Considering taking a stab at my exhaust. It is pretty rotten aside from the front pipe.

My plan is to get the OE style front section and resonator combo, then just run pipe out the back (delete rear muffler). Given the odd OE size, I assume this will require adapting pipe sizes.

What is really scaring me is the lovely, rusty flange where the front pipe joins the middle section. I am assuming that getting that off won't be pretty. And will I be able to get new parts properly and sealed up....

I have never messed with stuff like that. Is it practical or should I just let a shop do it?

Thanks

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

I got all the parts in yesterday since my fell part during my differential install. Pictures and my problem issues (if any) this weekend.

I haven't really got many pictures of that type of work - I hate doing exhausts myself.

If I had a lift I'd be happier doing the work - working with just jacks and axle stands is rough for exhaust work.

Although it sounds mad I advocate removing the whole effing thing from the manifold (leave manifold in place) all the way to the back - dragging it out from under the car and then doing the necessary.

In principle exhaust work is very simple - just a pipe isn't it? But the problem of access, rust, muck and stubbornness can make a simple job a real pain in the arse.

The worst thing about this job is cutting your self and then getting exhaust dust rubbed into the wound.

Wear eye protection and gloves

Buy some exhaust paste and fit disturbed joints with it - nothing worse than putting together an exhaust "dry" only to have the sodding thing leak...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I can say that all the parts new cost under $300.00. that includes new center pipe with resonator, new muffler, new hangers, and new hardware kit. All OEM. It looks pretty easy. I am planning on this job in the AM on Saturday. I will post pictures along the way, but here's my disclaimer. I suck at pictures and discriptions. Some folks have PM'd me and said I show the beginning picture, mid-way picture, and final picture -- worst than Haynes. So, I will try my best.

Look forward to seeing your writeup, Greazzer.

I agree on the price, my intention to take out the rear muffler is just because from the accounts of the folks who have experimented with straight pipe setups, the resonator is doing most of the work.

Deleting the muffler gives a slightly funkier exhaust tone and removes the item that in my local climate is guaranteed to rot away again first.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

I've done this on every Benz I've ever owned, including my old 300CD. I usually replace it end to end, to avoid messing with rusty flanges and slip collars. Flanges aren't all that hard to deal with...if the bolts don't turn, you can usually just grind off the bolts. If you're trying to seal old to new, I have a product that will help you quite a bit: CoolCat Express Corp.: Walker Acoustiseal Exhaust Sealant I have to agree that the best way to do this is to drop the entire mess as a unit, and then replace with new. It ends up cheaper in the long run, and it works right the first time.

It's a pud job. Get the car up, you get down low. Wear safety glasses. An idjut can do. Save a lot of frustration and redo, go with an all new system - it's the only smart way. Use new rubber hangers at the back and make sure the center bracket is where it should be. With all new parts one should be able to do it in an hour.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

Did the entire exhaust from front to back....whatta PITA without a lift. The most challenging part was the makeup between the manifold and the flex section. Tight clearance on your back with (rustbelt) debris falling toward you. With a lift, it's almost a breeze. I wouldn't replace just part of it...the time you spend splicing things together only to have the old pieces go in a year or two doesn't make sense (to me anyway).

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1985 300D 172,110mi and goin' strong

is there a stainless option for the exhaust?

I did it on the 240D, just replaced everything with dealer parts. The hardest part was the nasty bolts connecting the foremost portion to the manifold. I recall blood being shed. I actually was able to do it all without jacking up the car ... bit of a physical trial but not torture. I think the parts were less than $300, and easy to fit together. No leaks (that I'm aware of).

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Mercedes 1977-84 240D, 300D, CD and TD Exhaust Systems

No idea on Timevalve's pricing.

I believe some Walker components are listed as stainless, but not sure if an entire system is available from them.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Iam thinking if you remove the rear Muffler, you might get some droning in the cabin. Leave the rear one and remove the center one.

They are both a straight through design. there is no baffles to slow down the Exhaust flow like a gasser that creates back pressure.








Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Cool pictures Charlie

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Here's a cruddy video of what my 84 sounded like with the rear muffler deleted.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zc3aNsfOkJ8

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1981 300TD 4 speed manual
Euro bumpers, zender valance and skirts, H&R springs, billy HD's, leveled sls, real AMG Pentas 16x8 et11, vdo boost/egt gauges intergrated into ash tray, eurolights, led 3rd brake light

Timevalve still lists a stainless exhaust, although I don't know if they actually still make it. Ordinary steel exhausts seem to last seven to ten years on Diesel cars, I've never felt the need to go stainless.