IP timing adjust (turning) tool
 

FSM 07.1-114 has a procedure and describes a special tool (with a lousy pic) that allows you to rotate the IP and adjust the timing with the engine running. Has anyone built a similar tool on their own? The tool is NLA and was expensive (around $500) when it was available.

probably just an expensive turnbuckle

They show some amazing tools in the FSM, like the hypothetical (?) cylinder liner installation tool. Some did exist, but I wonder how many dealers actually bought them. Same thing in my old Mopar FSM's, all kinds of special tools that most resourceful people can find an easy way to do without.

Looks like a big open ended spanner to me.

Looks like the spanner anchors against 2 cylinder head bolts via an adjuster. I would like to know how that plate is attached to the head bolts. Pic in FSM is useless.

Original pictures
 

Do these help?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1401913154

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1401913154

These are from the German FSM where the pictures are a bit clearer

I seen 3 show up on eBay with in the same Year but not single; always with other Tools.
I think it is expensive partly because part of it is left hand treaded or there is a Ball and Socket on one part.

I have a picture of the whole Tool Some where but all I could find is the one in the pictrue which is 1/2 of the complete tool.

The Heat Bolts fit in to the Holes and not shown there is a Clamp that clamps to the front of the Fuel Injection Pump and attaches to that slotted end to the Right of the Pic.

Either on our Forum or on Benzworked one of the Member made something that functioned the same.

When you move the Fuel Injection Pump it may be possible to tear the Gasket. If you plan to run Engine with the IP loose and use the Tool to rotate it that increases the chance of the Gasket tearing.

Those are good pics Stretch, does not show details of the piece that attaches to the head bolts but I had the right idea, I made these templates out of card board before looking at Diesel911's pic.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...604_132010.jpg


http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...604_132048.jpg

I think it is expensive because it is for a Mercedes!

OK

If you oiled both sides of the gasket you could probably slide stuff around without breaking it

I was thinking the same thing. After loosening the IP mounting bolts, spray the gasket all round with penetrating oil and let it soak a while before turning the IP. I would hate to get an oil leak after a timing adjustment and have to pull the IP. A gasket is a bad design IMO, much better if it was an o-ring.

I *think* the newer engines use orings. You could order some rubber sheet from mcmaster and cut a slippy gasket for it :)

Or just try it with that spray on Hylomar gasket sealer - stops the leaks and "might" give you a bit of lubrication for the twisting.

I thought the point of this tool was to give you a little bit more control over the positioning of the IP - I don't think lubrication is going to change much.

This special tool reminds me of a helper tool I have for adjusting belt tension on alternator belts. It is essentially an extendible stick that you wedge between the alternator and the engine block. There's a screw thread in the "stick" that makes it extend or contract.

The lube is to unstick a possibly sticky gasket so it does not tear when turning the IP. Can you look up my IP and tell me if it uses a gasket or an o-ring between IP and block?

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...602_141820.jpg

As far as I know, all iron head engines had a gasket between the pump and block, and aluminum head engines had an Oring......Rich

I'm pretty sure it is a gasket. (Especially if Rich says so)

It should be 0000748280 - this number appears to be NLA - you might (real risk here - just a guess so speak with the dealer!) get some joy with the same number but with the last four changed to 8380 - that costs about 5 euros at the dealer here in Holland.

An original part would say W. Germany, wouldn't it?

IDK. When did W. Germany start labeling stuff made there "Germany".

Reunification was is 1990.

61X uses a black papery gasket, you can see it in your picture.

To replace you need to pull the IP (not terribly hard but 500 little pieces come off first)

I'd loosen the 3 mounting bolts and spray penetrating lube on it to try and oil er up to prevent a break.

My riveted door jamb VIN tag says "MADE IN GERMANY". Maybe Daimler-Benz AG knew around 1985 that Germany will be united in the not too distant future?

I turned the cardboard templates into steel plates. :D
Now I have to scrounge around and see what I have in my scraps to weld up some kind of adjusting system. Any improvised ideas, not copying exactly what Mercedes did? I am thinking of welding in a used tie rod and possibly also the tie rod end.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...606_112441.jpg

Plan b, part torque them and then use a hammer and implement (screwdriver chisel) to tap and rotate?

Sounds like a plan - after you've cut it down to size (note threads probably don't go all the way through so cut towards the left hand thread but allow space to cut your own right hand one) I'd weld on a nut that just slides over the outer diameter of the rod so you have a way of turning the tie rod with out mole grips

Kind of what happens with out the special tool then I guess!

Tie rod end ball joint is too big to fit in space available. I have other ideas.

Why plan B? I am not done with A yet.

TheDon mentioned a turnbuckle. These are cheap and don't require a lot force to adjust. Maybe a home made 'jack bolt' / bungee setup could work??

A turnbuckle of some kind will be used. it's the only mechanism that makes sense. A tie rod is a type of turnbuckle. The one (from a W123) I was thinking of using is just too big and would require too much work to make it work.

Still searching for the "universal"
 

Hey D911, do you own this Mercedes special tool that you posted a pic of?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...es-tools-4.jpg

After studying the pic of the Mercedes tool more closely, it does not look like a turnbuckle design. There is a ball and socket that works in a pull/push configuration. The ball and socket universal is located at the right end of the hex adjuster sleeve (with normal internal threads- there is no left and right handed threads like a turnbuckle). The threaded rod is fixed to the cyl head bracket plate with a pin. Turning the adjuster hex pulls or pushes on the IP. Since the IP rotates and has to rise and fall relative to the plane of the cyl head bracket, the ball and socket universal is necessary. Do I have this right D911?

I think I am going to copy the Mercedes design after all (or a variation of it).

I have a question about the spanner part of this Mercedes special tool to anyone with intimate knowledge of this tool. I circled in red what appears to be a bolt on the spanner that is used to tighten the spanner onto the IP. Is that the way it works?

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...adjusttool.png

A Ball and Socket on one end makes sense.
I am supposed to have a small pic of the whole Tool but I have not been able to find it.

I never owned the Tool; it is a Pic I copied from eBay.

I never owned the Tool. It was sold with an A&B Lignt on Ebay so I was out bid.

I found the Picture that had the other par of the Tool but it is blurry as I had to blow it up.

Great pic find thanks! Answers my question if that's a bolt to tighten the spanner on the IP.
How much did that auction end at?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ion-tool-2.jpg

I recognize the AB light, drip tubes, instrument cluster puller?, IP adjuster, IP lock. What is the red thingy and the other thing next to it?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...s-tool-lot.jpg

That part is labled O1 in one of the Pictures in in Post #32.

I have a black one like the Read Cap and it is a Cap for the Master Cylinder for Pressure Bleeding the Brakes.

However, I suppose it could also be a Cap that fits on the Expansion Tank to pressureize the Coolant System.

The Item above and a bit to the Right of the Red Cap is a Tool to ratate the Fuel Injection Pump by hand; it slides over the Splined Drive End of the IP Camshaft.

I suppose the IP hand rotate tool is only used when the IP is on the bench?

Yes. Apparently Mercedes does not want People to use the Nut and Wrench at the End to turn the IP.

Been a while since I last worked on this. I was unable to find a suitable ball and socket joint that I can weld onto the bracket so I decided to forego it altogether. Couple of pics of it welded up/ painted and installed.

All this so I can adjust timing on the fly.

The way it is suppose to work:

0. mark IP and block with a punch

1. loosen 4 IP mounting bolts

2. start engine, let it warm up till the idle stabilizes

3. aim my RIV adapter/ timing light at the timing marks (replicates function of the digital tester AVL-873)

4. turn the bolt on IP timing adjust tool to advance timing to setting desired

5. tighten 2 of the easy to access IP mounting bolts to lock in the timing

6. shut engine off, loosen/ tighten injector line nuts to relief stress from turning the IP

7. start engine and check timing with RIV adapter/ timing light

I already loosened the 4 IP mounting bolts and will be trying this tool out soon.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...511_132941.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...511_124031.jpg

Looks like it is only good for advancing the timing, but not retarding. What will you do if the timing needs retarding?

I have not tried it yet nor got the parts needed, 2 nuts and a washer will allow a "push" to retard instead of a "pull" to advance.

I just advanced the timing 2 degrees with the tool. It worked perfectly as described above. Everything is buttoned up ready for a test drive.

I marked the IP and block with a punch before adjustment to see how much IP moved (updated the procedure above). 2 degrees was about 1/8". A little more diesel clatter now. Will see how it drives and hope mpg improves.

Cool

Thanks to you and Diedel911 for pics of the factory tool, which gave me ideas for an alternate design.

I thought injection timing on a VW IDI is a PITA to adjust. The OM617 is 10x more difficult IMO. Probably most OM617s still running never had injection timing adjusted.

Adding name and p/n of special tool to my original post

617-589-07-21-00 FUEL INJECT ADJUST TOOL - MERCEDES-BENZ

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/617/07_1-114.pdf

Still available per these 2 sites:

FUEL INJECT ADJUST TOOL | Genuine Mercedes-Benz | 617-589-07-21-00

Mercedes-Benz FUEL INJECT (617-589-07-21-00)

Hey Stretch, is the German FSM online? I can't read German but the clearer pics and diagrams can come in handy. Link please?

I've not found it online in any form of legality since the time when the Mercedes club in Germany had mistakenly given their restricted (club members only) access to everyone!

Basically - no - not easy to find - jealously guarded

Only the offerings on those download sites or the option to buy.

OK thanks for the headup.

Test drive went well other than a fuel leak in one of the injector hard lines on the IP. resetting the line nut stopped the leak. Can't say it drives any different. Time will tell if MPG improves.

Still need to clean the area around the IP and check if the IP gasket is still sealing.

It's been a few weeks since I washed the IP after advancing its timing. No oil leaks!