Hi all, I am replacing the nozzles in a 300d 2.5. I have the nozzles and poptester, heat shields, shims etc on the way from Mercedes source. I just figured I would have the socket needed to get the injectors out. any advice on such a tool?

secondly, I also have new braided return hose on the way. how does the old stuff come off the barbs? I cant find any clamps.

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'92 300D 2.5
'99 E300TD

I'll leave the injector answer to someone who knows more about it.

The return hose just slips over the barbs. The pressure is low in those lines. No need for clamps. They should just pull off by hand or with some needle nose pliers.

However sometimes they are not changed often enough and they get very brittle and don't want to let go. In such a situation, you can CAREfully cut them off with a razor blade. The CARE part is to avoid scoring the barbs. If you score them they will always leak slightly.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

That socket is super expensive. Would anything else work?

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'92 300D 2.5
'99 E300TD

No personal experience, but this might work:

$11.00 New 27mm Cutout Injector Socket. 1/2" Drive This is a special socket to remove the injectors. Fits all Diesel with Indirect Injection (79-85 Rabbit, 85-96 Golf, 79-96 Jetta, 82-84 Quantum, 88-95 Passat, 82-85 Vanagon). Volkswagen

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

Use a long, deep socket 1 1/16 to remove the injectors.

Jeff

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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

There are folks who have done that and wish they hadn't. (Some have even posted about their misfortune on this very forum.)

An ordinary deep socket has a propensity for mangling return line nipples.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

The 27mm cutout injector socket works fine. I picked one up on ebay for tool and shipping for less than $20

I used a socket from my Harbor Freight deep impact metric set, w/ a 1/2" breaker bar. 27 mm rings a bell. If really worried, buy a long 3/4" breaker and socket. Even my wife could unscrew them with that. Didn't mar or bend the return nipples (remove the tubes first).

I assume you have a pop tester, since you have shims.

I have an old 1-1/16 Inch Craftsmans Socket I have used since the 1970s. It is an extra deep 12 point socket. However, when they starte Laser engraving the Sockts they changed them internally.

In general the 12 Point sockets won't mangle the little Hose Barbs. 6 Piont Sockets are the ones that have a high potential of mangeling the Nipples depending on the Positon of the Nipples compared to the 6 point Hex.
Not a good pic of the socket but what you want ot see is a deep socket that is deep straight down inside all the way to the square drive.

The cheap deep sockets when you look inside will have more metal between the Square drive and the area where the Injector would go an typically you see a round hole inside of the socket.

After that it simply has to be long enough.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This thread address it:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/335178-tools-injector-removal-84-300sd-3.html
and post 35 gives my eventual, low-ish price solution:

For anyone looking for that Craftsman socket from Sears:
Mach4 mentioned previously the current 1 1/16 deep 6 point socket (#50756) and I had good luck with the current 1 1/16 deep 12 point socket (#50767). Both are $10.69 at Sears.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

Have this one, works flawlessly every time.

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CENSORED due to not family friendly words

I had the misfortune of using a 1 1/16 socket on my first car's injectors... Cracked the barbs on all 5 and they never stopped leaking.

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1981 300TD 4 speed manual
Euro bumpers, zender valance and skirts, H&R springs, billy HD's, leveled sls, real AMG Pentas 16x8 et11, vdo boost/egt gauges intergrated into ash tray, eurolights, led 3rd brake light

Once you get the injectors on the bench, see the video series in my signature.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

As diesel911 mentioned, the older Craftsman sockets were deeper.

I have a 12pt deep Craftsman part# 47532. It is deep almost to the end. I have looked at the newer ones they offer, (27mm & 1 1/16") they may be a deep socket, the depth goes only about 1/2 way. Same at Lowes.

Seems like a lot of Deep Sockets are just long Sockets that are shallow in other sizes too.


The link Tangofox007 posted is an interesting one.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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