I would recommend that you forget the entire "pressure versus torque" idea. It might sound good in theory. In practice, it is not going to work.

There is more to injector testing than just setting actuation pressure. Like observing the spray pattern, for one. There is no guarantee that a new nozzle is going to spray properly.

I feel real lucky if 2-3 injectors in a set don't require further adjustment after reassembly. Not once, ever, have I had a full set come out within spec. Not one time.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

ok... know this...

the torque setting on the injector bodies needs to be to spec. it has NOTHING to do with pop pressure... if you attempt to adjust pop pressure by torquing the injector bodies... you will damage the bodies.

pop pressure is accomplished by altering the spacing between the spring and the nozzle you need to lap the body for reducing clearance between them, or add/subtract shims...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

How about "Install the appropriate shim?" No other options need to be considered.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

Agree with all you said. There is no way of knowing if your new nozzles have good spray patterns without pop testing.

I did have a set of 5 Monark nozzles I installed on my 83 300D (since sold) that needed no shim adjustments or lapping with abrasives. All I did was rub the intermediate discs on a piece of paper to get rid of most of the "ring" on the mating surfaces, if that can be called lapping. All five nozzles popped tested in spec with good spray patterns, no peeing or drips. I was impressed with the quality of that set of Monarks.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Oh man, I hope you guys aren't under the impression that I think I can make the NEW nozzles work by playing with the amount of torque during reassembly... I was responding to the idea that the OLD nozzles won't even work now since I didn't mark the two halves so I could line those marks back up. Realigning the housing to the way it was originally would be a question of an unknown amount of torque, would it not?

Anyway, I should have quoted the part I was responding to and been more clear. I'm also not going to do that because it would involve an endless amount of removing the injectors, taking them apart, putting them back on, purging the air, seeing if it runs right... Blech.

Old nozzles or bust today. I hope the car knows what's good for it.

-Rog

Get a pop tester or find someone who has one and knows how to use it. Any further fiddling with the injectors is only going to end in frustration.

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CENSORED due to not family friendly words

I know, believe me. I just can't afford to put more money into this right now.

The old nozzles give the same nailing, popping, and smoking. Obviously I'm just completely incompetent at this one thing.

Please let this thread die now. I already know I made a mistake, I don't need to be told it for ten more pages or anything.

-Rog

You've already spent the bulk of the money in getting new nozzles. It might be worth phoning a couple local injector shops to see what they want. Since you'll only be paying for labor it might not be as much as you'd think.

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

There is no shop that I have ever heard of that can do as good and inexpensive of a job as Greazzer. Most shops charge ridiculous prices for injector service.

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

It's just better to learn yourself.
It is true injector and Diesel shops are rip-off shops (last resort if you aren't handy).
I have learned also that Monark injectors are really crap in my experience. May be a bad batch, or maybe the 617s just don't like them.

Monarks, actually Monark-DES (DES = Dresdner Einspritz Systeme) are the last German made nozzles out there. Bosch were being made in France, now India, and most likely China. Other options are Bosio, made in Italy. There are others ...

I am hard pressed to believe and unconvinced that other countries will make a superior nozzle. Bosios are nice, and they spray slightly more fuel, but I cannot say that Bosios are better.

shouldn't Bosch Rebuilds from our host be good to go or do I need to find somebody to cal them?

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1993 MB 300D 245K died.

Wowza ... just checked. They are $71.75 a piece and they are Indian Made ..., so with shipping, that's pushing $375.00 for a set of 5. Personally, and just my preferance, I would opt for German made nozzle holders vs. Indian made or French made and that goes for the nozzles too.

In all fairness, unless one orders one injector at a time, shipping would appear to be free.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

too late. already used going to PM you in a bit

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1993 MB 300D 245K died.