Howdy,

I know this subject has been beaten to death on PP and all around the net, but I'm freaking out at the moment because my '85 300TD has just turned into a four thousand pound paperweight. It's blocking in mom's car in the driveway and the key won't move over in the tumbler.

It always worked previously, although it needed help getting from cranking position back to running position. It was on the list to fix eventually.

Okay, so I know I can get the tumbler out by turning the key over and sticking a pin in there. But the key ain't turnin'

So does this mean I have to drill out the tumbler, or do I have to remove the whole assembly.

Could something with the NSS happened b/c I keyed the car to radio + lights on, and put it into neutral to let it roll down driveway so I could roll trash can between front bumper and other car's rear. ?

But Then the key would move in the tumbler then wouldn't it.

Thank you so much in advance

Think about all of the parts of the car that do work. You can hotwire a W123 so that it will start and go forward and back, but the steering will be locked until you fix this by unjamming or removing the tumbler. If you can get it into neutral you can roll it out of the way to get your mom's car out of the drive. If there's an electrical interlock on the shifter that can be fooled or defeated. Pull the shutoff servo vacuum line and use a remote starter switch to crank and start the engine if need be.

With a manual this is easy, just neutral and roll out of the way, roll it back till your problem is fixed.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

The key turning is a purely mechanical operation. Make sure the wheel locking pin isn't binding against the tumbler - I know that's overly obvious but need to cover those bases first.

Sometimes banging on the lock assembly with a rubber mallet can free things up, or getting something vibrating against it can work. Spray some powdered graphite in there to maybe lube things a bit. Try the key in different positions while you apply medium pressure. Try the key upside down too.

I'm sure others will have some additional suggestions before it's time to get the drill out...not a fun project.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

If you have more than one ignition key, make sure you try every one.

Sometimes a newer, or an older, key will work that one last time... which is all you need.

IF one does work... for heaven's sake don't take the key out again!

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

This is just a royal PIA.

I rolled it out of the way for now, just had a hell of an awkward time winching it back up the driveway and out of the way. Lots of sweat lost there. Going to wake up early tomorrow and jiggle until I get it to turn or not.

IF I get the key to knock the pins and turn the tumbler, I want a new tumbler + key set that will match the door locks. So my question is do I go to dealer and can they cut / match one on the spot (while car is running / key turned ) with my VIN? Or is this a special order. I could just get a new one and install that temporarily while I wait for VIN spec I guess.

Secondly, If I have to drill out, I am worried about the size and depth of the bore. How deep should I go, and how far away from the key slot?

Many thanks.

This is what happened to my 1987 300D. It took me 1/2 hour to wiggle it to position 1 and I LEFT it there. I thought I was done for. I made a tool using a cloth hanger, you need to sharpen both ends at about 60 degree facing inwards. There is a thread here on how to make the release tool. I removed the tumbler almost at the first try. The tumbler is held in place by an indent, whatever it means ( it is like a spring loaded lever ). The wire pushes indent in and the tumbler will come out. I remove all the broken key pieces so that any key, or a screw driver can turn the tumbler to start the car. The reason is that it takes the dealer 2-3 days to key the tumbler for you with 1 new key. I can start the car literally with any inserts in the mean time.

It may be possible to just drill 2 small holes, visualize where the 2 holes will be if you could turn the tumbler to position 1. I would then try using the cloth hanger tool to release the tumbler. I have not done it that way but it may be possible. You have nothing to lose since you have to drill out the whole thing anyway. W123 and W124 tumbler should be similar. Good luck.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

I don't know if this will help in your case, but my ignition and door locks were getting harder and harder to turn using the original key (have the exact same car, BTW). I took it to a very good locksmith and he knew exactly what was wrong just by looking and cut a new key that now works perfectly. The bill was $6, so that might be worth a shot if it feels like the key might just be worn.

-Rog

I have not read all of the Posts so this could be a repeat.

If you cannot get the Steerring Colum to unlock all that is left is to remove the Kick Panel to expose under the Dash and grind or drill out the Locking Pin shown in the Picture.

Once that is done there is a clamp near by that needs to be loosened and some People have found it easier to lower the Steering Wheel Colum and remove the Steering Colum Lock Tumbler and all.

Bolt the Steering Colum back into place and use a Jumper Wire to crank the Starter and get the Car started and move the Car. You Alternator is not going to Charge so I don't advise driving a long ways like that so you cannot drive the Car a long ways espically if you need to use the Lights.

Otherwise become a Memeber of an Auto Club and have the Car Towed out of the Drive Way som Mom's Car can be moved and have have the Mercedes put in Mom's Cars Place.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am going to add twist. When I though I had a Lock Tumbler problem it turned out the innards of the Steering Colum Lock were broke in 2 Places.
You can purchase the whole Steering Colum Lock Assembly and it comes with a New Ignition Switch and Vacuum Shutoff Valve.

The one I bought was from the Mercedes Dealer and it had Made in France on the Box and cast into the Steering Colum Lock housing was Neiman.

Neiman/Valeo Made in France Steering Colum Locks sell for about $20 less than the the one I got from the Dealer about 3 Years ago.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I got a key turned over! 20 Minutes of yanking and tapping and no Avail. Slumped head, defeated. Threw key at garage door, picked it up told it I was sorry, and said heck, why not try it one more time! IT WORKED! Just waiting for the MB dealer to open. Going to get any tumbler I can find, and most likely will have to buy the ignition removal tools and bite the bullet.

This is funny:

So around 1 am last night on a quiet residential street in South Florida one could witness a 85 TD being pushed by a Crown Vic with flashing lights on the roof.

I went out to wiggle the key around with a flashlight after not being able to sleep due to this problem, and they Police officers must have just seen a flashlight bouncing around the dash, and the car rocking a bit.

Suspicious

So basically they thought I was trying to steal it, but that theory of theirs quickly dissipated when I exited the car with my hands above my head in my pajamas, and with the correct key. They didn't even ask for my license or registration.

So I rolled down the driveway and they helped me push it up a sloped street to a parking spot by hand, but that was slow. So I half joked that they should use their car. They initially thought no way. But one officer convinced the other as they were apparently bound to get either a new Charger or Fusion in a few weeks. So that's my DIY on how to use a crown vic to push a W123, and get the most of your tax dollars. What a wild nite.

So I have the key "cocked" in the tumbler ready to turn. My question is how far before I turn it will it go before it completes the circuit IE draws battery?

I have to leave it like this for 2-3 days before I can get a VIN Spec Tumbler from the Dealer.

Will my battery die? Best to Just unhook?

Thanks

Unbutton the battery and move the lock to second position. Don't mess with it until you get the new cylinder.

It might give you some reassurance to understand how to deal with stuck locks. The Mercedes lock has a fairly simple cylinder. If you look at my faq on repairing lock cylinders, you can get an idea of what it looks like inside:

Lock190

Specifically, this photo show how the extended pins engage the cylinder:

http://www.coolcatcorp.com/Mercedes/benz006.jpg

The pins will engage a slot in the cylinder and keep it from turning. Normally, inserting the key will pull them in flush, but what's happened is that either the pins are worn so that they don't come in all the way, or the key is worn. When it's right, this is what happens when the key is inserted:

http://www.coolcatcorp.com/Mercedes/benz007.jpg

To get a stuck cylinder to turn, what you want to do is maintain continuous clockwise pressure on the cylinder, while rapidly jiggling the key in and out. The idea is to kick the pins up a bit and get them to clear the cylinder, holding clockwise pressure should keep them up by friction. It may also help to review the Toool slide show:

The Open Organisation Of Lockpickers :: Resources for Learning More

As you probably know, once the cylinder is in "second position", it's easy enough to release the cylinder and pull it out.

I have exactly this situation right now. I have been trying to release the tumbler with all manner of improvised tools, none have worked.

So I have to leave the one key that still turns the tumbler at all, in the car at all times.

What works for me, is that when I switch the key off, I turn it to the full OFF position quickly then immediately, in one fluid motion, turn it back toward (but not all the way to) ACC with no stop whatsoever. In that way, I 'beat' the lock from engaging (the lock takes a split second).

You have to do this on the diesel, because if you don't hit the OFF stop, the key won't return to the START position, no starter engagement.

I am able to leave the key halfway between the OFF and the ACC position. I have a charging meter plugged into my lighter socket so I know immediately if I am in the dead zone, or have turned to far and activated the power.

I am going to try one or two more things, to release the tumbler. If they do not work, I may snap the key off in the lock in the ACC position, then drill out the tiny access hole and the locking tab itself. I figure I have to break the key off in order to get the drill into the hole, even a drill extension won't clear the key head.

__________________


Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

I'll bet the dealer would be willing to remove the tumbler for you, for a small price, and then you simply use a flat screwdriver to operate the ignition until the new tumbler arrives.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

I would remove the tumbler and use a screw driver to start the car until you get a new one. I used a jewelers screw driver to get the old one out in my old 280E. The black surround can be unscrewed once you get it to release. I think there is a how to in the wiki here.