Euro 300 TD 4 Speed in Fairfield Pick and Pull - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

83w126 · #1 03-09-2014, 02:07 PM

Still there as of 3/8/14, Its extremely rusty for a CA car, but it still has the euro M pump and complete 4 speed setup in it.

http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/WDB12319010016025

Deemo13 · #2 03-10-2014, 01:08 AM

Dibs on that driveshaft and transmission! Do you know what they would charge for a driveshaft or a tranny? That's pretty much all I need.

Are you certain its a 4-speed car? Not to doubt you, but I wouldnt really want to drive that far for it to be gone.

OH and the sway bar. Just the rear one I guess.

EDIT: Man this popped up just at the right time. I might be here tomorrow if it has the stuff that I need!

EDIT2: Sorry to edit this a zillion times, but is there a way to remove the tranny without the motor?

cooljjay · #3 03-10-2014, 02:08 AM

Wow.....I would like that bumper and ends....looks very straight....and I would grab any euro goodies left in the inside.

83w126 · #4 03-10-2014, 02:34 AM

There wasn't anything interesting in the interior that I noticed, there is a euro 85 500sec and w116 280se there too though. I was there today and no one had taken the transmission or injection pump yet. I am sure its not an automatic, and pretty sure its not a 5 speed if thats what you were asking.

Mölyapina · #5 03-10-2014, 08:21 AM

Don't leave the FW there either... that's probably the most valuable bit there.

charmalu · #6 03-10-2014, 02:54 PM

Expect to pay around....

$30 drive line
$30 FW
$100.00 Transmission.
$25 Shifter
$10 for each Shift Rod, All depends of how they look at it.
$30 peddle Assy.

Definitely grab that Fly Wheel, that is the 617 38lb Fly Wheel.

Remove the 3 bolts at the flex Disk on the trans. Leave Disk on trans.
Loosen the 46mm large Nut,
Remove the 2 13mm Support Bolts
Remove three bolts at the Diff end, leave Disk on Diff.
Pry DL off Diff Disk and let it drop down.
Pry it loose off the Trans end and slide back, then slide the front section off.
Pry the 3 Clips off each end of the Shift Rods. trans and Shifter. use a long flat blade Screw Driver.

Try to save the Clutch line if possible, usually the connection where the rubber hose screws onto the metal line is so corroded it won`t separate. I just cut the line with some Bolt cutters and deal with it later.
you will need a 17mm and a 12mm (I think) to separate them if possible.

You will need a 10mm hex to remove the 2 Starter Bolts. I have a short 2" piece cut off and use a 10mm Socket or an open end on it to breake them free.

There is then just the 6 or so 17mm bolts trans to engine. Once loose, lay on your back and wiggle the trans back and down to your chest, and roll it off to one side.

Pressure plate has 6 6mm hex bolts.

Fly wheel has 12 Bolts that are a 12 point 12MM. Make sure it is well seated and not cocked, you do not want to strip these. I use a 18" breaker bar to loosen them. I use a 1/2" drive Socket and bar on this one got it a Sears.

The Fw is heavy so make sure you have a good grip on it when the last bolt is removed. Leave the last one loose, and pry the FW to loosen it first. then remove the last bolt. It will hurt you if it falls onto your chest.

Be sure to wear some type of Safety Glasses.

Happy parts pulling.

Charlie

Deemo13 · #7 03-10-2014, 06:06 PM

Darn, totally wish I saw this extremely informative last post. I took the shift linkages and the propshaft with me. Can anyone confirm that the rear part of the driveshaft is the same on all W123's? I also picked up the trans mount. I didnt really plan on taking the transmission with me; it went into reverse without the lift up function whereas my transmission in my 240D requires you to lift up the knob. Thr trans didnt seem that good, but the bushings on the linkages were better than the ones on mine (nonexistant).

They charged me the most for the driveshaft, all in all it came to about $70 for the driveshaft and the linkeages with the trans mount.

As of today, the 617 flywheel is still there. I removed the propshaft off the top and the bottom part is still there, since I figured I only needed the top. I might go grab the FW tomorrow per this guide.

As I noticed, the front bumper was gone and the rear was not in great shape. The motor looked ok visually, but there must have been some reason this car went to the junkyard. It is a definite Euro Wagon, with more rust than a California car should have. The dash has minimal cracking. The gauges are US and it just has the clock instead of the tach. The M pump is also there; I was considering taking that but I dont think it would add performance to my turbo.

What do you guys think? Should I run my car with the 616 or the 617 flywheel? Keep in mind I am a college kid that loves speed (even if it does have to be from an OM617).

vstech · #8 03-10-2014, 07:03 PM

Confirmed. Driveshaft fits all w123 617 4 speed vehicles.

Deemo13 · #9 03-10-2014, 07:05 PM

Also, I just read that I might have to re-balance the front part with the back part of my current 240D driveshaft. Is this true? Should I just have grabbed the back half also insterad of stupidly just grabbing the front half?

charmalu · #10 03-10-2014, 08:55 PM

Going into reverse w/o the lift up function is probably in the shifter, not the transmission. But with a 34 yr old trans, who knows the internal condition of the parts. It`s a crap shoot.

I made a correction on the FW weight. 39lbs not 30 as I listed above. the 240D FW is 28lbs.

The 617 FW won`t make you go faster or get to the next red light quicker, but is suppose to smooth out the 5 cyl engine. Most of us use the 240D when swapping in a 4-spd onto a 617 engine, since this is what is most readably available.

If you are changing your 300D to a manual trans, then use the heavier FW. they are rare as hens teeth.

You will need to get the manual FW match balanced to the auto FW you took off. be sure to look for the marks on the crank and FW before removing them, or mark before removing them. That will cost you about $100.

New FW Bolts will be required also. around $7.50 ea X 12. They are a one time use.

If there are no reference marks of the DL you removed from the JY, then you probably will have to have it balanced to your current one, or if you go back for the rear section.

How is you center Support/bearing? if you replace it. Febi and URO are china made parts. The other brand listed here on Pelican is Rein. UKN where it is made.

You mentioned about the Sway bars. the rear bar is 13mm same as the Sedans as I remember. there was a 15MM one offered for vehicles used in heavy duty work or in a country with bad roads. The front bar on the TD is 2mm thicker than a Sedan bar. Installing one of these in a Sedan will stiffen up the body roll.

Charlie

Deemo13 · #11 03-10-2014, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

Going into reverse w/o the lift up function is probably in the shifter, not the transmission. But with a 34 yr old trans, who knows the internal condition of the parts. It`s a crap shoot.

I made a correction on the FW weight. 39lbs not 30 as I listed above. the 240D FW is 28lbs.

The 617 FW won`t make you go faster or get to the next red light quicker, but is suppose to smooth out the 5 cyl engine. Most of us use the 240D when swapping in a 4-spd onto a 617 engine, since this is what is most readably available.

If you are changing your 300D to a manual trans, then use the heavier FW. they are rare as hens teeth.

You will need to get the manual FW match balanced to the auto FW you took off. be sure to look for the marks on the crank and FW before removing them, or mark before removing them. That will cost you about $100.

New FW Bolts will be required also. around $7.50 ea X 12. They are a one time use.

If there are no reference marks of the DL you removed from the JY, then you probably will have to have it balanced to your current one, or if you go back for the rear section.

How is you center Support/bearing? if you replace it. Febi and URO are china made parts. The other brand listed here on Pelican is Rein. UKN where it is made.

You mentioned about the Sway bars. the rear bar is 13mm same as the Sedans as I remember. there was a 15MM one offered for vehicles used in heavy duty work or in a country with bad roads. The front bar on the TD is 2mm thicker than a Sedan bar. Installing one of these in a Sedan will stiffen up the body roll.

Charlie

Thank you so much for the great advice Charlie! I really appreciate this

I might get the flywheel later this week, since I am going to have a hoist tomorrow, and thus most of tomorrow is going to be removing the motor from my car and taking the other one from the truck so I may return the truck. Wednesday might be when I go to PnP again.

My car is a 240D, and I have a .952 for it. I have most new parts, but I will most likely need a center support bearing; I wouldnt really know how to check it. I might be able to upload a picture? (Of whatever I am going to be looking for).

I'm also probably going to need a new center support. The only brands seem to be Uro and Febi and Rein. Idk about that, might stick with the one I have at that rate, it doesnt look too bad I guess.

Is there a way to check the bearing, or should I just change it anyway? I wouldnt mind changing it for the sake of peace of mind, not that URO would give me any peace of mind. Maybe since Febi is the most expensive, its the lesser evil?

Thanks again
-Josh

EDIT: Also, people going for this car, there isnt really any rust in important places (unless you're looking for body panels). The motor and interior seem to be in decent shape. Someone has already laid claim to the passenger side door card and seat back cover. There is no third row, the interior is blue. It seems as the PO had driven through mud or something, since there was an extensive amount of dried mud inside the transmission mount.

mike-81-240d · #12 03-11-2014, 03:34 AM

I might have to go tomorrow and take that rear bumper. I've been looking for one for ages, if someone takes it before me (especially a coupe/sedan owner) I might be angry.

charmalu · #13 03-11-2014, 11:38 AM

Pelican only offers Uro and Febi and Rein, I just bought the Febi, and it says right on the Box Made in China, also the Febi Trans mount I got said the same. Don`t know about the Rein.

I checked with our Dealer in Monterey, and their whole sale site lists it for $95. But will last as long as you own the car.

I mentioned my problem in my thread about the wobble in our 240D. had the DL rebuilt by a DL shop, and after 33K miles, the rubber in the support was coming apart almost all the way around. If your MB one looks good, even with some small cracks probably will last longer....your call.

My bearing was ok, just the rubber part was bad. I ordered a Fag bearing with the Support and just used it. the other one is good and will keep it.

Charlie

Deemo13 · #14 03-12-2014, 02:34 AM

Man some companies pick the worst brand names.

Mike: If you go for the car whenever, its a couple of rows up right in front where the imports are. I want to say like 4 or 5 rows up. Not very far from the front of the place. I might be there Thursday to see if I cant grab the FW. The bumper didnt really look that good, but it might be workable.

Charlie: I didnt really look at it, will get a good look tomorrow. The MB mount I had seemed to be alright. The one on the junkyard euro was really bad. Also, the rear part of the euro one was considerably thicker than the one on my 240D, is this because of the increase in power?

I might go with the Febi then, but I dont know if I will need it. I also took the DL to a shop yesterday and he is going to balance my Euro shaft with the 240D rear shaft part.

mike-81-240d · #15 03-12-2014, 02:48 AM

Hey bud I ended up going today at lunch.

Someone yoinked the FW, radiator, and M pump right before I got there. Like fluids still gushing out. They threw the transmission itself under the Volvo next door.

I got the pedal assembly, some of the switches, and some other odds and ends from the yard. I'm debating going back and taking the dash trim.

The bumper was seriously fudged, but worst of all someone yanked the light assemblies from it.

Never seen such a rusty W123 before ever... Holy crap