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  #1  
Old 05-22-2014, 04:58 PM
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OM606 Injection timing

Hey Guys,

My injection timing is way off on my 96 E300D. I had another thread going partially on this topic but I decided to start a new topic because now I have definitely concluded that the timing is way off. I purchased this car not running and fixed a few other problems to get it running. The previous owner must have taken the injection pump off and not set if correctly in an effort to get the car started.

My question is how to best set the timing form the ground up. I found a few bits of information, but am not sure if I see everything that has to come off to turn the pump to the proper timing. Does anybody have some information on this. Do I completely have to remove the pump? or can I partially disassemble to get the pump set correctly?

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Old 05-22-2014, 06:01 PM
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This is from memory, but I just did it a week ago.

You have to remove the pump.

Set the crank to 15 degrees after TDC. Turn clockwise by hand.
Remove the viewing port plug on the IP
Use a mirror and light to check for the timing ridge. If it is in the center of the window, then the timing is correct. If not, proceed.

Remove the intake manifold
Release the fan belt tension.
Remove the upper radiator hose
Remove the power steering pump pulley
Remove the vacuum pump
Disconnect the fuel lines to the IP
Disconnect the hard lines that go to the injectors. It will be easier if you remove them all together.
Disconnect the fuel return line from the engine side of the IP
Unplug the fuel control valve electrical connection
Unplug the IP harness on the PS of the engine compartment
Remove the center bolt in the timing gear. IT IS LEFT HAND THREADED.
Remove the chain tensioner. PS of the block, inline with the timing chain path.
Remove the rear IP mounting bracket to the block
Remove the 3 mounting bolts
Remove the IP to the rear and up and out. Try not the touch the battery cable connection on the starter when doing this. It would not be a bad idea to block that connect off with something non-conductive.
Retrieve the timing adjustment assembly. It will still be attached to the block.

Turn the pump until the timing ridge is in the center of the viewing port.
Lock the pump timing in place.
You can purchase a tool for this job or make your own : http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/354302-diy-ip-timing-lock.html
Reinstall the pump as far as:
make sure the IP timing adjustment assembly is in place and the head is in the notch properly
the pump shaft splines are fully engaged in the timing gear and the center bolt is in place
the 3 mounting bolts are installed and holding the pump in place, but not tightened yet
the chain tensioner is reinstalled

At this point I rotate the crank 2 twice by hand and check the timing of the IP. If it is OK, then I finish the install.

Do not forget to finish tightening the center bolt on the timing gear.
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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO

Last edited by GregMN; 05-22-2014 at 06:13 PM.
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  #3  
Old 05-22-2014, 06:24 PM
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If you are in the neighborhood before May 31st, I can check your timing for free. After that, you can rent it.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/354973-free-injection-pump-timing-checks-till-may-31-2014-a.html
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:44 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. I actually just started this job tonight and got as far as taking the vac pump off. Had to remove the radiator because onw of the allen bolts was stripped holidng the pump in place and I could not get it out without having to remove the radiator.

The question that I had was when timing the IP pump I wanted to make sure that I have everything correct. What is confusing me is that I have to bring the engine to the proper 15 degreees. There are 2 aspects to this. Point 1. What is logical to me is that the ration between the engine and the pump should be 2:1. Now how do I know which cylce is the injection cycle to set my pump to? I saw a couple of marks on the chain sprocket when you open the oil cap, but neither one is visible when I set the engine at 15 degrees. I wonder if the entire timing chain is timed correctly. Should there be a mark on a sprocket to let me know which 15 degrees is correct for the injection cycle.

Point 2: The timing is set at 15 degrees after TDC. When you looking at the flywheel which way is after TDC. Is it 15 degrees to the left of TDC or to the right of TDC?
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kolnerspieler View Post
Thanks for the info guys. I actually just started this job tonight and got as far as taking the vac pump off. Had to remove the radiator because onw of the allen bolts was stripped holidng the pump in place and I could not get it out without having to remove the radiator.

The question that I had was when timing the IP pump I wanted to make sure that I have everything correct. What is confusing me is that I have to bring the engine to the proper 15 degreees. There are 2 aspects to this. Point 1. What is logical to me is that the ration between the engine and the pump should be 2:1. Now how do I know which cylce is the injection cycle to set my pump to? I saw a couple of marks on the chain sprocket when you open the oil cap, but neither one is visible when I set the engine at 15 degrees. I wonder if the entire timing chain is timed correctly. Should there be a mark on a sprocket to let me know which 15 degrees is correct for the injection cycle.

Point 2: The timing is set at 15 degrees after TDC. When you looking at the flywheel which way is after TDC. Is it 15 degrees to the left of TDC or to the right of TDC?
What is causing the confusion is that for some reason Boach chose to use a spot on the Governor Weight Carrier (that is attached to the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft) to reference the timing to that does not correspond with when the Fuel is actually Injected but because the Govern Weight Carrier is connected to the Fuel Injection Pump Camsaft Bosch calculated where that Tab on the Governor Weight Carrier should be when the Engine is at 15 Degrees After Top Dead Center (after the Compresion Stroke).

It might be easier white an example. On My 84 300D if you drip time it the timing is 24 Degrees Before top Dead Center (there is no spec for drip timing yor Fuel Injection Pump).

But, if I use the the same Timing methods as you are supposed to use for timing your fuel Injection Pump. With those Methods the timing for My Fuel Injection Pump is also 15 Degrees After Top Dead Center (that is after the compression Stroke on #1).
That is so because My Fuel Injection Pump also uses that spot on the Governor Weight Carrier to reference the timing.

In Your case you are supposed to use the A&B Light, RIV Method or the Timing Locking Pin.
Or you can try Funola's Timing Tool that He made.

I don't like the idea of "Eye Balling" the Timing Tab (Yellow Arrow) in the picture because I do not think it is accurate. However, it is close enough to get the Engine Running.

In the Diagram you see the Timing/Locking in locking onto the Governor Weight Carrier inside of the Fuel Injection Pump. It works that way on My Fuel Injection Pump as it does on yours.
The A&B Light and the RIV Method also use that same High Tab on the Governor Weight to reference the timing.

Some of our Members rent out the Timing Locking Pin.
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OM606 Injection timing-fuel-injection-pump-timing-hole-jul-14.jpg   OM606 Injection timing-locking-timing-pin-pump-diagram-jul-14.jpg  
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Last edited by Diesel911; 07-16-2014 at 02:41 AM.
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  #6  
Old 07-16-2014, 02:32 PM
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OK, I understand the timing mark on the IP pump. I am still unsure about how to tell which stroke is the compression stroke.

I mean do I just turn the engine to 15 degrees and set the pump to the correct position with the locking pin? Or are the two 15 degrees positions? I do not want to set the pump out 180 degrees basically. I want to ensure that it is injecting on the compression stroke. So is there a way to tell when I am on the compression stroke or is that not important for the pump timing?

Also when I am looking at the flywheel from the top which direction is after TDC. Is it to the left or the right when looking form above? I know that these may be simple questions, but I have never timed an engine before and Just want to make sure I get it right.
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:35 PM
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15 deg after TDC and cyl #1 cam lobes pointing upwards. If the normal engine rotation is clockwise, 15 deg after TDC means 15 deg after it has past the TDC mark.
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Old 07-16-2014, 03:40 PM
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So basically I have to remove the valve cover to see where the lobe is for cylinder 1. There is not way to tell otherwise?
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  #9  
Old 07-16-2014, 03:56 PM
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I was trying to thing of an innovative way to tell if it's TDC and the only way I can think of is to loosen the number one injector and you might be able to hear air hissing out when you're on the compression stroke.

You may also be able to look into the oil fill hole to verify the cam lobes.
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  #10  
Old 07-16-2014, 06:48 PM
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If you can see the #1 lobes via the oil filler, that'd be the easiest.

Another method is a balloon in #1 glow plug or injector hole, or a water manometer via same holes.
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  #11  
Old 12-17-2014, 02:01 PM
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You can very easily see the hole in the inlet cam sprocket as it comes around to TDC it is at about 3 o'clock at TDC. I do not have a FSM for the W210. Read the procedure for cam timing and you will understand.

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