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#1
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Preemptive Ignition Lock Fix
In the past I have disassembled door locks cylinders and removed most of the little leaves so that the key would still turn them. Does anyone think that would that work for the ignition? I never park my car anyplace where I worry about it getting stolen, and it has an original cylinder in place.
I forget now just what I did, but it involved throwing out the worn leaves (pins in most padlocks) and putting things back together. Easy to do and worked great. Will a cylinder from a door work in the ignition? Maybe thats the question. |
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#2
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I did that to my car until it finally failed completely and I had to replace it. You lose all ignition security though, you might as well start it with a house key
__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
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#3
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Quote:
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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#4
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Besides the tumbler, there is a spring-loaded detent ball in the rear that can fail (did in my 1984) and the parts jam the key. Not easy to get at since you must remove the lock stalk and pry off a steel cover at the rear. My key works fine without the detents. A lot of work, but throwing it out there.
If I did it again, I would remove the steering lock shaft. It decreases safety and is one more thing to break. I took thieves about 2 days to figure out how to disable steering locks in U.S. cars, so minimal security value. |
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#6
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Good writeup. I will follow your advice and do this.
It's great to have someone else discover all the landmines-- THanks! |
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#7
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Yeah, but a thief won't know that, so he'll still destroy your stuff trying to defeat the lock.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
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#8
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It will never be as easy as it is right now. . .
If you wait (as I did) for the key to seize in the tumbler, it will take days to fix.
Go to Youtube and see how easy it is to pull the tumbler and jacket before the crisis hits. Cost to fix: New tumbler from MB (uses the same key as original) about $70. The jacket (sleeve) is less. My tool of choice for removing the jacket was the smallest flathead screwdriver in a Radio Shack kit. Better than the recommended paper clip. DO THIS BEFORE THE KEY SEIZES IN THE TUMBLER. |
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#9
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Are there any Mercedes "key" gurus around? About 4 years ago I took over the W201 after my wife died. I've had it since new. Never had a key problem in any of the several I've owned. I had a 'sticky' key soon after I started driving it. Was in a locksmith's shop for something else and while I waited I overheard him talking about key problems with Mercedes to another customer. When my turn came, I asked him about a peremptory 'fix' on mine that was feeling sticky. He asked for my key and showed me a dismantled cylinder he had in his showcase. He claimed that the leaves in the cylinder don't cause the problems. The problem is caused by the rounding and wear on the edges of the key. Sure enough, my key was rounding severely. He cut another key for $35 and I've not had any problems since.
Is the rounding of the edges of the keys the cause of the problem, and therefore the key is the culprit? Or is it wear on the leaves in the cylinder. The leaves he showed me weren't worn and he claimed the key metal was much softer. The new key with the sharp edges seems to be the fix in my case. |
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#10
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The key is often the cause. But the tumblers can also wear due to lack of lubrication. I think the answer is to try a good key before you attack the lock.
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