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My advice: Change the engine oil to Mobil 1 0w-40, drive it for several thousand miles AND report back.
Rebuilding the delivery valves can't hurt. Checking the injection pump timing can't hurt. Pulling the injectors and having them tested can't hurt. Many many things you can try... |
I just redid the delivery valve seals on my SDL. It took almost 300 miles for the injector clacking to die out.
-J |
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Just placed the order for everything I need to pull the vacuum pump and IP. It's work that has to be done and may solve the issue. I had one mechanic that works on big diesels tell me that if it was a rod the engine would be toast by now. Loosing the knock by pulling the IM and having it return after the IM was replaced has me scratching my head. It keeps bringing me back to some kind of full issue. I also own a '82 240D that wore out somewhere north of 400,000 miles. It never gave me a lick of trouble. This one is really making me step up the learning curve. Need to set up for some video that I will post a little later. |
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-J |
When I replace the DV springs on my '87 wagon, the old were shorter than the new. I assume they were tired and had lost some of their strength.
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Lets see if this works.
http://http://s776.photobucket.com/user/Precision32/media/350SDL-HOT.mp4.html |
There is a video forum way down on the main page.
I don't think its a simple task to accomplish that here. People do it, but they are mostly magicians and such. Drop a link here or post the video in the video forum then link to it here. |
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I've done 5 3.5L to 3.0L swaps in the W126 chassis. They're cake easy. My record is 9 hours to pull both with trans separate, and reinstall into the target car. I have one 3.0L left. If you end up needing it, just let me know.
I'm in VA, so may be too far away from you... Quote:
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Well the story gets more interesting. The head on the engine is a #14 casting. From the info I can glean from the net, this is the worse head out there. I believe this head was used on the 3.0L engines. Is this correct?
After pressure cleaning the engine I note fresh oil coming from the two large screw plugs in the head on the drivers side of the head. I also note oil in two tapped holes that hold the intake to the head at the #3 and #4 intake ports. I'm also getting oil coming out of the turbo-charger as the engine rpms come up. |
You need a new (or rebuilt) turbocharger. You've got a couple oil leaks at the two large screw plugs on the driver's side of the head. I wouldn't worry about the oil in the tapped holes for the intake manifold.
Fix those (or not), drive the car and enjoy it. I'll bet that the engine tick resolves itself. |
Cranked and ran the engine some this afternoon. I opened up each fuel inlet to each injector one at a time. As I did this I increased the RPMs to see if it made any difference in the sound of the engine. I have the intake off the engine which takes the turbo out of the equation. None of this seemed to make any difference in the knock.
At one point I revved up the RPMs and the engine backfired out of the #4 intake port. I got peppered with small bits of something but was unable to catch any of them. The turbo is leaking oil into the intake. As the RPMs come up I can see it at the discharge connection to the intake cross over pipe fitting. Could this oil have caused a carbon build up that creaking the noise I'm getting? Where is the best place to get a rebuild kit for the Garret T3 turbo? |
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