300D, OM-617, dead easy, it has a split link, with a small elongated horse-shoe shaped spring clip which fits into two grooves machined in the pins of the master link. However Ive got a problem to sort out tomorrow morning-- While setting Injection pump timing, Ive dropped the delivery valve spring ( I had placed it and the valve on the air filter cover, but had to steady myself and placed my hand on top-- It stuck to my hand and you guessed it, fell off!)--Thought it had fallen to the ground, or been lost-- No Probs I thought-- Ive got an old pump take it off that! However, Guess where the missing spring is? Its currently sitting between the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket!! Bastard! Cant turn engine more than half a turn before it comes up against chain! Was dark, so I have lovely job for the morning, trying to get at the *^\** thing!!

The old addage runs true-- when working on cars, whatever you drop--will never hit the floor!

Re: Timing Chain Split link
 

Amen to that!

A guy I know on another BBS (one for my Fords) took the intake manifold off of his 6.9l (V-8 diesel; he was pulling the heads to do the gaskets) and lo and behold! The valley pan underneath the intake (made to keep water, diesel, etc from falling into the crankcase) had 2 sockets, a wrench, and a couple hose clamps that he had dropped over the years. *lol*

I once dropped a screwdriver bit (one of those magnetic jobs) while working on tightening the right-side valve cover on my F-250, and searched and searched and couldn't find it. I finally found it, after about 10 minutes, sitting on the leaf spring right up against the curl where it mounts to the frame.

Fun stuff, eh? ;)

Alastair,

The master link with the clip is not recommended for this application. It is sometimes found with a timing chain for use when rolling in the new chain.

If I were you, I would remove the valve cover, roll that link to the top, remove it and peen in a solid link.

If you insist on leaving the clipped link, you should ensure that the clip is running in the right direction. With the clipped link at the very top of the crankshaft sprocket, the notch in the clip should be toward the passenger side.

In a diesel, there is absolutely nowhere for the valves to go in the event of a timing chain failure or separation except into the pistons. This means almost total engine catastrophy if it occurs. I would strongly recommend that you peen or press a permanent link in place of this clipped link.

Best of luck,

Thank you all for very good information!

I will try the method Master Bible has put forth. I think a large sledge hammer head will do nicely as an anvil, and I will fashion an old punch as a peen-er thingy...perhaps cut a V into the face so that it will mimic the peen marks on the other links.
To do it correctly, I will need someone to steady the anvil.

I think I have a small jewelry vise somewhere I can use to set the link.

Yeah, Should work, will let you know!

Ed, I think Larry meant the camshaft sprocket instead of the crankshaft sprocket in the above post....the rule on those open link pin keepers is that the solid end travels in front when the chain is moving... I do hope you change to the solid pin however..... That sledge hammer should be ideal for the anvil function. Greg

ED,

I have used the clip type master links for many years and never had any problem with them. They used to be available thru MB, but they are no longer available as far as I know.

Some replacement chains come with the clip master link, some don't.

Make sure the "head" of the clip, not to the 2 tails, is pointed in the direction of rotation of the chain.

I have also seen master links that have 2 round horseshoe clips instead of the 1 elongated clip.

P E H

In November 1984 MB issued a TSB (for diesels) replacing the "C" clip master link with the peened type . The old style stock was to be returned to MB by Dec. 24, 1984. They changed it for a reason, but the old style obviously worked, probably with a slightly higher misinstallation or failure rate. I could look up the TSB #, but you get the idea.


Bruce

Edit: (couldn't leave it incomplete ;) ) Here's the TSB ref. # 05/54

Split links or not split links!
 

Thanks for the input Guys, but Ill stick with the split link, for two reasons, 1) I cannot get a rivetting type link for this chain as the supplier/maker does not provide them, and, 2) Over many years, and many different engines, some very highly stressed engines, I have used split link chains, with no problems whatsoever. I think MB changed over, probably due to the mis-assembly of these chains, by some Mechanics. Its quite easily done, so I suppose this is the reason why.
The thought of taking a hammer to the chain in an attempt to peen over the link ends, to me, seems a recipie for disaster, hit it wrong and you could loose a cam-sproket, or chip a tooth or wreck the chain, After all, sprockets are only cast iron, and we all know what thats like! Added to that, How do you know if the rivetted ends are secure enough, or conversely, too tight and causing that link to bind with its neighbours?

If you havent got the correct doodad for fitting this pressed in peened type, I would recommend a correctly fitted split link especially when you think what damage will be caused by a link failing.

On a slightly different note, I managed to remove the wayward spring I dropped in to the motor, I had to remove the cam chain tensioner, top guide, and split the chain, Using a long screwdriver, magnetised, I was able to retrieve it without too much bother How would I have done that with a rivetted link!!?

The engine has never run better, so as the old saying goes, If it aint broke, Dont fix it!

Thanks again guys

That's why you back up the link with a heavy hammer or body dolly. You don't have to hit the pin very hard, just lots of times. It works great, no problem.

I do expect that the split clip works okay AS LONG AS YOU PUT IT ON CORRECTLY. I peened the chain into my daughters 300D motor that I overhauled last Winter. It went together easily. I would not hesitate to do this again.

BTW, there were comments in this thread about leather punches and pin punches or something. You don't need any kind of punch, just a medium size ball peen hammer. Use the ball end (amazing, using a ball peen hammer for exactly what it was designed for) and tap the pin ends while backing up the back side of the link with a body dolly or large hammer. Nothing to it. It's cheap and works great.

The peened link is my preference. Each to his own. I'm sure that the TSB from Benz was not sent out for giggles. But, each to their own. After all, it's your car, you can do what you want with it.

Have a great day,

Dont worry about using a split link.Just make sure that the closed end faces the rotation.Motorcycles that turn 12 to 15 thousand revs use the split links with no problem.All I can see about using a link that has to be peened is that it forces more owners into the dealership.

TSB and Chains
 

Im sure that MB also recommends using the special link fitting tool for the chain, Not Hitting with hammers no matter how carefull you are!! or how big your anvil is! The reason that split spring retained chain links are frowned on I think as Michael suggests, is a question of Dealership support, just like BMW and their service interval indicators!, not a question of reliability!
Over the years I must have travelled a million miles on split links!, no probs whatever!