i just swapped my injection pump on my 83 300cd. before i remoced the old pump, i got the engine crank at 24 degrees. when i wiggled the original pump out, the "notched" mark on the front splines was pointing just about straight down. i got the replacement pump's "notch" in the same location then proceeded to install the pump. this is where i got confused... i could not get ANY fuel out of the delivery valves while priming the hand pump for a long time so i decided to try and hook the hard lines up to the injectors and have a go at starting it. after cranking a couple seconds and pulling on the linkage, it did start but didn't want to stay running unless i kept pulling on the linkage. the engine sounded quite loud (nailing sound) and there was a LOT of smoke. What do i need to do now? did i install the pump and line the splines up correctly? i was going to make a drip test tool with an extra hard line, will that work? i hope im not totally sol

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

oh, and does it sound like my timing is currently advanced or retarded? i know i have absolutely no idea what my timing is in degrees... i don't thing i completely screwed this up because the car will start and run so it must be somewhat close, right?

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

Which means that #1 was on the exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke.

That's because you have not completed the task of installing an injection pump. Setting the timing is a necessary part of the job.

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Tangofox007 has nailed it.

24 degrees will show up on the Exhaust Stroke and also on the Compression Stroke.

It was supposed to be lined up on the Compression Stroke.

To know if it was the Exhaust Stroke or Compression Stroke you could have observed the front two Camshaft Lobes.
When it is coming up on the Compression Stroke one of the Camshaft Lobes will point at about 10 O'clock and the other will point at about 2 O'clock; meaning that the 2 Lobes for sort of a "V".

Personally I would prefer to remove the Valve Cover to see that but others say you can see it by removing the Oil Filler Cap and looking through the hole.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Ok, so this is why people ofter have to rotate the crank another turn? When the engine is at 24 degrees btdc on the compression stroke, where does the notched mark on the IP need to be? And apon removal of the old pump, the collar that joins the timing gears came off. I cleaned it extremely well, but what orientation does the notch inside it need to be on the engine side? Does it even matter? Thank you guys a lot btw! I also found where I messed up on the drip timing! I had no idea about removing the delivery valve so I will do that as well!

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

Set the crank at 24 degrees..

Remove the oil fill cap, confirm both cam lobes on cylinder 1 are bunny eared...

Remove injection pump, line up the notches...and lock the injection pump...

Re install the injection pump..

Bleed all the air out of the pump

Then drip time it...

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What im I lining up the notches with? Don't I need a special tool to lock the pump? Is it completely necessary to do so?

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

No special tool is needed, just line up the notches shown in the photo...



Install a lug nut in the hole, after the bolt is removed in the red circle...just finger tighten it..

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There is a reference mark on the IP. (A number of IP's were mismarked at the factory and require special handling. See the 617.95 FSM.)

It is not necessary.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

A lug nut?

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

Ok, so set engine to 24 degrees on the compression stroke, align the notch on the IP splines to the notch on the "body" of the pump Then the pump can be installed for the for drip timing? What about the orientation of the coupling notch? Am I missing any steps?

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

yes a lug nut, it has the same threads as the factory lock tool....it does a fine job of locking the cam in the ip.

Yes you've got all the steps right.....the mounting holes of the bolts to the block are oval shape to all for movement.....just make sure the shaft is centered in the holes to allow movement when timing.

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Sure you don't mean "lug bolt?"

If the treads are on the outside, it's probably not a nut.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

before i install, can someone tell me if everything looks good? I know the crank isn't at exactly 24 degrees but you get the idea. am i in the compression stroke? is my IP in the right orientation for installation? and do i match up the slot in the coupling with the notch on the IP splines?

Attached Thumbnails

       

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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect

Trying to see 3D in a 2D picture is a challenge, but I don't think so.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.