My rear brake junction has some rust and appears to be sweating a bit. I presume this means it is failing? Thoughts on the picture below?

Does one buy mercedes brake line that is pre-bent, or should I try to bend a straight line?

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W201 1989 190D

That's not good - that wouldn't pass a safety inspection over here.

The dealer pipes are not pre-bent but they do come with the pre-formed ends and nuts in place.

They are not cheap.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
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1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Your line is nearly done. I'd replace it pronto. I don't consider the dealer brake lines worth the cost, as they aren't bent to shape.

Many local autoparts stores sell straight SAE, metric Asian, and metric European brake line that you'll need to bend to fit. The SAE and Asian line connections typically use a double-flare, while European lines usually have what's called a bubble-flare. Replace the whole line if possible. Otherwise, you'll need to get a brake-line flaring tool and splice the new line to a good section of the original with a flare-union.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

If you can get the factory line out in 1 piece and not mangled, you can use it as a template to bend a new line, or have a new line bent by someone in the business.

Steve

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Actually another point...that line runs all the way from front to back, up over the IRS, and up and around the brake master. It's hard to remove or install in one piece, especially without a lift. You may find it easier to cut it and install with an intermediate flare union.

Do not replace with steel lines! Use Cunifer which will not rust and easy to bend by hand. You can get them in various lengths with fittings or buy a roll and make your own. Autozone, Advance will have them.

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Here is a link to info on Cunifer Brake line. Probably out last the car.

Brake line repair made easy. Where to buy brake line, fuel line, brake line flaring tools, brake line nuts and brake line fittings


I was trying to think of the name of the stuff, thanks Funola for kick starting my old brain. You young guys are quick.


Charlie

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What is cunifer?

What is cunifer pipe

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I might have my head round the wrong way but I think that's a short pipe going to a wheel. Still whatever there is a chance that more damage will be done removing that line - those joints don't like to let go. I had to heat mine to get them to separate.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

It might be worth a try looking at the scrap yard. I know I found an entire good set of brake lines, clean with no corrosion, even still had the original green coating in good shape. Put them on my '79 which had horrible corrosion internally, that lead to every line fitting getting rounded off and vice-gripped out...

Anyway I think in the end I spent less than $20 for all the lines and they were obviously just the right shape, no bending needed.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

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Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!

MXFrank - I believe, it is not the line from the booster, but rather the line from the junction to the rear wheel.

I decided that I would take it to the Indy this morning - I've had trouble bleeding brakes in the past with my homemade brake bleeder. He recommended buying the hard line from the dealer, which we did.

I assumed that it came pre-bent, but Stretch you suggest otherwise. Will check back with them tonight.

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W201 1989 190D

Winner! Winner! Chicken Dinner!

You'll pay twice the price for the Cunifer lines and once your done you will admit that three times the price over steel is still a great bargain! The ease of working with that material over steel is worth every penny, the only caution is if you're flaring the Cunifer yourself it's softer than steel and you'll need much less force to form the bubble flare correctly.

Take a piece of string and use that to measure the length of the original brake line section you're replacing, that way you might just luck out and the store will have exactly what you need pre-flared at both ends making things easier for you. Make sure you use a pair of Vice Grips to steady that brass T-junction once you're ready to try and break the old line's fitting free, a couple days of KROIL on the fitting's threads will never be wasted.

If you're going to be fooling with cars and their brake lines in the future a very worthwhile investment is a pair of tube bending pliers, luckily there is a very decent pair available at a really fair price from everyone's favorite Chinese tool store Harbor Freight $12 well spent the first time you need and use them

Tube Bending Pliers

the Cunifer bends pretty easily with just your hands, but sometimes particularly when you get close to the line ends at the master cylinder or at a junction like in this case you can't get your hands in there to move the bend that couple more or less degrees that you need to line it up square and straight so as to avoid possibly cross threading the connection. With these pliers you get it as close as you can as you get the line in place and then you can reach in and bend that last inch or two section so it's lined up perfectly and avoid frustration and problems as you're lying on your back with all that dirt and rust falling into your face, makes the $12 "investment" seem like $120 value in the end.

This is a pic of the W201.126 F15D 190D 2.5 SEDAN NORTH AMERICA

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel