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#1
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96/97 Key Fob IR remote
Ok so the 96/97 have the single button key fobs that lock and unlock the doors and turn off the immobilizer. However the imobilizer can also be disabled via unlocking the driver door with a master cut key.
Can you re-program the IR lock/unlock/imobilizer disable part of the key fob and match it up with a cut blank? I know the cut blank part is possible. I have read threads that suggest the answer is no but I have yet to see a definitive thread. I really don't want to spend $200+ at the stealer but I will probably get a master cut at my indy for emergencies
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My Daily : 96 E-300 Diesel with 195,000 miles Retired: 92 300D 2.5 T 345K miles and for sale Retired: 95 E320 157K miles and currently parked with blown engine Both retired cars are for sale as is my w124 shop inventory |
#2
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Don't know about the '96, but the '97 has a Driver Authorization System chip inside the switchblade key fob (and embedded in the head of the flat key) that is programmed to the VIN and cannot be reprogrammed. The DAS interfaces at the ignition tumbler and has nothing to do with the locks on the car.
I don't think the '96 has this so you might be OK, I'm sure other '96 owners will add their two cents.
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Charlie --------------------------- '66 VW 1300 96K miles '97 E300D 239K miles '85 300D 203K miles (sold Sep 2012) |
#3
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There were (at least) three versions of the '96 w210. The earliest, including mine (s/n ~5000) do not have DAS. To test for DAS, get in the car, lock yourself in with the IR remote, then start the car with the key. If the car starts (the alarm may start beeping its horn), there is no DAS. If the car will not start, the car has DAS. I don't know if "won't start" means won't crank or won't run.
Later cars of that MY have DAS but do not have the chip and sensor ring (DAS is activated by setting the alarm). Even later versions add the chip in the switchblade and the ring around the ignition switch. I will also add that there is confusion at MB dealers as to the kind of ignition switch. My '96 has a mechanical switch but the dealer's EPC said it was electronic and, of course, much more expensive. I had to bring in my failed switch to prove it; the dealer finally found an S-class switch that was almost identical to mine. In the end, I discovered the problem with the switch was burned contacts in the starter position and fixed it myself so I have a spare. My opinion is that the dealer is the only option for a key that will work with DAS. Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#4
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Mine will crank, the alarm goes off but won't turn over. Looks like I am stuck with the dealer if I want a functional key fob. This is consistent with how I have seen the DAS described in other threads. Thanks
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My Daily : 96 E-300 Diesel with 195,000 miles Retired: 92 300D 2.5 T 345K miles and for sale Retired: 95 E320 157K miles and currently parked with blown engine Both retired cars are for sale as is my w124 shop inventory |
#5
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When I drilled through the chip on my flat key, my car ('97) would crank fine, i.e. it would turn over, but it would not fire. A new flat key solved the problem. I thought the '96s did not have the chip in the key, but if you think yours does, a new flat key might be the cheapest way to go..
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'97 E 300 D |
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