help did my timing chain skip a tooth? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

minzbitz · #1 03-04-2014, 11:52 PM

84 300sd after running every test possible and couldnt solve the smoke at idle, I was tinkering with my idle screw and decided to advance the timing as far as possible. Well poor it clearrd the smoking at idle. All my Marks line up and the tang appears to be in the correct spot when the scribe markes are lined up... The only thing that bothers me about it is the awful injector nailing... I can't seem to see how it could have jumped a tooth??

Any feedback is always appreciated

vstech · #2 03-05-2014, 12:05 AM

no way to skip a tooth... that would put you 18 degrees off... valves would hit at that stretch I'd think... likely it's just stretch, and such...

minzbitz · #3 03-05-2014, 12:37 AM

What about if it jumped at the ip pump itself? Or could the splines on the ip shaft skipped?

Left Coast · #4 03-05-2014, 12:48 AM

You posted in your last thread that you had a broken valve guide. Has that been resolved? You're going to have smoke with a broken valve guide.

Were you ever able to get a good compression test done?

Did you mark the IP position before you started messing with it?

It is virtually impossible for the chain to jump at the IP timer.

Diesel911 · #5 03-05-2014, 12:04 PM

Behind the Camshaft Gear is a Timing Mark. Line exactly with the Timing Mark on the Camshaft Bearing Towner and look down at your Pointer and see what the Crankshaft Dampener degree marks the Pointer is pointing to. That will give you an idea of your Camshaft Timin.
On both of the above avoid looking at them at an angle as it throws off the alignment reading.

minzbitz · #6 03-07-2014, 11:13 PM

Thanks diesel911. What should it be at? And if I want to check or adjust my ip timing does my crank have to be set at 24 btdc or can it be advanced with the crank in any position? Remember I'm not installing a ip I'm simply adjusting ip timing. Reason I ask is everything I read says crank must be at 24 btdc and excuse my lack of knowledge but if it the chain has not jumped or the ip has not been pulled out I can't understand why the crank has to be set at 24 btdc because technically if there is no jumping of the chain that would mean a person would be able to adjust ip timing while the engine is running... Which in turn would pretty much amount to not spending hundreds of dollars on the A-b or RIV timing light. And even better this would give all members the ability to hear what the engine sounds and runs like while adjusting the ip. The only reason I ask you is I have read the previous post as a member asked about adjusting the ip timing while the car is running and there was no further feed back other then yours.

Diesel911 · #7 03-08-2014, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by minzbitz

Thanks diesel911. What should it be at? And if I want to check or adjust my ip timing does my crank have to be set at 24 btdc or can it be advanced with the crank in any position? Remember I'm not installing a ip I'm simply adjusting ip timing. Reason I ask is everything I read says crank must be at 24 btdc and excuse my lack of knowledge but if it the chain has not jumped or the ip has not been pulled out I can't understand why the crank has to be set at 24 btdc because technically if there is no jumping of the chain that would mean a person would be able to adjust ip timing while the engine is running... Which in turn would pretty much amount to not spending hundreds of dollars on the A-b or RIV timing light. And even better this would give all members the ability to hear what the engine sounds and runs like while adjusting the ip. The only reason I ask you is I have read the previous post as a member asked about adjusting the ip timing while the car is running and there was no further feed back other then yours.

The Drip Timing method is cheap and the Method that uses the 24 Degrees before the Compression Stroke as the Timing Mark.

The Factory does not call for the timing to be set while the Enginge is running. Also the Newer Model Engines come with an adjusting Screw so that the timing could be set with the RIV Method while the Engine is running but the MW or M Pumps for the 617 Engines do not have that screw.
Without some sort of Screw setup it is difficult to rotate the Fuel Injection Pump precisely with the Fuel Injection hard Lines in place.

However there is yet another Special Tool that I have seen on Ebay that clamps to the front of the Fuel Injection Pump Housing and has a yoke thet slides over 2 of the Head Bolts. That Tool is used for rotating the Fuel Injection Pump.
In the picture a and b are parts of the above Tool. b is the part that clamps to the front of the Fuel Injection Pump Housing and a is the part that slides over the Head Bolts.
Many years ago one of our Members made something that operated the same way.

In the picture I do not know if a and b are complete; there may be parts missing.